urban_sub

Update - Problem Solved Sorry this took so long but I just kept putting this issue off. Found that I got stiffed on the Cat. After removing the heat shield, I found the original cat was still in place and the shop just spray painted it and replaced the heat shield (much too late to take issue with the shop that did the job two years ago). A Suby Indy did some test and found the Post O2 sensor out of spec. Replaced the sensor with another Bosch one and ran for a couple months. The code has not returned so I say problem solved. Thanks everyone for the advice. I guess I could have saved $$$ if I had done some proper testing in this process. I was leaning towards a minor exhaust leak that I could not detect. Who would have thought a Bosch sensor was bad right out of the box. Well I am just Happy it is back to normal.

Thanks for all the responses. I can always depend upon the Suby community for some good feedback. Lets see how to answer: Thanks for the link OB99W. This is good. I went over it a couple of times real quick and it seems I applied all the ones for my case but I will look through it with more detail later. Log1call - I think this could be the case as all the usual fixes are not helping. But the MPG is not too off – avg 22-23 MPG. Was getting 24 before but there has been a significant change in driving conditions too (more city and less highway). My OBD scanner just has code reading and clearing features. I have to upgrade SW to get all the advanced features but I can’t afford it right now. You are scaring me but yeah that can be a possibility. ECUs are pretty expensive – right? Nipper -I had the cat changed already. Not unless the shop that did the leak check and cat change stiffed me. O2 are the exact same Bosch part number as the ones replaced. The cat is an aftermarket from the cheapest quoted shop that also said that they did a exhaust leak check. This part is the only thing I didn’t do personally. I am starting to question it now. As much time and effort I have placed on this issue I should have brought it to a reputable Suby shop and had them handle it. The Pre O2 sensor is sweeping the range about twice a second when the RPMs are steady. I thought it should be more like once every second or two. Well all this will keep me thinking for a while. If there is anything else anyone can think of let me know. I'll update as I try or retry some of the things mentioned here. Maybe first rip open the heat shield over the cat and see if they truly changed it. Thanks again.

This thread will probably be ignored since it involves the dreaded P0420. Well here's my run on this. 1996 Legacy AWD sedan with 2.2L. Approximately 150K miles and been quite well cared for. Did my searches and read up on the possible fixes to this issue (but there are so many threads on this). So I have done thus far: 1) Changed the O2 sensors (both) 2) Checked for exhaust leaks 3) Changed the Cat 4) Changed the MAF 5) Tune-up (plugs, wires and filters) 6) Injector cleaners 7) Clean throttle body internals and I still have the P0420. Voltage test of the O2 sensors show that there is allot of fluxuation on the pre Cat. This made me think the problem is either upstream or the sensor itself so I changed the sensor again and did all the engine items but no help. Lately I've been clearing the code when ever it comes up but it eventually returns within 300 miles. Any recommendation to what I should do from here? Hard to junk the car when everything else is fine. Runs great - its just that CEL lite.

Ok - that was a pathetically easy replacement. The head bolt of this 2.2L engine looks like it is in the way, but a twist of the sensor gave a little more clearance so to tilt it out. The new one went in as the old one came out. Torqued the retaining bolt to 36 ft-lbs. As I removed the electrical connector, I noticed that one of the contacts was bent a little. Maybe this was my problem in the first place and I now have a used replacement part. Oh well it wasn't a overly priced part. I'm glad the car is back in order. It seems to run a little better. I can't imagine that the signal from this sensor is directly amplified to provide spark plug juice. Ah - its probably psychological. jay

Hey, That was my question on that Wiki - nah, not really (Subaru with a V4?). Thank for all the feedback. I have more confidence in myself to replace this. Eventhough the car has 145K miles I still want to keep her alive. I know about the Chilton and that is why I questioned it here. But $1 @ garage sale sounded like a bargain to me. Guess I'm a little cheap to order the $75 CD manual. I just received the part and will probably try the replacement this weekend between all the 4th BBQs. You all have a great 4th of July celebration and I'll let you know how this went afterwards. jay

I am going to replace the CMP sensor because when I place a little pressure on it while the engine is running, it dies and won't restart. I have to play around with it a little to get the car to start again. Is this easy to change in a 96 Legacy sedan? A Chilton says to remove timing belt, cam sprocket and covers before removing the sensor. Is it really that much to do? It looks like just a retaining bolt, pull and replace. Is there a DIY that I can reference before getting my hands dirty? Jay

Just an update to my problem. After searching for a willing repair shop for two weeks, I found one. They indeed confirmed the problem was the solenoid C (they called it the transfer clutch solenoid assembly) and informed me that I caught the problem before the clutch pack burned. They mentioned that they usually get these too late and have to change both the solenoid and the clutch pack. I got my car running as before and it was about 10% the cost of what the dealers wanted to fix it for (like change out the whole transmission). I'm happy. Thanks Sanjay, nipper and both Garys for your input. The information helped me sound like I knew what I was talking about and the pics gave me a better understanding of what was going on in the trans. The shop repaired it just as Sanjay described. This message board rocks! urban_sub

Thanks for all the replies. To answer Nipper's question - The connector is just under the hood over the torque converter housing. There are two found in this area -its the one closest to the driver side. It is a 16 contact connector in a 4X4 configuration. To test solenoid C (AWD) electrically, place an ohmmeter between pins 4 and 11 on the connector half going to the transmission. Looking at the contact side of the connector and the locking tab facing up, the pin numbering will start 1 on the upper right corner going left and down. So 4 will be on the upper left corner and 11 will be the third row, second from the left. This should show 9-17 ohms if solenoid windings haven't burned or wire connection hasn't been severed. Gnuman - since I am a wasted desk jockey, I was hoping that I could find a shop that would do the repair since I don't have the necessary equipment to drop a transmission and do some bench repair. All the shops want me to rebuild the trans or install a refurb. I guess if they are going to take the trans apart and warranty their work, they minus well make sure everything works. You mentioned that this can be repaired by just removing the extension housing, I see that the rear of the trans is supported by this housing. What is to support the trans during the removal? I guess if I was to work this myself, I probably will get a used tranny or transfer assembly and trade it out. All_talk - Thanks for the pic. Wonder what are the chances the connector between the solenoid and the trans just came loose? Too bad there isn't just a little service port to get to this. If I am burning some clutch plates, Its probably behind the middle section of the tranny. Thanks everyone. I guess I'm gonna mill over this a little longer before I decide to do it myself. urban_sub

Hi - I'm new to the MB and have been reading allot about torque bind. I've gotten allot help from here and I thank you all. The AWD Legacy I have is experiencing the "braking phenomena" during tight turns. Doing the tests recommended from this forum and using some service manual information, I narrowed things down to duty solenoid C and maybe the clutch pack. Ohming the solenoid C line from the transmission connector (line 11 on connector B22) to ground, there is infinite Ohms (like no connection). I figure this can 3 things - a broken line, the connector inside the transmission had broken loose or solenoid C is truly bad. I also figure there is a possibility that the clutch pack maybe damaged by now since I have had this problem for 2 months. My problem now is finding a local repair shop that is willing to do the job. Dealership will do nothing less than to replace the whole transmission (for a price that I can't even sell the car at). Some local shops are asking cash up front and no guarantees. Are there any shops in California, San Jose area that will be willing to help me repair this? urban_sub 96 Legacy LS, 2.2L AT AWD PS - In case there are questions to the test I did, here is a list: FWD fuse - placed a fuse in and no change ATF flush - no change Flashing AT lite - hand shake with code 24 (for some reason this 96 model is not fully OBDII so there was no CEL). TCM to Trans test - all other solenoids are okay, ground feed back to TCM okay, just solenoid C has no connection. Visual external inspection of the trans seems okay, no broken electrical lines that I can find.