Mjez

you might be right, but cutting bolts should not damage rubber bushing, and if it does then I guess I'll be looking for used/new parts:-\

I don't need lateral link, just the toe-in adjuster bolt that is mounted at one end of rear lateral link. any idea where to get them?

hi all, after a year of troublefree `95 Subaru Legacy LSi here we are again;) I was wondering if any of you know part number I need and possible source for it. I'm looking for toe-in adjuster bolt for rear suspension for above mentioned Subaru. Put new tires on the car and few months later found out that allignment is all messed up. took it for allignment and was told they can not adjust rear toe-in because the adjuster bolt is so corroded that the only way to get it off would be to heat it but because of a rubber bushing it would melt, I was also told that control arms are in such terrible condition that they would need to be replaced and that this shop could perform this job for lots of $$$$$. so I went under the car to see the condition of those really bed control arms and found a little bit of corrosion on them, but for a car from `95 with almost 150k miles almost everything is corroded especially since this car is driven in midwest. so I'm thinking that I'll just cut off those bolts on both sides, buy new once, install them and I'll take it back for allignment. but I can't find those toe-in adjuster bolts anywhere. I'm thinking dealer may be the only source, but the one I go to they ask me for part numbers every time I go there, yeah I know. so I was wondering if any of you guys could help me find those bolts. thank you all for your help Matt

I just replaced timing belt on my `95 Legacy and two weeks later it would not start. timing belt slipped couple of teeth on crankshaft due to fauly tenssioner roller as well as piece of debrie got between belt and sprockets. as I could only imagine this would greatly affect the compression readings. if I was you I would take the middle timing belt cover off of the car and make sure all the timing marks are allign. if they're not then you have your answer as to why it does not run. do the timing belt, do it right though, and you'll have a runnign car again. Matt

check out their web site http://www.bentleypublishers.com/ unfortunately I don't see any manuals for Subaru:( if anyone of you needs spare parts for a `95 Subaru let me know. I got some ignition spares. Matt

why do you say that? I thought those are noninterference motors…at least someone here said they're not...

got Haynes manual and don't like the way it's writen, prefer Bentley manuals but don't even know if they make one for Subaru. anyway, I think the reason why timing slipped was the tensioner pulley which is stuck, it will not turn in either direction. tried turning it with pipe wrench and nothing. hmmm, it seemed good when I was doing timing belt the first time. so do you guys think it would be smarter to change all of the pulleys this time? I whish it was my car then I would just go piece by piece, whatever has to be done would be replaced but this isn't my father's in law way so I'll let him decide whatever he wants to do, hopefuly I'll won't have to do another timing job on his car in the next month or so:horse:

I went to a local Sears store and used one of their vise that was on the display to compress it while my buddy was on a look out for store emplyees:lol: it took like 30 seconds to do it... you should try it sometime... hehe Matt

As we were going through all this trouble I found a post with a link somewhere here to a good website on how to do a timing belt, I remember it had like ton of pictures. If you guys know what I’m talking about could you please post it, it would be really helpful with my next project;) Matt

Ok, so here we go again. I took of the timing belt covers and guess what??? Nipper, thank you and sorry I didn’t listen to you earlier, timing belt jumped two teeth at the crank @#$%. I never thought this could be the cause because like I said before I got stuck on the idea that since both cam sprockets timing points match why would it be timing belt, oh well, I guess I was wrong. My biggest apologies for not listening to some of you. But on the other haven’t we had fun, plus didn’t we break the record for the longest thread ever??? Hahaha. I guess you could say I’m just like my dog, stubborn. All right, so now that I know what the problem is I’m really going to need your help to do it right this time. So let’s start with a list of questions. Do I need to get a new timing belt or can I use the old one? When I did timing belt on my BMW I was told not to reuse the same belt after the car was started once because it’ll snap in less than 100 miles. What’s your take on it, after all you guys are Subaru gurus. Do I need to get a new tensioner this time? If so, are we talking tensioner only, or with the tensioner pulley? What other pulleys need to be replaced? Do you recommend replacing all of them, only the once that are not spinning freely or is there a good way to inspect them. How to remove crank sprocket to install new crankshaft oil seal? I guess this is it for now. Once again thank you all for all your time and patience with me, I really appreciate your help. BTW. You can still come to Chicago for a road trip. Just don’t drive through Minnesota. They give really big speeding tickets. Don’t ask me how I knowL Matt

I'll have one running Subaru:horse: haha. I'm taking timing belt covers apart now to see if it jumped. I'll let you know in an hour or so. don't forget hot peppers and some cheese on my Subaru Matt

could someone please tell me exactly how to check codes? I need to know the color of the connectors and number of pins on them. I thought I did it before but I'm not sure i connected right connectors together. the once I did where green color and they only had one pin each (I think), plus when I did it I had check engine light rapidly flashing so I could not even make any sense of it because it was nothing else just CEL flashing really fast. I also had both fans turning and whole bunch of other stuff started making noises, sounded like bunch of relays were switching. Matt

cylinders get fuel in them and plugs are soaked in fuel when removed after cranking it with gas pedal depressed. you can also smell gasoline in the engine compartment when doing so.

in that case I have no choice to pull all of the covers off and make sure it's still in the right spot. on one hand I hope it is still in the right spot, and on the other I don't, because this would probably fix this problem...

yes I do, I just didn't have time to go to junkyard to pick one up. I'm definitely going there tomorrow to pick it up since I don't have to be at work until 1pm

no, car hasn't been left in "on" position for extended period of time without running. also, what are the chances of timign belt jumping a tooth or more and both camshaft sprokets being still allign??? because this I checked...

but would it make one side fire and not the other. if timing jumpped it would not fire at all I think, plus wouldn't the timing marks on both camshaft sprokets be out of allignment? someone please tell me this is truth, I don't really feel like doind timing belt again just to find out that this isn't the problem... Matt

does anyone have a pin-out for ECU for early production 95 Legacy, I believe it's 4 or 5 of 94 production but in newer body. also, can't I check most of sensors at ECU connector? I should get some readings, right? Matt

the very next day I think... why?

will do, but later since I'm at work now

oh no, this is 4th or 5th month of 1994 production, but somehow here in US they make it a 1995 model. doesn't make much sense to me but what do I know.

it was a main fan fuse, 20amps. I believe it's located in the middle row, second from the right when I looked at it.

Something just came to me as I was sitting at the garage looking at dead Subaru. Two or so weeks ago, few days after timing belt was replaced I took this car down to Chicago to have rear tires installed. On the way there and back home I noticed how bad the acceleration was, especially when throttle was more than 50 % open. I told about this to my father in law and he said that he noticed some jerking when pulling from dead stop, like at traffic light or stop when he gave it more gas, but not all the time, only at times. It almost felt as if the more gas I gave it the slower it wanted to go. I first thought that we needed to change the transmission fluid because it does not want to shift down, even though it felt like it wanted to, or at least supposed to shift down a gear. Now when I think about it I think that it wasn’t firing on all of the cylinders. Interestingly, the check engine light would not come on at all. Car’s acceleration was so bad that I’ll bet you I would need like close to a minute to get to 100 MPH. It took it forever to pass someone at highway speeds. How could I not remember this??? I guess that’s what happens when you drive a car like maybe once every two months. Last time I drove it before this was when we had snow on the roads and only to see how it handled. Not much traction then so maybe I didn’t noticed it back then, or maybe it didn’t have this problem. But as far as I remember it always felt sluggish to me, not as bad as the last time I drove it though. Also, remember when I said I hear high frequency clicking noise coming from back of the motor or transmission when I manually turn throttle position or press accelerator. It only does it when it’s about 1/3 way open and continues all the way until fully open. Could these two be related somehow? Time to go to bed now, this will give you and myself something to think about. Will be back tomorrow… oops… today, to find out what did everyone come up with. This almost sounds like never-ending story. Truth is that it’s sitting in my garage and taking up space. Thank you all again Matt

couple more things I don't think I told you about. this car had spark plugs replaced 2 or 3 days before it started happening, could bad spark plug cause ECU mulfanction, or something else than ECU? we're now back to the original spark plugs that came with the car. also, main fuse relay located in driver's footwell was burned. not only burned but more like melted actually. does this mean anything ??? Matt BTW. I'm not trying to produce record long post here, just want this car to start and run...

ok, here it is. resistance between pins 45-13 and pins 45-14 on original ECU is arround 1.45 Mohms. but on the other ECU I got from junkyard is close to 5 Mohms on the same pins. makes me wonder which of the two ECUs is the bad one. shouldn't those readings be the same or at least close? maybe I'll have couple of minues before I go to work tomorrow to go to junk yard and pick up cam-position-sensor. I'm really tired of this project already and I have so many other things I should be doing now... Matt