mikeshoup
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Posts posted by mikeshoup
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I totally agree. I love my Subaru to death, but my Toyota was way more reliable than any Subaru I owned.
Maybe its because I've only owned 80s Subarus. Maybe a nice Legacy or Impreza is all I need.
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FWD or 4WD? Both have different ratios.
Go to:
http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/EA82/88_XT/
Download section 1, then look up the specs for your gear ratios.
Gas mileage? Who knows. Depends entirely on how you drive. Could get anywhere from 25mpg to 40mpg.
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Just buy a new oil cap. You can get 'em at most parts stores.
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I've got a $500 T-Wag too!
But its cooler than all of yours... EA81T ftw!
Mine came with a 3spd, now its a 4spd manual.
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RE the transmission mounts,
I got a brand new pair of transmission mounts from rockauto for $30.
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Coming from an 85, it *should* have hydraulic lifters.
83 was when they made the switch. 83-84 automatics have hydros, and the manuals have solid. In 85+, all were hydros.
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Happy Birthday Shawn!
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I guess you could. Just remember that the EA82 SPFI on an EA81 will run just slightly richer at WOT and perhaps idle since the EA81 flows air slightly less as efficiently as an EA82. That's the only thing I could see maybe causing problems.
But that's all a big if.
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i checked everything i know i did the timeing rite im going to check everything again but idk.
If it ran before, then you didn't do something right. Double check everything. If it comes down to it, do a compression test and make sure that engine you put in is capable of running.
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There was one day, I spotted two different RXs in Golden (could have been the same, but didn't think so) and neither were DrK's.
One was at a parking lot for the Fossil Trace golf club, and the other was driving down Ford, right in front of Coors (saw this one walking home from school)
They're starting to come out!
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Timing belts correct?
Distributor timing correct?
All the hoses are plugged correctly?
You didn't swap the fuel supply with the fuel return? (I did this once...)
So many things you unplugged, and so many things you could have forgotten to plug back in.
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I gather it's not just a simple battery disconnect?
That's what I do. Disconnect the battery, hit the brakes (the brake lights discharge any residual electricity), and wait about 30 minutes. Then I reconnect it. That will make sure the ECU doesn't remember anything.
There is an actual procedure, but I never remember what it is.
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Sure this isn't what you're seeing? One belt is plenty good, 99% of cars use just one belt for the AC
No, I know what he's talking about. With the inboard A/C compressors, the alternator belt sort of just skims over the top of the A/C compressor. Whereas the A/C belt wraps around it. The alternator belt will just slip right over it if its the only belt.
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A CAS code will show up any time the car doesn't start the first time. Ignore those codes unless the car isn't running.
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Looking good!
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Lucky! I would give a lung for a EA81 convertible. (Okay, maybe not a lung)
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Good junkyards in the Denver area are:
Colorado Auto & Parts - my fave
Pull N' Save - Kinda expensive, costs $1 to get in, usually has some good soobs though
Sidewinder - Near CCR
Western - kinda small
There's other I'm missing. Those almost have at least a few subarus.
I'm gonna try and hit up CAP tomorrow.
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OK, just to be sure of the procedure, connect the white connectors,(ign. off), turn ign. to "on", read stored trouble codes at the ECU LED, that's all. Right??
Yup.
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The platinum inside 'em is worth about $40.
There's been cases where people will steal cats right off of cars parked in the streets before.
Its really not all that profitable, but tell that to the guys stealing 'em.
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I meant the pair of white connectors. Some cars they're black, and I forget which ones.
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Pull the front covers off just to double check before you buy them. 90% chance it is the t-belts, but double check.
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It all depends where you live.............
You're in Canada, he's in Iowa. Big difference in shop costs. Most shops here in Denver charge $65/hr
Where can i find new cam case O-rings for my EA82 on Rockauto.com?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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+1
This will involve a lot of work to remove the cam carriers. You don't need to remove the radiator, but it helps. You'll need to remove the timing belts, which means tearing apart the whole front of the engine. While your there, may as well reseal the oil pump and replace the water pump, etc.
You'll need to remove the valve covers, and then pop the cam carriers off. You'll have the rockers fall off, so catch those and remember where they went.
All of this is much more difficult than simply removing the radiator.