jts99OBW

There is a STI gauge pack that includes a boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, and oil temp gauge. For an '06 OBXT it goes in the cubby between the air vents, same place where the NAV goes. I don't know if that works for Bajas. Check with the Subaru parts folks.

Thanks JPX, lots of info. I am thinking of putting the Subaru bug deflector over the top of the clear bra in the winter for added protection and to possibly help the windshield get fewer rocks. Is there a problem with the soft-plastic bumpers on the underside of the deflector rubbing against the clear bra? On my old OBW those would eventually rub through the paint. Probably because of the dirt under the deflector that doesn't get cleaned off until you remove it.

Have you looked for other blown-HG indicators like bubbling (or smoke) in the coolant reservoir? Or carbon-like pieces floating on top of the coolant or lining the reservoir? My car ran fine, never overheated, but had both indicators. The HG wasn't blown, but it was heading that way.

Got a new Outback XT last week. Don't test drive one - then go home in a '99 OBW. Once I got back in my old car it was all over. Anyway, one of the zillion things the dealer wanted to add on was a clear bra package. I read enough here to know I wanted some sort of front end protection, but the dealer wanted way too much for it. I got it done at a tint shop for much less. I had them do the hood, fenders, mirrors, and body side mouldings (easily the part on my old car that most often contacted paint removing devices ). I asked the guy about doing the lights and he said he doesn't usually do lights with plastic lenses. He says the film won't adhere as well. Has anyone here gotten the lights done, and how did it work out? Has anyone gone to the expense of getting the bumper area done?

MAP sensor for ~50 bucks! I've got a '99 OBW and the dealer wanted close to $300! Even about $200 from internet subie parts places. I can't remember what year your car was, but if you can get them for 50 bucks new, why bother hoping that the junk yard one still works?

Yep, I'm the original owner. I got over 50K on the OEM set of Michelins. Replaced them with the same product (XW4, I think). As far as handbrake turns, I can barely get the e-brake to hold on my driveway, so I would be surprised it it could lock the wheels at speed. I notice some folks run their tires at higher pressures. Could that put less stress on the center diff?

Here's a question: How will the viscous coupler or clutch pack deal with studded snows? If the tire circumference specs are as tight as I hear you would have to stud all four wheels and probably rotate every other week. I've had the OEM tire all 80K miles and never needed studs.

I don't think I've abused the system. I have four Michelins of the same vintage. I've kept up rotation reasonably well. Once I lost some pressure in one of the rear tires and heard a strange rumbling on deceleration. When I corrected the tire pressure, the rumbling went away. An interesting note: I was looking at a 2005 Outback XT at the dealer lot. It had about 18K on the odometer. The front tires were almost to the wear bars, the back ones looked like they were new. Must of never been rotated. I brought up the issue to the salesman. His reply: We'll put on two new tires if you buy today.

Yep, I'm new here. I started looking here to see what was the trouble with my '99 OBW. It appeared a classic case of torque bind, but I have a MT. So it turns out I have a bad viscous coupling (VC). Nothing that $1100 won't fix. My question is that at about 80K miles, this seems a bit premature. I know the issues of tire size and rotation and I'll check to see if that was the cause. Any other issues that can lead to VC failure? I don't want to leave the cause unrepaired and look forward to shelling out another chunk in a few months.