urabus1995

C'Mon Man, You can read my profile? its a Jap import 1995 Legacy Type R , at 80,000 Miles. New timing belts on collection from the dock. I have had this for a few years now, but my son "in Law" Andy lives in Japan. Check out his website . "Powervehicles.com" and all the driftin stuff that he does. check out his links.I may get you a cheap tour ?? My car is a magic example of Jap perfection, but , when it goes wrong , there is no-one near to help me. SNOW is building up now. I really need help. I just love this forum and I want to contribute to it. Thanks for replying, merry Xmas John

I am so glad to see someone happy with a 95 Legacy. YEHHHHH Such good cars are not seen here very often. Most peope drive Imprez's types. Mine is a Jap import, and has still only done 80,000 miles. It is a beautiful wagon, and handles better than its little sister (Imp), and carries all my bass gear and a drum kit to our gigs. It actually goes better with the weight in the back. I will get it fixed soon, thanks to the guys on this forum. I want to contribute some money to help make this thing work , for ever,, but dont know how to make a payment. If you know how I can do this , please let me know. glad you are happy. Happy Xmas John

Hi Again, Does this give a CEL and cause the car to cut out on low revs?

I have lost the means to send my message? There was no "send" button to click. How do I do that? john

Hi all you lovely people. Sorry if I did this the wrong way round. I did a search, first, but did not find the exact answer. I live in a backwater place in Scotland, and need some serious help. I posted this to Josh, cos he seemed to have ideas about my problem. There Josh, I did the usual "search" for this problem. I am a long way from any Subaru garage / dealer. I have had weird , intermittent speedo probs. Got CEL when it first happens. Then everything seems ok. Next thing that happens , when I brake at a junction, the engine cuts out. It will re-start and continue. When I get to work, I can leave it running on idle, and it is ok. It starts ok, and I know it could do with a new battery, but this is so so strange. Speedo stops working. Sometimes I get CEL. When I get it goin again its fine. No problem with performance etc. Just a bit worried. ANY IDEAS ?? love john

This question is really only for European members. Does anyone have first hand knowledge of performance etc. of these wagons? Are there different specs available.? Would our UK model be different from a Japanese import.? I have a freind who is wanting to buy one, second hand and has asked me for some assistance. My stepson lives in Japan, and for several years has been sending vehicles to all countries, mostly in europe. The vehicles he supplies though are more of the High spec modified race type cars for drifting and track use. He did get me an excellent Legacy for a silly price , a few years ago. I think that ,now, he is only supplying dealers in this country and so will probably not be interested in dealing with a private customer. If anyone has any experience of either a UK Model, or an import, I would love to know any opinions of these vehicles. I know there are not very many UK members on this forum, but any info would be welcome. He has found a couple , locally, but they seem to me to be very expensive, being second hand. Around £19000 for something that may be about 18 months old. I cant remember when they first appeared in the UK, but it does not seem that long ago. The new price is £22500. another thing that is a bit strange is that it is £2000 cheaper than the petrol version. thanks John

Really, do you think that could be the cause?. Why would the problem come and go like it does? Its gone perfectly for the last two days. not even a hint of vibration at all speeds. I recently had drive shaft boot replaced, the usual suspect, the one beside the CAT. Thats the 3rd I have had on there!! Maybe the axle has had enough of running out of grease? I will check further . Thanks again for your suggestions. Does no-one think this might be Electrical in nature? John

I had all my brakes renewed last year, at least the rotors and pads, not calipers.That was my first thought when this started to happen, but yesterday a couple of mins after it occurred, I had arrived at my destination. I felt each wheel hub and rotors, they were all cold. I would have thought a caliper problem would have created lots of heat and smell? That certainly was the case with my wife's Shogun when its caliper seized. It was HOT!! The thing I find strangest about it is that It goes away without me doing anything. This the kind of problem I hate. Would a misfire , an injector or a faulty sensor somewhere cause the juddering? It is quite alarming when it happens but as I say , it quickly stops and everything seems normal.I hope its not the transmission beginning to fail. ps. there is no CEL, and the engine is as quiet and smooth as the day I got it( except at 5000+revs when it just sounds beautifully growly

Hi Guys. I have been doin a search on here, and am starting to get a bit worried about my symptoms. Occasionaly, over the last few weeks. my legacy has started behaving badly. It normally happens about 5 mins of driving. It starts to vibrate/judder quite badly, and seems to lose throttle response. If I change down from 5th to 4th, I can keep up road speed, and after a minute or so of this vibration, it clears and I can proceed as normal. The first time this happened, I thought it was a bad road surface, it felt like I was driving on large stones, or ridges in the road.I stopped after a minute of this, and inspected all the tyres and brakes, thinking maybe something was binding. The car ran fine for several days, with no sign of vibration at all. Then one day last week , I had the same thing occur. Again it cleared in about a minute.Ran fine for another few days. Yesterday the same thing happened. It lasted longer this time. Its almost as if its misfiring, with the lack of power that that would cause. It idles fine, it starts first turn, and once this vibration stops, it runs as normal. From what I have read here, on my searches, it could be several things , Drive train, sensors, brakes ?? I am suspecting an electrical fault of some sort, but when I stop to check it out, the problem goes away. It is a manual shift, 2.0 litre Japanese import wagon, with about 85,000 miles on it. It has always run like a dream just as you would expect from a Subaru at this mileage. It is however, a 1995 car , I got it at only 25000 miles in 2004-5 if I remember! Is there something that might be affected by age rather than milage which could cause this problem. It ran without hassle this morning. Hope for some genius solution from you guys, you normally come up with the right ideas? John (Scotland)

I hardly ever set the heater to circulate cabin air, it just causes the screen to mist up even more than usual, cos the car seems permanently damp, because of lack of heat every day, and me trailing rain and snow into it regularly. I do try to keep as much wet stuff out of it as possible, but it is almost impossible where I live. In the summer, or on hot days (we do get one or two every year LOL), I leave the windows open to get as much air through the car in an attempt to dry it out. Nothing is letting in water that I can see. Would running the air-con cause moisture build up in the cabin? I will try re-circulating the cabin air, to see if it gets warmer by doing that, and just put the blower on to clear the winscreen when it mists up. Thanks again.

Thank you. I have never really noticed what the gauge is reading at different points on my daily trips, but I can say that any time I have looked at it, it is never quite up to mid point, however far I have travelled. I must look into doing this Flush thing. I have never changed the coolant since getting the car about 5 years ago. I presume that this probably has never been done, as the car had only done 25,000 miles when I bought it. I do get the oil changed regularly. Thanks for reminding me !! Is it important to use a particular type of flush compound? Also , is it critical what type of anti-freeze goes in this system? I know that some engines dont like certain types of chemicals. Can this be carried out without getting airlocks and circulation problems after draining and refilling the system. Does the flush go through the radiator too, or just the heater matrix?

Hi Guys and Dolls, Any opinions on this problem and my idea of a fix? My 1995 Legacy wagon has always had poor internal heat , really noticeable in our lovely Scottish winters. I travel about 12miles to work, and all through the winter the car only begins to feel warm just as I arrive at my destination.One of the results of this permanent coldness is that it always has condensation on the inside of the windscreen when the weather is cold , the whole car just feels damp.It is not losing any coolant. Being a Japanese import , I was wondering if maybe it had a different thermostat fitted for their climate? Do they vary from one country to another? Is it possible to put a higher temperature one in, and has anyone ever done this? I would welcome any opinions.

Thanks NIPPER and Dickens , you have both given me encouragement for the task in hand. This should be fun, in maybe one or two feet of snow. I now have the manuals, thanks to Leg777 , --------or is it just Joss? 32 mm long reach . + a serious hammer? mmmm well Sounds like the way I used to treat my Ferrai, Fords and all these other crap cars. I love SUBARU in all forms, they are simply the best. lots of love to you all, I will keep you all informed of the progress. John

Hi guys and dolls, i have a 1995 legacy wagon, and realised that once again , i have a split rubber boot on my drive shaft. This is the third time in two years that the same boot has gone. I realise that it is very close to the cat , and maybe the heat causes the problem. I want to do this repair myself this time , but dont know what it involves. I only have limited tools etc, -----no lift , no pit . Do I lose my gearbox oil if i remove the drive shaft? I have undertaken major repairs on various cars in the past , like clutch changes, caliper changes and lots of other things which seemed at the time , hard to do , but turned out to be easy work , once the problem was identified. maybe my repair man did not change the last boot---I did not check. If anyone has done this job, I would be really grateful for your advice. I dont want to put a two part split boot type thing on this car, I really want to do it properly. thanks to anyone who has time to reply John

Thanks IMDEW for replying. I decided, after taking some pics of inside the door, that the whole thing had to come out.it waas quite straight forward to remove the motor and the ratchet drive part of the assembly. It had sheared off the X shaped widow carrier completely.I have left the window in for the time being. I just hope that the next bit is just as simple--getting a new regulator etc. and somehow getting it all back in place. Its a 1995 Legacy TS type R japanese import, so I hope the bits I need are common to all Legacies, or I may have a long draughty wait to get parts. I also discovered that my speaker in that door was also disintegrating. All in all, it is a very easy task to remove the door panel etc, and it all just snapped back into place like a dream when i put it back on.

Hi Guys, long time no speak on here, but I do read a lot of the posts. I have been following threads on door panel removal etc, cos I have a broken window regulator. I have removed the panel, and the polythene cover, unplugged electrical connectors etc, but I dont know what to do next, since I cant see what the problem is. Has anyone removed the regulator? The teeth on the motor seem to be in perfect condition, but the matching mechanism on the regulator is not in contact with the motor at all. its just flapping about, not connected to the X shaped device that lifts the window up and down. I dont have a diagram of what this assembly should look like , and as I said I cant see what has broken. Do I have to remove the motor and the whole regulator mechanism? Does this mean I have to remove the window too? Looks very complicated , although maybe only 4 bolts to get the broken bits out. If anyone has experience of this I would be so very grateful of any advice you can give me. John

Sorry Chris, for a bit of a delay here. Just wired up my fog light today for the MOT test. External silly little thing dangles from the bottom of the back bumper, but on to an already made screwfixing. Earthed to a bolt inside the boot, via holes already there. 12 volt supply had to be run from dashboard, with switch, which I had wired from a spare fuse (5amp), in the footwell area. This is only meant to work if your headlights are on. I AM NOT SURE if this is corrrect ? The wiring just gets routed under the plastic trims around the inside of the car. easy to do, but takes time. the loom for the other things is already there. There are other ways to do this, using power feed from your rear lights instead, which ,in retrospect might have been simpler. Still needs wired to switch on the dash though. hope you get it done properly. cheers john

Hi Guys. This maybe a bit of a long shot, but worth 5 mins of your time anyway. A few weeks ago I managed to pull my rear box off the exhaust, on a rough bit of road. Whilst underneath my car, my friend who was inspecting the damage, found a neat little plastic case held by a magnet onto the chassis member. He reckoned it had been there since the car was new, as it looked like the rest of the underseal stuff. Inside the little case was a new master key !!! Maybe the previous owner had put it there, or maybe its something that Subaru do . I dont know------but it is a good idea anyway. if you get locked out your car for some reason, you have a spare key on the outside of your vehicle, beside you , not back at home, or worse , in your glove box, inside the car. It was a lucky find. Has anyone else had the same discovery ?

I have rear seat headrests in my 95 legacy wagon, but most of the time I dont have them fitted, as I find they spoil the rear view, and make the car feel very claustrophobic. I carry lots of amps and guitars around, and so am forever removing them to fold down the seats. You should be able to find them somewhwere, but I think you will just find them the same pain in the neck as I do, and end up removing them.

Now you guys have got me worried. As you can see , I have a low mileage "old Leggy". Do I really have to be thinkin about doin all that stuff? I did ask questions before about this. Is "age" a more important thing than "milelage" with scoobs? I would have thought that rubber things would be the only bits to decay with time, apart from the usual rust possbilities. Tell me the truth.Please cheers john

LOL-------I think you need to re-pack your bearings. J

Hi Steve, That sounds crazy to me. All that brake stuff , it cant be true? Surely? As far as re-packin things goes, then I can only relay this information , to you, that my personal mechanic man did that thing for me. We could not find new parts for other things during the re-build, but the new grease sorted all the bearings, CV's, Steering geoms etc. Cost a fortune in time and grease. Saved about £1200 on dealer charges though ? LOL!!!!! you think I am kiddin! No I am not. We get ripped off here in Scotland by Scooby dealers. That is why we go Japanese and private mechanics. Hee Hee John

Hiya. I too have an imported Legacy and have been hunting for "english"manuals for it too. I am so jealous!!!!!!! After I got mine sent over here, I found out about the B4RSK. It is quite some machine EH? I wish I had known about it before I bought my wagon. Lucky guy , you are. Anyway, here in UK, there is a Legacy B4 forum, as quite few people have them. I would think that someone on there will have an "english manual" for them, but maybe not for something as new as yours. I am sorry that I dont have an actual link to the forum on this machine , but it was easy to find on Google. Legacyregister.co.uk rings a bell, or maybe Legacycentral.bbs I am sure I only typed in legacyB4 RSK to find it originally. Wish you luck.-you lucky lucky man. John

Better to take the whole wheel off, not just the tire ? LOL get some IPA----------spray it into the spaces where the metals meet. get a big matchstick -----------light and BANG you have a freewheelin spare .