GregS

My original post might not be explained right. The cel should come on with all the idiot lights when you turn the key to the on position before you go to start position. (without the code connectors plugged in). Mine isn't coming on, or when it does it is just a very dim flicker while the car is in it's "failed mode". After the 45 minutes of waiting when the car will start again, the cel is on and steady like normal in the on position and then it goes away after I start the engine.

Just checked, they aren't hooked up

I posted a problem a couple weeks ago with a 90 Legecy. It was dying after 30 minutes of running and will than restart after 45 minutes consistantly. I had a code 22 and 35. Replaced both related sensors and everything seemed fine. 400 miles later, it happened again. This time, I tried to check codes on the ECU, but the check engine light was not working. with the key in the ON position, the light will flicker on very lightly for a couple seconds, and I can hear a clicking behind the dash like a relay coming in and out as the CEL goes off and on. I know there are a few relays back in that area, but are any related to the ignition system? Or is there something in the ECU that could click? I had the same reaction when I plugged the connecter up to pull the codes. After the 45 minute wait time, when the car would fire up again, the check engine light work as it should, and there are no codes. Does it sound like a possible bad ECU?

I replaced the knock sensor with the new white connector. The old one was cracked up pretty bad. I've got 100 miles, with one trip over an hour. I would consider it a SUCCESS! I replaced the purge solenoid tonight just to get rid of the code 35. Thanks for the advice. Greg

I got the codes out. I'm getting a 22 and 35. So should I go toward the Igniter again? Anyone know where I can pick one up for cheap?

Got it. Thanks, that helps me with a couple issues than.

I am getting a check engine light. I took it to a local mechanic, because I can't figure out how to get the codes to come up. He said the only code is a 35-purge solenoid. Which should not affect the ignition. Maybe a little instruction on checking that might put me in the right direction. Legacy777- I'm not finding the link to test the ECU. Hopefully I can pull up a code for a bad sensor if I can actually get them to read. Will they stay in memory, or do they actually have to be in the failed mode to throw a code? Thanks everyone for the help so far

I have a 1990 Legacy Wagon. After about 30 minutes of running it will just die. After it sits for apprx. 45 min. it will fire up and run for another 30 min. I have narrowed it to an ignition problem. Running through the tests in my Haynes manual, I connect a test light to the positive battery, and to the outer wires on the connector to the coil module. I'm not getting a signal while cranking the engine. It does check good though when the engine does run. I replaced the ignitor a while back, so I'm assuming it's good. The crank sensor is reading good resistance, so I guess it leads me to the ECM. Is there any way to check this? Where is it located on this vehicle. The manual says it is under the carpet on the passangers side floorboard, but it is not there. Another problem encountered this morning that hasn't happened in the past, was the tach started dropping to zero while driving, then it would go back up to normal and the car would lurch for a second but it felt like the engine styed running...not sure though.