Equalizer

First chance to check back today. Travmo, Sorry to hear about the terrible mileage. Surprised that my 2.5 got better than your 2.2 leg. Filled up on the way there, 16mpg. Drive like grandma. Former owner of a garage that worked on hundreds of them said that the mileage was unacceptable and first thing to do is check plugs because that's easiest. I will go to advanced auto and borrow their gen II mini-reader and see if it has code pending. I don't know if it will be the right reader, because they told me that it won't show anything if the dash trouble light doesn't light up. Then again there are a number of things guys selling parts won't know that many of you forum members have more knowledge of when it comes to that. Will check that ASAP. THANKS bstone and ocei77, I will call and mention this to him. He said something about a metal something that goes over the spindle(?). I don't have my manual in front of me, but w/try to find diagram of those parts you mentioned on line after this post. Main concern is 30 day warrantee on engine and don't want to be stuck w/a 16mpg or so engine for $1000, so I will call mechanic as soon as I check parts diagram so I can see what you are talking about and not ignorant about issue. THANKS Any other opinions about the mileage, etc? EQ

Taking car back tomorrow AM for rear mainseal replacement. Swaped out 2.5 for 2.2. Wished I did it long before, but couple issues I need help on. To clarify, the new engine is not actually new, but new for this car. Came from junk yard. My '98 OB Leg. w/ 2.5 L at 200,000Mi. threw a timing belt AGAIN! Hasn't been more that 25K mi. since the last one bent valves, etc. Tensioner was suppossedly replaced. Belt was in good shape both times. This last time, since car in good shape otherwise, I decided to go w/ a used 2.2L used replacement. Engine comes from unknown source, so taking mechanics word for it having 104,000mi. on it. Job was $1000, and car is only transportation. Its leaked oil by the half quart at a time, less than 80mi. so took it back for possible oil pan gasket. Oil pan gasket replaced w/RTV, but still leaks from back side. About 2 quarts on garage floor. Once engine warms up and pull into parking space in parking lot, its drips fast and hard. Tomorrow getting rear main seal replaced once again. Told it was replaced upon installation the other week when engine dropped in, but might have messed it up. Not missing, and power is OK, but even though driving it very conservatively, the gas mileage has gone down almost 10mpg from the lousy old 200k 2.5L engine it had! My check engine light does not show code, but not sure if its hooked up. I've been without car for nearly one month while waiting for them to do this job. Glad I got it back, but NOT as is. If I ask for another engine, I'm concerned I'll end up w/ another month and no better engine than this. It runs as smooth as expected for 100+K and haven't been able to run compression test yet because my tester is the rubber plug type and don't have help to crank it over while I hold it. However, it pulls up hills and onto hwy. better than previous 2.5. Two main questions: 1. What should be checked imediately as to why gas mileage dropped so much w/2.2 L engine? I say Imediately because 30 day warantee w/ run out soon. 2. How can I know for sure, or what is easiest way to know if computer hooked up when trouble light shows no code? Thanks alot for the help. EQ

Now to think of it, my mechanic says i'm getting some pulsing in my brakes because the front rotors are worn. Can't think of why, but does anyone know for sure if I replace the rotors that the alignment might go off some?

Guess I should be grateful they've lasted this long. Not the answer I wanted, but I guess the next time will be a possible waste of $ on alignment if my strut goes in the next 6months. It just seems that the more $ and TLc goes into the car, the more incentive to keep it a long time since I won't get anything for it. Maybe I'll keep it for my great grandkids. By then it will be a classic like a '57 Chevy. muscle car w/hood scoop and boxer "porche" engine, while everyone else is driven around robotically in electric busses.

98 Leg. OB, It just turned over to 200,000mi. and had my 2.5 replaced w/ a 2.2, got 4 new tires and plan to replace exhaust, so I plan to get by on my old "muscle car" for another year or until I can buy a near new one. The back driver side strut was bad, so I replaced it. The passenger rear and front struts seem ok and don't sag or bounce. Since I got new tires, I plan to get a 4 wheel alignment soon $85. Q: Should I go ahead and buy a rear passenger side strut and install even if it seems OK? It took me a lot more time than most would take so I cringe at the thought of getting those bolts back into place, busten knuckles, praying I can finish what I started, etc. but will do it if I REALLY SHOULD. Otherwise, I'll get it aligned and put the $ toward a new exhaust system. This is my 3rd and I really love my OBs, (except for the 2.5 head gaskets and timing belts that kept failing). Hope the 2.2 solves that issue. Appreciate educated guesses from anyone who's been there done that, or at least sounds convincing.

Unibrook, The misfire code usually comes up after only a couple of miles in the morning. The second does later on. After the first set of plug wires were replaced w/a used pair, the codes didn't come up for half an hour, or so of driving. Since then, they finally replaced the wires w/new ones. First thing I'll do guys is put insulation, probably closed cell foam, taped around the plug wires. The new set of wires are too long and touch lots of metal on the body, per Gloyal's recommendation. Why foam? I just happen to have some in stock. Log1call, Would some injector cleaner in the fuel tank clear up a lean injector? I'm asking because some subie mechanics have told me conflicting things. Some say that the injectors don't/ can't get clogged. I don't know if they are too big, or what, but wondering if good cleaner w/do the job, or what will? Guys, I'll ask the mechanic monday if he can check that O2 sensor w/a voltmeter. The thing that made me wonder if this might be due to the valves is that the two valves that were replaced were hit by the piston when the belt came off. I don't mind replacing O2 sensor, etc. if that it, of course. The work that the shop did is still under warantee and I've already spent $ on unrelated stuff that wasn't under warantee. I guess the sensor will be an easy and reliable check w/out needing to buy a new one to find out. Lastly, I can't reconcile needing to buy high 93 oct. gas for now on to keep the code from showing. One mechanic said that rather than doing another head gasket job on my existing heads, that the shop replaced it w/another set of heads off of another car. He said that because the heads are different, I might need to start buying 93 gas instead of regular. Do you guys agree, or see that this makes sense? Thanks, EQ

Hi, I recently had the heads replaced on my 98 Leg. OB (ej 2.5) after the front gears on the belts broke and threw the belt. The shop replaced the heads w/used off of another car and redid two valves that were bent. It has 160,000+ mi. on it, has been well maintained, and I'd like to hold onto it until I can find full time work. Since then, its been giving a Cylinder #1 and #2 misfire code. They happen intermittantly rather than at the same time. They replaced the plugs and the wires. It continued having the same issue. Today they replaced the wires and asked me to fill up with high test 93 octane gas and bring it in monday. If it was a gas issue after the engine work, due to say.....it being replaced w/a 96 top end, wouldn't it be giving signals on the other cylinders too? There is no trend to the codes comming on. It can happen at idle, hwy speeds, or coasting down a hill. All dry weather. It doesn't smooth it out, or have any more power w/ the higher octane on top of a quarter tank. This weekend, I'll mist the coil pack and wires in the dark to see if I get arch, (or idle drop off), but it didn't before the change, so I doubt its that. I've read some long threads on #3 & 4 misfires, etc, but still haven't come to any conclusions and need some help. Any likely possibilities/suggestions? EQ

Subaru 360 and Imdew, It sounds like you guys have done this job a time or two..... Thanks again for the details! -Frank

Thanks Imdew! Is there anything special about the 95 vintage 2.2, or will any 2.2 w/automatic tranny work? Are any mods necessary, or should it just plug right in with existing hardware? Subaru 360, I was told that they used the last generation upgraded headgaskets. IMHO, even an original HG would have held up way beyond 10,000mi. Any other possibilities? Frank

Hi Guys, (and Gals), While on the hwy one day, my engine died. It looks like the bottom pully bearing (steel one) on my timing belt seized, and a plastic gear shattered, throwing my timing belt. The mechanic replaced three gears, (another one chipped), and the timing belt. Now it idles rough, so he suspects one or more valves are bent. So far there's only $100 in it for this issue. Less than 2 years ago, (under 10,000mi.), he replaced all of the engine seals, gaskets, including leaking head gaskets, clutch, and h2o pump. I check the fluid levels, and condition at every fill up and drive like a 79 yr old widow, so I don't have any reason to think that the engine overheated. The gauge has been normal. However, there's been air bubbles in the overflow coolant tank and some coolant loss, so a head must be leaking already; otherwise I might opt for a valve job, and have them all replaced. The shop has a very good reputation and has treated me, my family and friends right over the years, and I don't blame them for the issue. I'm just trying to give some history to this engine and why I'm hessitant to throw more good money at a bad motor. That said, my options seem to be: A. Buy a used, or rebuilt (low cost) EJ 2.2 L to replace the 2.5 in my heavy Legacy Outback. Since I drive like an old widow, I might be able to deal with a weaker engine on our steep hills and traffic for a while. If I go this route, what sources can you recommend and are there any changes that need made to adapt this engine? OR B. Get a rebuilt 98 2.5 L engine and hope that the new version of head gaskets hold up better than the new version head gaskets in the existing one. I've checked prices and so far can't find anything reasonable. Open to suggestions. :-\ I need a job right now, so my only option seems to be get this car repaired, or get a cheap high mileage car in need of TLC. THANKS! Frank

Update, I had the car back in today and the mechanic said that he left the gap a little on the large side since he expected them to seat in. He said that it would be better to have a little more clearance and live with the noise, than too little since the valves would stretch longer and then he'd end up having to do the job again. He said when I take the car in next week and leave it there to have the oil changed, seal up an oil leak, and replace the power steering pump (it appears to be leaking and coming down through the front cover), that he'd check the valves if they are still noisey. eq

Porcupine, It doesn't seem to matter if the engine is warmed up or cold. It sounds the same regardless. Svxpert, It was one grand. What I'm trying to find out is: The mechanic says they were in spec. It still ticks. What is normal after this job? How can this be properly evaluated to determine if he needs to redo the valve job?

Nipper, The car has 145,000mi. and seems like its leaking rather than burning all of that oil. The leak has slowed, and they told me that the seals were replaced as I requested when they did the other work. They said they want me to leave the car there so the mechanic can tighten a loose bolt. I thought that would have been done according to spec the first time. I plan to drop it off as ASAP, on a day when they don't have to keep it for the rest of the week. As for the compression check, I've got a compression gauge. The kind with the rubber nipple that presses against the cylinder after removing the plugs. Is that what you mean by vaccume gauge? I don't believe that the pvc valve was ever replaced.

Just got my 98 Leg OB w/the 2.5 engine 145,000mi. done for major maintenance: a. Head gasket job b. All seals, O-rings c. Timing belt replaced d. Valves adjusted My main concern is that it still ticks just as loud as it did before the work. It is coming from each corner of the engine during idle and low rev. At high rev I can't hear it over the other engine noise. The mechanic said he replaced 4 worn exhaust valves, but did not adjust any intake shims as they were within spec. Its gone through 2 quarts of oil over the 500 miles since the work was done. I'm taking it in the beginning of next week for an oil change and to get the leak taken care of. The shop said its leaking from under the valve cover. QUESTIONS: What kind of work are they looking at? Should I be concerned about the ticking? If so, how should it be handled? THANKS!

Good question. I dunno.:-\ Any more suggestions about the ticking? Keep in mind this occurs long after warm up period at, or near idle. I can't hear over the rest of the engine noise at higher rpms.