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SubiPilot

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Everything posted by SubiPilot

  1. I'm running Amsoil 5W-30 in my 97 Legacy the noise seems less and goes away quickly on cold New England mornings. Amsoil also has a longer drain interval of 5k miles which is important for me since I average about 1100 miles per week. I ran the Amsoil 10W-30 and the noise was a bit louder at first but still went away within 5 minutes. Mal
  2. LMAO! Happy to report that 10k after replacing the radiator, cap and thermo I don't have any probs. Temp rock steady at just below half and no more CEL.
  3. UPDATE.... 100 mile test drive varying conditions... temp guage rock solid at just below half!!!!! Whoohooooo! Thanks for all the input guys!!! This is an awesome message board!!!!!! The stealership to avoid unless you want to pay top rates for unnecessary work is Colonial Subaru in Danbury CT. Thanks again! Mal
  4. UPDATE!!!! Problem fixed.... for now anyways... I then had a independent local shop install the radiator, put in a new thermostat and a new radiator cap. Replaced the coolant... tested. Voila... temp guage was rock steady at just below half on the drive home. The shop I took it too also said that there was no oil in the coolant, and that the occasional bubbles could have been caused by someone topping off the radiator and not properly venting it. At this stage I would say that the dealer I took it too originally is a definite stealership. Stealership estimate in repairing overheating and error code (P1502) - $2013 This included replacing the radiator, cap and thermo by the way....as well as new headgaskets and exhaust parts. Radiator from radiator.com $144 Local independent shop to install it and clear code, test... $309 That's $453 total.... I saved $1560 and the problem seems to be fixed. I'll get the Subi out on the road escorting on Monday and report back.
  5. I hear ya nipper... but the CT emissions is whack. Only certain approved shops have the equipment...gone are the days of your neighborhood service station being able to do an emissions test. All the equipment is directly linked to the CT DMV.
  6. thanks guys... really appreciate the input. UPDATE... I checked the coolant...no oil in the coolant. I've ordered a new radiator from radiator.com...cost me $144 delivered... saved $140 over the stealership quote. I also checked with the stealership and they were basing the head gaskets needing replacement on 2 things... 1) occasional bubbles in the coolant when hot... 2) the CEL error (which they weren't exactly sure of... possibly PO258) for cooling fan irrationality. They are not able to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant as they do not have the equipment. I have found a local shop that specializes in Subis and am taking my wagon there to have them look it over. Unfortunately I don't really have the space or tools to work on it myself. RE: the exhaust... I need the first 2 small pipes off the engine and a cat flange. The radiator was recommended since it was deemed 'unhealthy'. There are now 145k miles on my wagon.... I'll let you know what happens... should get the new radiator tomorrow and have them check it out at the indie shop. Thanks for all your input! Mal
  7. The temp needle went right up the the shaded area below the line... not above... never spewed coolant or steam. And it only did that once... most the time when getting hot it goes up about 3/4... when cruising nicely it's just below half-way. I haven't seen the bubbles in the overflow but will have to look ... also don't know the code that caused the CEL but was told that it was because the fans are having to work too hard to cool the engine... It seems rather sporadic and I seem to be able to control it some running the heater. I was shocked when I was told the head gasket is blown since there is no loss in power and other than getting warm at times it seems fine. Thanks for the tip on having the coolant checked...I'll have to do some checking around. Mal
  8. OK... picked up my subi from the stealership and got the lowdown. The diagnosis was I said earlier but with added parts needed: new exhaust parts (old corroded and cracked) $397 radiator (corroded but not leaking as of yet) $252 gaskets and misc parts make up the remainder of the parts cost $938 total. Labor was quoted at 12 hrs @ $92 = $1104 This brings the total to replace the headgaskets, exhaust flanges and radiator including labor to $2013 Timing belt has already been replaced. Not sure on the waterpump. On the drive home the temp didn't even reach the midpoint on the gauge. I obviously need to find a cheaper shop than the stealership... anyone know of any in CT? Thanks, Mal p.s. cookie I added the engine to the title.
  9. I recently had my Check Engine light come on and experienced the temp running a bit hot at speeds 45-55. Took my wagon into the stealership and was told it needed new headgaskets because while running there were bubbles in the coolant overflow tank... indicative of the exhaust leaking into the cooling system and pushing the coolant out. The remedy is said to be to replace both headgaskets and radiator. I experienced no other probs with the car except for the running hot at those speeds... no loss of power.... nothing else. Does this sound legit? Also can anyone recommend a reliable Subi shop in CT? Thanks, Mal
  10. Installed!!!! Whoohooo!!!! OK OK... after contorting myself into various positions that only a Russian gymnast should attempt... I've got the CB installed. The major problem was finding a suitable ground and my solution was staring me in the face the whole time. I connected the power to the radio fuse (don't use AM/FM while using CB) and for the ground I elected to use the seat bracket bolt. There was just no suitable screw or bolt under the dash (that I could loosen). I was also cautioned against tapping into the ground for the accessory socket since it may pick up engine noise on the CB. Soooo... When at a loss for finding a suitable ground use the seat bracket bolt... and save yourself a lot of hassle and contorting. Mal
  11. Thanks guys! Appreciate the input. I was gonna run power from the fuse block... tap into a 15A or 20A fuse there...the power lead also has a 5A glass fuse in it... (slightly big CB), and just use the accessory socket for my ground... Hoping I can get to the back of the accessory socket without having to remove the center console... any tips? Thanks, Mal
  12. ok... well I had someone else suggest to me to get the ground from the accessory socket. Anyone done this?
  13. well I attempted to install a CB in my 97 Legacy wagon... located the radio fuse... was gonna slip the positive lead in there like I have before... and ground to the frame... but couldn't find a good spot to attach the ground wire. Can anyone give me some advice on this? I'm not that knowledgable about Subi wiring and when I see all those brightly colored wires I get confused... is there a convenient way to connect the CB power and ground wires without tapping into the fuse panel? or a good location (screw) I can loosen and retighten for the ground? Is there a good tutorial on auto wiring somewhere? TIA, Mal
  14. I've done a bunch of searching for hard to find interior/trim parts and found some luck at http://www.subarupartsforyou.com good luck, Mal
  15. Thanks Jerry! I see you're from my hometown of Denver. Yes this is a great place to learn more about these awesome machines. Glad to be here. Mal
  16. Just now posting my first but I've been cruising the messages for a few days now. Great resource for Subi owners. My name is Mal and I live in CT, found Subis to be the best vehicle for my work which is oversized load escorting. Loved my 92 Legacy wagon (RIP) and now am preparing to put my second a 97 Legacy wagon out on the road. Looking forward to participating on the board.... glad to be here and thanks for this resource!!!!
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