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Thanks for the info, I might have to ask you about that later on. Right now, I'm really looking for reliability. I'm tired of either working on the rig or putting up with little annoyances. The 1988 I have right now is almost 100% except that it has a problem on long hills, it'll slow down quite a bit. I've driven similar Subarus and on the same hill, they perform MUCH better. I'm looking around for another Subaru, hopefully with in a better mechanical condition that I can just drive and not have to worry about fixing anything besides the usual (oil change, brakes, tuneup parts). Do you think the 1986 Turbo wagon would be a reliable vehicle? I'm hoping it gets better mileage than my 1988 (it gets about 22-24mpg), right now a diesel Suburban at 21mpg around town almost looks better than the Subaru. Thanks, Andre S

thanks for the info, Now one last thing, has there been any updates/upgrades to the turbo engine since 1986? ie different heads, block, etc... I haven't bought the 1986 turbo wagon yet, and I want to know if it's a good year to have or should I wait for something later like an 88 or 89. Thanks, Andre S www.vikingracing.net/andre

Bummer, does the rear end come with 3.9 or 3.7? I also have an 88 DL wagon, how hard is it to swap the tranny from the DL wagon to the turbo? From what I read all I need is to swap the tranny (bolts on to the motor) and retain the axles from dual range (bolts on to the hub). If the turbo has the 3.9 rear I don't have to swap but if it's 3.7 I need to swap to 3.9. Anything else that needs to be done? How's the D/R axle for strength against the turbo? Thanks, Andre S www.vikingracing.net/andre

Wasn't there a page in this site that has the engine options for the different years of Subarus? I'm interested in the EA81/EA82 list. I'm sure I've seen it somewhere here, it also had the horsepower and torque rating and what vehicles came with it. I'm looking at a 1986 Turbo wagon, is this MPFI or carb? It's 4wd, does it come with dual range? Thanks, Andre S www.vikingracing.net/andre

OK, I'm looking at the 1989 tech manual and I'm a little confused. I'm stuck at step number 2: - where's the idle switch (I'm supposed to make sure it's ON) - where's the test mode connector (I'm supposed to connect it) I've cut and pasted the pages I thought were relevant to a word document; please let me know if I'm missing steps. The file is located at: http://www.vikingracing.net/andre/subtiming.doc Thanks, Andre S

This is for an '88 DL wagon, SPFI. I'll get new air filter and get a different FI cleaner (I'll try Techron). I've got new plugs, wires and plug/rotor. It seems that I have no low end power, so if a plugged cat causes no top end then that doesn't seem to be it. The other day I was going 65 on the freeway and there's a slight uphill (barely noticeable, but it's .5 mile long). I had to shift down to 4th gear because I was slowing down to 45mph. Thanks for the help, Andre S

Do you have any other ideas as to what it might be? New plugs and wires, new cap and rotor (aftermarket, should I get Subaru ones?). Thanks, Andre S

Hello, I have three questions that I hope would be easy to answer for you guys: - what size speakers go in the hatch of an '87 wagon? I have a DL so it never came with any and I'd like to wire a pair back there. Is there space for speakers on the back doors too? What size are they? - How do I take off the dash? I have a couple of lights that lights up the odometer that I think is dead (can't read the odometer at night) - How do I know if the catalytic converter is plugged? The check engine light isn't on. I lose speed on a long hill, even if it's a slight hill. Going uphill can be a struggle sometimes, but sometimes it's ok. I'm only getting about 20-24mpg. Thanks, Andre S www.vikingracing.net/andre

Hello, I was wondering if you guys know what maximum angle the CV shaft can take and still rotate. We're not planning on running it an angle, but with 14" of travel on each side (8" in compression and 6" in droop), we're looking at a substantial angle (like 30-35 degrees in compression and 20-25 degrees in droop). Normal driving, the axle will be close to straight, it'll only need those angles when we're jumping or landing hard. I'm thinking if they last 250 miles, we're happy. The competition is a 100 mile enduro and a 4 hour enduro, plus tractor pull, hill climb, drag race and rock climbing. Thanks to Jason from this board (bajavwnsoobnut) we have the differential from an '83. Would any CV joint from the 80s bolt up? We don't care about the length as we'll cut/weld as needed, we just care about what years will bolt up to this differential. Also, please let me know if you guys know of anyone selling axle shafts that will fit this differential and the driveshaft that will fit this differential. Thanks a lot, Andre S PS: this is what we're building: http://psubaja.spymac.net/

Cool, when is a convenient time for me to come by and pick it up? Maybe you can also drive my car and see if it's normal for Subarus, especially if you have long hills in your area. Email me at: andreosae_AT_yahoo_DOT_com Thanks a lot! Any LSD gear sets out there? :-) wishful thinking on my part eh? Andre S

The wheel hubs are ATV hubs (the rear was part of the axle, the front is an ATV hub). I'm not sure what ATV bolt patterns they are (it's 4x144mm). We made our own front spindles. While the articulation was great, we didn't design an adequate sway bar, so there's a lot of body roll. We're going back to IRS now rather than a live axle like this one. We've done IRS in the past (H-arm w/ locating link, trailing arm, 5-link), but never done differential, even this live axle has no differential, 90 degree bevel gears out of some three wheeler that came this way. While the engine is only 10hp, we're gearing it down to around 15-20:1 or so from engine down to wheel, and that makes for 300 - 400+ft-lbs of torque. Any ideas would be great as to what to use for the CV joints/U joints. We're aiming for 12 inches of suspension travel, and in the past we've needed angles like 60 degrees total to achieve 12-14 inches of travel. Thanks, Andre S

Hello, I was wondering if you guys know of anyone who has an extra rear differential and maybe even axles to go with it. We need to get one cheap for our school project. We're building an off-road gokart to compete with other colleges. In the past we've done away with differential, but I think these little differentials would be perfect for us to use. The engine is a 10hp Briggs and we're not going over 35mph or anything. If you're interested there are some info here: http://psubaja.spymac.net/ Does anyone know how much of an angle the CVs will operate reliably? Thanks, Andre S PS: an LSD diff would be great. We just can't spend too much money on this; we don't have any sponsors.

I guess maybe what I'm experiencing is normal? It's just that the geo prizm I used to have prior to this subaru made it up that hill no problem, I can accelerate from the bottom of the hill from a stop no problem. With this subaru, it's a struggle to accelerate from a stop at the bottom of the hill. It'll accelerate, but the geo prizm did it much better. Also, sometimes the subaru would actually slow down in second gear where usually it would be ok. Thanks, Andre S

I've ran .040 gap on the plugs until yesterday, I got them to 0.050 and there's still good spark on all four cylinders, I'm trying that out. New fuel filter (<5mo), but I'll check it again just in case it's plugged. I'm getting around 25mpg; to repeat it's an 88 DL SPFI 5 speed. So it sounds like with an 84 GL it needs to be in first gear when going up the hill and then shift up. Once in a while, even in first gear I would slow down in my 88 that's why I'm thinking there might be a problem. I'm not feeling the clutch slip, but it could be I just can't tell too well with this Subaru. I felt it when I first got it because it was slipping bad and I had Richie replace and check the clutch. Thanks, Andre S

This is an intown/pavement hill, connecting two major roads. plugs are fairly new (<12 months, looks good, gapped to 0.050 with Accel super stock coil), new wires, cap and rotor are 6 months old, new alternator, good battery. What else? Could it be a slipping clutch? It sure doesn't feel like it, but I'm no expert on the subarus Thanks, Andre S

Hello, I was wondering if any of you guys are near SW Portland/Tigard/PCC Sylvania. There's this hill that I drive on that requires me shifting down to 1st gear just to be able to get up. Is this normal with an '88 EA82 SPFI wagon? location of hill: if you're on Capitol highway going towards PCC Sylvania, there's a 7-11 on your right just a few blocks from PCC. Take a right on the road just before 7-11, it's called Pomona. This street goes down hill and T off, to the right is Barbur Blvd. When I take this hill going up, I have to go down to 1st gear. 2nd gear will go up it, but it's really sluggish and it'll be near the top before I break 15mph. Here's a map to show you where the hill is: If this link is too long, look at mapquest for 5100 SW Pomona St, Portland OR http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?country=US&countryid=US&addtohistory=&searchtype=address&cat=&address=5100%20Sw%20Pomona%20St&city=Portland&state=OR&zipcode=97219%2d8669&search=Get%20Map Thanks a bunch! Andre S

Thank you both for the help. I'm not sure how to check whether it's the EGR valve itself or not. I was thinking about swapping the solenoid with the purge valve to see if the code 55 would disappear. I'll look for the sensor, someone said they thought it's the temp sensor for the intake. Not sure what else to do. I do have a little bit of problem with the performance (not sure whether it's normal or not). When going up long hills, the Soob would slow down by quite a bit (even if I was in the right gear, it has happened in second gear on a pavement hill). When starting from a stop, I'd have very little power (ie needs a lot of gas) for about a second or so. Does this mean I have some kind of problem? I'm in SW Portland, near Tigard/PCC Sylvania. Thanks again, and any help would be appreciated. I'm not a horsepower monger (drove around a few early 1960s Scout, Geo Prizm, Toyota pickups w/22R, etc), but it seems that low end power is lacking on the sub (at least once in a while). Unless it's normal for an EA82 w/5 speed. Thanks, Andre S

It's a 1988 DL wagon, EA82 SPFI, 5 speed dual range swapped in (Richie did it, excellent job!). This is my first Subaru, and I love the dual range and 25mpg. I am missing the 35mpg my old toyota corolla used to get me though (and my Jeep Cherokee's capabilities on the trail), but this Subaru is a good all around vehicle. While there is no check engine light, if I look at the LED light (on the computer I think?) it's flashing 55. I checked the vacuum lines going to the EGR valve and the solenoid and they're clear of obstruction. Is this something I should worry about. What effect, if any, plugging/removing the EGR has on the engine? I searched the forum (took me a few tries since EGR is a 3 letter word, hint for others search for "emission removal" and its derivatives ie emissions, remove, removing) and all I can find is that no effect to remove the EGR on a carbed EA82, but what about spfi? Third, if it has positive effects, what's a good way to plug the EGR and where to route the vacuum lines? Just plug it? Thanks a bunch, Andre S

Hello, First of all, I was wondering if you guys know what I need to do to check for the code 55 problem. I checked the vacuum lines to the EGR and they seem to be unplugged. Second, what effect if any plugging/removing the EGR has on the engine? I searched the forum (took me a few tries since EGR is a 3 letter word, hint for others search for "emission removal" and its derivatives ie emissions, remove, removing) and all I can find is that no effect to remove the EGR on a carbed EA82, but what about spfi? Third, if it has positive effects, what's a good way to plug the EGR and where to route the vacuum lines? Thanks a bunch, Andre S

Thanks for the info, that's what I need to know before I look at this Subaru. I've got an '88 that I've spent too much money on and still no air conditioner. I'm going to see if this '87 is in a decent shape. Thanks again, Andre S

Is it pretty easy to tell between the carb and SPFI? After owning several 60's International Scouts and other carbed vehicles, I WANT FI. Thanks Andre S

There used to be a list of what engine(s) come in what year Subarus, does anyone know where that list is at? My question is, what engine came in a 1987 wagon 4x4 5 speed dual range? Thanks, Andre S

So now I just gotta wait until I can find a turbo motor and swap it to my current D/R 5 speed. Does it make that much of a difference in torque/power? Anyone make a torquer cam for the EA82? I'm not power hungry, I'll be happy with 200ft-lbs at 1500rpm :-) or a 4:1 low range with 150ft-lbs at 1500 rpm or... Anyway, I guess I'll just need to drive this around, get familiar with it like I did with my Jeep Cherokee. Is it normal to get about 21mpg mostly in town driving? Thanks, Andre S

I think you read my message incorrectly. Originally the DL had push button, and Richie swapped in the D/R for me. Now the wagon is ALMOST exactly what I want. I just need AC and turbo. It's difficult to find a wagon with: - 5sp - dual range - AC I wanted the turbo, but I found out that it doesn't ever come with 5sp. Someday... I'm hesitant to put much bigger tires on this wagon. As it is I feel the lack of power and compensate by using the rpm. If I go to bigger tires, I'm probably going to need a clutch every few thousand miles. :-) When I have the time/money I'll have to see if I can crack apart the tranny and maybe see how I can change the ring and pinion. <sigh>... almost the perfect rig

Another thing about Richie's shop, they're pretty thorough about checking everything else in the car while working on the main problem. So far I've driven it 1500 miles and will add another 1500 in 3 days' time. After the first 1500 miles, I am confident enough it'll take me another 1500 miles.