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subaru DR

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Posts posted by subaru DR

  1. Hi

    It is called a mirror gusset and is not too hard to replace. You need to remove the door panel. Then remove the mirror. Ther is 1 tenmm nut and 2 phillips scres to remove it. no window adjustment is usually needed. As for buying one. The dealer is probably best bet. All used ones are going to be ripped like yours

    Darin:brow:

     

     

     

    Ok, first post...as a newbie, I am looking for a little advice/feedback. I have a 96 Subaru Outback with 118k miles.....AND love it. Up to recently I put very little $$$$ into the car, but a recent trip to work I had the check engine light come on...after research and borrowing of a code reader, I identified the problem as a 325 or a "knock sensor"......1k later, (we did alot of general maintenance - fixed oil leaks, timing belt, trans flush, etc. etc) all is going great! But here is my problem...for lack of a better name, the part where your window rolls up into the rubberized sleeve by your mirror (ok, now we all now that I am not a true car guy, or I would be calling this part the correct name vs. the rubberized sleeve!)......has split. This split now allows air into the cabin and it can be quite annoying. Has anyone ever replaced this? and if so, where did you get the replacement parts?
  2. You can drive it forever without aproblem

     

    Darin

     

    Thank you for your response. The Subaru dealer says that the system is holding pressure. Yes, it does seem like it could be just about anything as I went through a similar episode with a Toyota.

     

    I guess one of my major questions should have also been, Can I do permanent damage of any kind if I keep driving it ? and am I going to brake down on the side of the road eventually, because of this code ?

    I am really glad I purchased the extended bumper to bumper warranty.

     

    Going to print your response and provide it to tech, as he is open minded and does not mind input. It cant hurt.

     

    If you come up with anything else, please feel free.

     

    Thanks,

  3. This is an easy one. All you need is a 12mm socket, an extension and a ratchet. open your hood. Look at your accelerator cable and follow it to where it hooks onto your throttle body. Look straight down next to the throttle body. On the top of the block(under the intake manifold) you will see a black barrel with a 12mm bolt in the center of it. It will have 1 wire coming off of it. This is yourr knock sensor. remove the bolt, disconnect the sensor and repaeat in reverse order. You just saved $150.00 bucks.

     

    The SUBARU DR

    Darin

     

    Can you give directions on how to change it? I don't know where the knock sensor is and so far the only slightly mechanical thing I've done is change a headlight. thanks
  4. Here is a silly question. Did you happen to find a green connector anywhere under the dash and reconnect it? This is the dealer ck connecotr and if it is connected it will make the light flash. there will be no codes because there are no problems. Ck under your ds dash and see if there is a green 2 pin connector with one wire in it. If it is connected, disconnect it and see if the light stays out.

    The Subaru DR

    Darin

     

     

     

    My 95 outback wagon's check engine light has been flashing now for months. I checked with ODB2 and it reports no errors?? Not sure if related however within 2 miles of driving from a cold start the car suddenly will act as if not running on all cylenders (barely idol, stall, not climb hills) then usually after restart, run fine?? DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHATS WRONG? any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you
  5. The other thing you may want to ck is to make sure the ground shielding of the wire has not poked into the sensor wire. If you have a shematic you can ck it at the ecu. I would go for the sensor first though. We have them go bad all the time.

    The Subaru DR

    Darin

     

    Recently replaced the head gaskets on my 97 Legacy Outback 2.5. Shortly after I am getting a check engine light w/ a knock sensor code. Thought maybe I forgot to reconnect it but found it below the throttle body in the engine valley and it was hooked up. How do I check it? Maybe just a coincedence or could I have damaged it when I pulled the engine?
  6. Well there are a couple of things you need to look at. there is a fuel tank pressure sensor on the gas tank, sometimes these go bad and tell the computer there is no fuel pressure when there is. the easiest way to ck is to see if the select monitor is reading pressure. This is where it is a little tricky. If the sensor is not reading pressure either the sensor is bad OR the tank has a leak. There is a special subaru tool that can be installed on the the tank where the cap goes. You block of all the the hoses and pressurize the tank to make sure it holds. If the tank holds presure and the sensor does not read, replace hte sensor. You are not out of the woods yet. If the sensor does read and the tank holds pressure, you need to look at the hoses or canister. These hose go from th tank to the canister and to the engine. the best way to ck these is with a smoke machine. you plug each line and blow smoke into it, you then ck for cracks in the lines. The main reason for this code is that the computer senses that for some reason it cannot hold pressure in your fuel tank. You need to find out why. There are some other things you can ck, but try these first . This code, unfortunately is a huge pain in the butt to diagnose because of the amount of hoses, solenoids and components that can affect it. If you need more help LMK

     

    The SUBARU DR.

    Darin

    Greetings everyone:

     

    2004 Outback Sedan H6 3.0 , 38,000 miles:

    I keep having my check engine light come on and it keeps reading the same code. P0457, Evap System, Gas Cap Loose or off.

    Cap is secured and turned 180 degrees after fueling up and using Premium Fuel.

    Dealer has tested fuel cap & pressure tested, replaced fuel cap, but yet to no avail, check engine light triggers at 3/4 tank.

    Though, I am not being charged for any of this by Subaru dealer, it is getting somewhat irritating, because I don't like the light being on and dropping the car off at the dealer in the morning and picking it up in the afternoon is getting old, even though the dealer is less than a mile away.

    Car has no history of check engine light coming on, then at 37,000 miles it started, after feuling up. Have used same gas station since beginning.

    If anyone has any suggestions or happens to be a Subaru Tech, your input will be greatly appreciated. I am wondering that even though it is reading this code, that maybe, it might be another area(sensor,relay) that might be triggering this code incorrectly, Or maybe their is a Subaru bulletin out as a subsequent to an original bulletin that maybe this dealer is not looking at or aware of , or just overlooking ?

    Not trying to insult anyones intelligence, just trying to solve issue.

     

    Thank you in advance.

  7. normal operating characteristic.

    Darin

     

     

     

    Hi,

    I have a 96 OB and now that finally the weather is getting cold and snowy I took my wheels out to where I might have a chance to test out how effective the AWD and ABS systems were on slippery roads.

     

    Anyhow, on slippery roads, I hit the brakes to test the functioning of the ABS. Sure enough, the system forced the brake pedal to back off preventing a lock...but the odd thing I noticed was that I could hear and feel in my foot what amounted to a grinding of gears as the system forced the pedal back. This grinding felt like it was coming from the brake system itself.

     

    Is this normal or is something amiss?

     

     

    Thanks for your input,

    Damien

  8. Subaru has a conditioner that they sell for the phase 2 2.5. we use it in the dohc engines too. It is supposed to help, not sure if it does a darn thing though.

     

    darin

     

    Hi,

    As the owner of a Sube with an EJ25 engine, naturally I'm concerned about a blown head gasket. What sorts of preventative maintenance is possible to help stave off head gasket failure?

     

    Thanks!

     

    Damien

  9. Did you try the ignition relay? It is under the dash next to the column. ck into it

    PS I have one if you need it!

    The Subaru DR

    Darin

     

     

     

    Well, thought I had it fixed. It ran two times since I fixed the timming belts, Now it won't even turn over. when I turn the Ignition on the lights slowly go from out(no dash lights) to full(dash lights on), but there is no cliking or starting. Battery is reading 12.7v, Fuses are all good...fuseable links are good...Wiggled all the wires at the fuse box, timer, ignition and junctions, starter, battery, alternator... Bad ignition? Ground out somwhere? :confused:
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