Mjez

where is it located? I'll check anything and everything now. Matt

I couldn't get any signal with my meter set at DC and then switched to AC and I was getting nice fluctuations. no digital probe involved in this measurement. will check few more things tomorrow morning and let you guys know whether I got something or not. now time for bed. night Matt

and this is how I measured it last time, I was getting signal just fine. Matt

broken taps...? where on the CPS, I took it out and saw nothing, then tested it, seems fine. what's the best method to test it besides spinning the crank and measuring its output? I found digital probe with some LCD's on it, will test the ignitor tomorrow morning and see what happens. Matt

I got Haynes manual, but don’t really like the way it’s written. Something new now, I reversed connection to the coil and the other side works just fine. So at least now I know for sure that coil pack is fine and it fires on cylinders 1-2 and also on 3-4 when the cables are reversed. I also checked connection between main harness and the connector that goes to the coil, checked out fine. So now the question is: could it be faulty ECM? Or is it possible that the ignitors in my car as well as in the one from the junkyard are faulty? I’m thinking about getting ECM from junkyard and putting it in my car to see if that’s what the problem is, but honestly I would rather try ignitor from a working car… so if you live in north suburbs of Chicago and would like to help then please drop me a line… Thanks guys Matt

I tried retrieving codes, which connector is it? I tried couple of them. When I plugged one in and turned the key, fan motors started going and it sounded like few more relays are working, then I noticed that "check engine" light was flickering so I disconnected and then connected it again but light wasn't flashing at all. going back to junk yard, I'll try get a ECM Matt

Almost forgot, what about air flow meter? Could it cause this? Or even ECM, could the ECM be bad in this car. How do I test the above??? Matt

Here we go again. Another day off spent with this d@mn car and still nothing. I’m about to start pulling my hair out… So I went to a local junk yard today and found one Legacy. I pulled ignition coil and ignitor. Came home thinking it’s over; switched coil first, started the car, NOTHING. So I switched ignitor thinking that it’ll definitely fix the problem, still nothing. I tried different combinations switching the two and nothing. Tested the cables thinking that maybe 3-4 cylinder cables got damaged somehow, still nothing. So now I’m thinking to myself what is the problem with this car… is there anything else that I should test/check. How do I do continuity test, where to connect and what, so I know for sure that the circuit is good. Also, how come I get spark on cylinders 1-2 and no spark at all on cylinders 3-4??? Somebody please help me before I go boldL Matt

Here we go again. Checked idle control valve resistance and voltage, looks fine. Vacuum hose is also attached, there’s only one hose coming from air tube, right? I disconnected coil pack again and checked voltage coming to coil pack while cranking the engine. I got 12v from the middle pin, almost 6v between middle pin and one of the side pins, and just over 8v between middle pin and the pin on the other side. Are those voltages supposed to be fluctuating as the engine is cranked, because they did not? I had same values with key turned to position 2 as well as with cranking the engine. I also checked for spark today after we pushed the car inside a garage. And interestingly enough, I get perfect spark on cylinders 1-2 and no spark at all on cylinders 3-4. Isn’t this a dual coil that supplies cylinders 1-2, and 3-4? What do you guys think about the voltages I get to the coil, do the above voltage values sound correct? If so I think that it’s definitely a bad coil that needs to be replaced. Now if it is coil, which one should I buy? Like I said before this is my father’s in law car, he needs it to go to work. And the only coil available in the area is from auto zone manufactured by wells, are they any good and reliable? Or would it be better to wait an order oem from the net, or dealer? Thanks again for all the input guys. Almost time for F1 race from Silverstone Matt

Ok, so I tested signal coming from both crankshaft as well as camshaft sensors and they seem working fine, I don’t know the exact figures but I was getting voltage fluctuations on both of those sensors. Then I took the timing belt covers to see if it became loose or of it jumped a tooth or more, looks perfect, just as I taught. I pulled one of the injectors out for peace of mind and it also looks clean. Now I have igniter in my hand and I’m trying to find on the net any schematics to see if there’s anything else I can measure on it. Thanks again for all the advice… now I’m back to work And it was suppose to be a great Saturday, I was gonna go to e34 M5 meet in Chicago. Ohhh well, at least I have some fun with my father’s in law car… Matt

BTW, didn't try to get any codes because I drained the battery while trying to start it and then checking for the spark, so I had to disconnect it and put some charge in it. thanks again Matt

what am I looking for while testing crankshaft/camshaft position sensor? just resistance? when I took it out to clean it I did test its resistance and it was showing lower resistance every time I put it close to metal object. I think I'm going to take a break now and go watch F1 qualifying for silverstone race... thanks for all the useful info. Matt

didn't use the dealer, did it myself. anyway, if timing belt came off or slipped it would just stop working then. and my car had hard time starting for few days and today it won't start at all, does not sound like timing belt has slipped to me but I'll check it anyway. how do you test crankshaft/camshaft position sensors? I tested resistance on both, it was just under 2kohms. according to manual it's within the range. what about ignitor, could this cause anything like that? Is there a good way to test one? I wanted to go to autozone to get coil and ignitor and try them both to see if any of them would fix this problem but they don't do returnes on any of their electrical purchases, and I don't feel like spending $350+ for something I will not even need. does any one know of a good subaru mechanic in north suburbs of Chicago??? few more hours and of this and I might go crazy here:confused: thanks for all comments Matt

Tensioner? you mean timing belt tensioner, no, did not replace it. talked to dealer and they said they never do unless it's bad... thanks for the info Matt

I have a `95 Subaru Legacy that does not want to start. About two weeks ago I replaced timing belt and last weekend I replaced spark plugs, car was working fine after that. But in the last couple of days I had a really hard time starting it especially when it was cooler in the morning. And today it didn’t start at all. I checked secondary resistance of the coil and it looks fine. Primary resistance is higher by about .04 ohm so I don’t think it would make a huge difference. Fuel pump works fine. Unplugged fuel line and turn the key in the ignition and it started spraying fuel. Interestingly enough after I removed spark plugs to see if there is spark I found that cylinder 1 and 2 get spark and cylinders 3 and 4 don’t get any when I crank the engine until the moment when I turn the key in the ignition back to position 2. Does any one know what could this be. Could it be ignition coil, ignitor or maybe cables…. Please help Matt

hi all, I want to change ATF fluid as well as the filter but I have a small problem deciding which filter, gasket to get. I noticed that there are two different sizes for a `95 Legacy... here's the link so you can see better what I'm talking about: http://www.bmaparts.com/epcvsoapimc.epc?cookieID=1TI17CRQS1TI17DSP8&drillid=8&subcatid=801026@@Transmission+Gasket%2FRepair+Kit&clientid=bmaparts can I find somewhere on the car which one I have? or do I need to get under the car and meassure it? also, what type and brand ATF do you recomend??? thanks a lot MJ

Hi, I will be doing brakes on my `95 Legacy and I need to ask you guys what kind of front pads should I get for my car. I emailed to BMA autoparts and they offered me Sumitomo front pads for $35. Are those pads good? I’ve never heard about this manufacturer, are those OEM replacements? I have couple of BMW and I installed Axxis Ultimate on them and I’m very happy with those but unfortunately Axxis does not make Ultimate for Subaru Legacy, just metel master I think and possibly Deluxe. Do you guys have any experience with above-mentioned pads? What would you recommend? Are Sumitomos any good? All responds appreciated. Thank you Matt

what about the timing belt pulleys and tensioner? should I chenge them too while doing timing belt? thanks again for all your help Matt

thanks a lot for all the info. I'm doing now cylinder head gasket on my '90 BMW 325i and it takes up a lot of my time but once I'll be done with it my next project will be Subaru. Do you guys know of a good source to buy parts from. I've been buying parts from BMAautoparts.com for my BMWs in the past and they also have parts for Subaru so I guess I'm gonna have to check it out. thanks for all your help Matt

Hi all, I recently bought ’95 Subaru Legacy with 2.2 l engine, car has 127k miles and I’m not sure when was the last time timing belt was changed. I called dealer and they want $450 for this job, sounds too much. I was wondering if someone here either knows a good Subaru mechanic in north Chicago suburbs area that you can recommend, or how difficult is timing belt job if I wanted to do it myself. If it’s not too complicated and I decide to do it myself what needs to be replaced and what’s the best place on the net or in Chicago area for parts. I’m kind of new with Subaru and I don’t really know much about this car so please help me with this project. So far I’ve only been working with BMWs in my garage and Subaru is totally new to me. All responses are appreciated. Thank you Matt

Hi all, I’m new here and looking for some answers about the Subaru I just purchased. Just yesterday I bought a ’95 Subaru Legacy Lsi w/ AWD and auto trans. (2.2 ltr). It seems the car took a little impact to the front but it doesn’t look as if it was damaged badly, it’s all fixed now of course. Anyway, I have few questions about this car and I was hoping that maybe you guys could help me. First, does anyone here know of a good mechanic located on far north side of Chicago? I intend to do some of the work myself but it’s always good to have some backup in the area. Second, what type of engine oil do you recommend to use with this engine? It looks like one of the previous owners put 10W30 Valvoline oil in it. Should I put same weight oil in the engine, car has 125000 miles now? Third, I noticed that auto trans fluid is yellow and I’ve never seen anything like it before. What is this stuff, how often should it be changed and where to buy it? Also, is it mineral or synthetic oil? And what about putting red line ATF in it??? This car has now 125000 miles and I saw that timing belt should be changed every 60k miles. Is there a good way to check and see if it was recently done, or do you just recommend changing it anyway? There are so many more things I want to ask but I don’t want to bore you anymore so why don’t you tell me what should I check and look for to keep this baby running. I greatly appreciate all responses, and hope to have good time here and with my new car. Thanks MJ