Mjez

you might be right, but cutting bolts should not damage rubber bushing, and if it does then I guess I'll be looking for used/new parts:-\

I don't need lateral link, just the toe-in adjuster bolt that is mounted at one end of rear lateral link. any idea where to get them?

hi all, after a year of troublefree `95 Subaru Legacy LSi here we are again;) I was wondering if any of you know part number I need and possible source for it. I'm looking for toe-in adjuster bolt for rear suspension for above mentioned Subaru. Put new tires on the car and few months later found out that allignment is all messed up. took it for allignment and was told they can not adjust rear toe-in because the adjuster bolt is so corroded that the only way to get it off would be to heat it but because of a rubber bushing it would melt, I was also told that control arms are in such terrible condition that they would need to be replaced and that this shop could perform this job for lots of $$$$$. so I went under the car to see the condition of those really bed control arms and found a little bit of corrosion on them, but for a car from `95 with almost 150k miles almost everything is corroded especially since this car is driven in midwest. so I'm thinking that I'll just cut off those bolts on both sides, buy new once, install them and I'll take it back for allignment. but I can't find those toe-in adjuster bolts anywhere. I'm thinking dealer may be the only source, but the one I go to they ask me for part numbers every time I go there, yeah I know. so I was wondering if any of you guys could help me find those bolts. thank you all for your help Matt

I just replaced timing belt on my `95 Legacy and two weeks later it would not start. timing belt slipped couple of teeth on crankshaft due to fauly tenssioner roller as well as piece of debrie got between belt and sprockets. as I could only imagine this would greatly affect the compression readings. if I was you I would take the middle timing belt cover off of the car and make sure all the timing marks are allign. if they're not then you have your answer as to why it does not run. do the timing belt, do it right though, and you'll have a runnign car again. Matt

check out their web site http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ unfortunately I don't see any manuals for Subaru:( if anyone of you needs spare parts for a `95 Subaru let me know. I got some ignition spares. Matt

why do you say that? I thought those are noninterference motors…at least someone here said they're not...

got Haynes manual and don't like the way it's writen, prefer Bentley manuals but don't even know if they make one for Subaru. anyway, I think the reason why timing slipped was the tensioner pulley which is stuck, it will not turn in either direction. tried turning it with pipe wrench and nothing. hmmm, it seemed good when I was doing timing belt the first time. so do you guys think it would be smarter to change all of the pulleys this time? I whish it was my car then I would just go piece by piece, whatever has to be done would be replaced but this isn't my father's in law way so I'll let him decide whatever he wants to do, hopefuly I'll won't have to do another timing job on his car in the next month or so:horse:

I went to a local Sears store and used one of their vise that was on the display to compress it while my buddy was on a look out for store emplyees:lol: it took like 30 seconds to do it... you should try it sometime... hehe Matt

As we were going through all this trouble I found a post with a link somewhere here to a good website on how to do a timing belt, I remember it had like ton of pictures. If you guys know what I’m talking about could you please post it, it would be really helpful with my next project;) Matt

Ok, so here we go again. I took of the timing belt covers and guess what??? Nipper, thank you and sorry I didn’t listen to you earlier, timing belt jumped two teeth at the crank @#$%. I never thought this could be the cause because like I said before I got stuck on the idea that since both cam sprockets timing points match why would it be timing belt, oh well, I guess I was wrong. My biggest apologies for not listening to some of you. But on the other haven’t we had fun, plus didn’t we break the record for the longest thread ever??? Hahaha. I guess you could say I’m just like my dog, stubborn. All right, so now that I know what the problem is I’m really going to need your help to do it right this time. So let’s start with a list of questions. Do I need to get a new timing belt or can I use the old one? When I did timing belt on my BMW I was told not to reuse the same belt after the car was started once because it’ll snap in less than 100 miles. What’s your take on it, after all you guys are Subaru gurus. Do I need to get a new tensioner this time? If so, are we talking tensioner only, or with the tensioner pulley? What other pulleys need to be replaced? Do you recommend replacing all of them, only the once that are not spinning freely or is there a good way to inspect them. How to remove crank sprocket to install new crankshaft oil seal? I guess this is it for now. Once again thank you all for all your time and patience with me, I really appreciate your help. BTW. You can still come to Chicago for a road trip. Just don’t drive through Minnesota. They give really big speeding tickets. Don’t ask me how I knowL Matt

I'll have one running Subaru:horse: haha. I'm taking timing belt covers apart now to see if it jumped. I'll let you know in an hour or so. don't forget hot peppers and some cheese on my Subaru Matt

could someone please tell me exactly how to check codes? I need to know the color of the connectors and number of pins on them. I thought I did it before but I'm not sure i connected right connectors together. the once I did where green color and they only had one pin each (I think), plus when I did it I had check engine light rapidly flashing so I could not even make any sense of it because it was nothing else just CEL flashing really fast. I also had both fans turning and whole bunch of other stuff started making noises, sounded like bunch of relays were switching. Matt

cylinders get fuel in them and plugs are soaked in fuel when removed after cranking it with gas pedal depressed. you can also smell gasoline in the engine compartment when doing so.

in that case I have no choice to pull all of the covers off and make sure it's still in the right spot. on one hand I hope it is still in the right spot, and on the other I don't, because this would probably fix this problem...

yes I do, I just didn't have time to go to junkyard to pick one up. I'm definitely going there tomorrow to pick it up since I don't have to be at work until 1pm