rjames

I just had new tires intsalled at Crappie-Tire two weeks ago. I don't trust them with much, not even the tires...they're tire jocky had them at all at 42 psi! Point here is they wanted to change my wheel bearing. I have not noticed any sounds coming out of the back however, they told me my rear-right wheel bearing will need replacement in the future. They would do it for $265 (Cdn) - parts, labour and taxes included. Not bad but they'll never touch it. I asked the service manager a few questions like if the wheel is loose, and he said he didn't know - their typical response. How would they know it needs replacement without any symptoms? Are there physical symptoms that would give them the tip-off or were they just yanking my chain again?

There's a yard near my hometown that used to have an annual sale: "all you can carry for $100." Not a bad deal for one of my neighbours who hired a body builder to drag v6 engine out the front door.

I find it hard to believe you would need a horn with the capability of an ambulance or a transport trailer! The only reason they have such loud horn is to give notice to people who are far away that they are coming through in an emergency situation. I've seen the development of quite a few road-rage incedents because of an arrogant sounding horn! Can anyone with a nasty horn substantiate this ie: do other drivers appear more angry than usual than when you drive your grandmother's car?

Thanks for pointing out that post - it looks like that's what I needed.

99 Forester - new automatic transmission last year - "S" 105,000 miles. I have issues with two interior lights. Other than changing light-bulbs in a lamp at home, I have no electrical skills whatsoever. I need some help! 1) When I turn on my lights all is fine except the console light does not go on unless I shift all the way from "Park" to "3" and then back. Would this have anything to do with the replacement of the transmission that was done about 9-months ago??? Spilled coffee from the crappy cup holder??? 2) Not that I need this right now but the seat warmer light on the toggle switch for the passenger seat does not go on. The seat will heat up but light doesn't go on. Driver seat switch and heat works fine.

Very good point. I'll give that a try before going to eBay again. When you say "hot glue gun" or "hi temperature epoxy" are you referring to the product's ability to withstand heat or the material's application must be hot???

These things aren't easy to come by for $80!!! I live in Canada where UAP wanted $468 for the ignition coil! I called the dealer, who were demanding $338. I then consulted eBay and found one in Ohio for $75 shipping included. I won the auction and paid for it on Sunday. I just found out this morning that he refunded my money because the item "was not as advertised or not in stock." Anyone know of a parts store in the US that would ship an ignition coil to Canada??? I can see a truck load of money being made in shipping high priced auto parts.

Still having a hesitation problem that's dogged me for over a year. I have not gone to the dealer as of late because I don't trust them - they had to install a new tranny that cost them $5000 - and I get the impression they intend to recover it from me in other ways. Hopefully some kind subie-guru can help me sort this out! The car: '99 Forester L with an automatic transmission. It has 145,000 km's (approximately 90,000 miles for the US folk). The symptoms: a) The car hesitates when at idle or beginning to accelerate. When driving at about 20 - 30 km/hour or more, it's not an issue. When the temperature is nice ie: 25 C (75 F for US folk) with low humidity - the hesitation decreases to almost nothing. c) When the weather is damp or humid and smoggy, the hesitation is at it's worst. The car practically crawls while accelerating from a stop. But once the car is at a driving speed all seems ok. d) CEL flashed and went out last October - dealer said they found a cylinder-3 misfire code about 1-year ago. e) CEL went on about 2-months ago - I had it check and it was a cylinder-2 misfire. What's been done over the course of the past year: a) New OEM platinum plugs and wire set by a Subaru dealer. New front O2 sensor purchased and installed by the dealer. c) Carbon deposits cleaned last October by the dealer. d) Battery checked and grounding wires tightened. e) Oil changed to synthetic. f) Sea-foam through the pcv, oil and in the gas tank (quite the show!) a month ago. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

I assume the wires are OEM - they came from the dealer. How would I check the ignitor?

Hello - My 99 Forester runs quite well however, when it is damp the idle is very rough and the car intermitantly gets "the shakes" followed by a slight drop in the the rpm. It shakes for only a second then everything is fine until it happens again. The dampness in the air is what appears to affect it, more dampness means it's going to be bad. On nice hot summer days, this still happens but few and far between. More pertanent info: I have about 140,000 km's (about 87,000 miles for the US folk) on it. About 7-months ago I had a problem with cylinder 3 misfiring. The dealer cleaned carbon of the cylinder heads, replaced an O2 sensor, changed the plugs, added a new wireset, checked filters etc, then charged me a bundle of cash and everything seemed ok after that. The rough idling became noticable in the winter. I also had a new-used transmission installed last October. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Nope! I'm too cheap to put in synthetic! Interesting piece of information though.

The oil level in my engine drops quite a bit and I'm forced to add between oil changes. I don't think the car is burning oil because it doesn't spew smoke out the back. My driveway doesn't have any oil stains. Any idea of where is this stuff going? 99 Automatic Forester L, 140,000 km.

I don't think I've noticed an audible "miss." When it starts, it turns over a number of times - more than my old '92 Maxima! Can you describe this a little more clear?

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