89turbowagon

On www.craigslist.com you can sometimes find good snow tires for super cheap (locally). I got a set of 4 for 80 bucks in brand new condition for my car (185/70/r13).

I just did the head swap myself (on my ea82t) and the heads alone were 300 apiece brand new. I got them direct from subaru at what i think is a good discount as I have friend who's a parts manager of a major dealer. The 1000 is actually pretty reasonable if it includes the parts. The haynes manual for that year (I have it) doesn't address at all the timing and distributor setting for that motor, so be forwarned that you will need to either pay close attention to how it is now or have someone subaru smart around to help you get everything back together right. Whoever suggested writing everything down (and maybe even taking careful pictures) is right on. The heads for each side may also be different from each other (mine were, but it could be the turbo coolant feeds on my passenger head), so make sure you get the right parts. The 1/3 (driver) side is tricky to do with the motor in the car, but if you have two strong guys you can actually lift the motor out using your hands if you take the intake manifold and other accessories off first (just be careful).

Thanks a lot guys. I requested a quote from that site and will also find out about pads to go with the rotors. If they are REALLY expensive I might pass them up this time around, but I am still interested enough to ask. Patrick. I have a good buddy who lives on Okinawa, he's an aircraft mechanic for the US Airforce. Cool stuff!

I need new brakes. 89 GL-10 AWD turbo wagon. Is there a significant difference between going to my local auto parts place and getting the "replacement" parts or bothering to get "performance" parts? If performance ARE better, where is the best place to get them and what works best? I probably need pads and rotors for all 4 (it has been sitting for a long time and the brakes don't sound or work too good).

You guys are vultures. Awesome!

It does have the same ||| marks on the pressure plate/flywheel whatever you wanna call it that is visible through the little peeking window where the engine mounts to the torque converter. (firewall side of the engine) It is currently timed to the center of those three marks (not the 0 10 20). On mine they are not directly opposite tdc, they are 1/4-1/3 turn away (the difference being it's an automatic? I dont know). There are also marks on the main pulley? Haven't seen or used those ones, went off the flywheel. Unless there are multiple sets of the |||, I'm ok. If it needs to be timed off the main pulley than that might begin to explain my problem. Do I need to re-set things differently going off the main pulley?

I just replaced that seal on mine about a month ago. It goes flush. I'm not sure what would be pusing it back out, I didn't crack the block to see what's behind the seal. Sorry I can't be of more help. Did you try rotating the crank and/or the ring checking to see if that metal ring has a key on it that is keeping it from re-seating onto the crank? it might have a keyed notch that matches up with a certain position on the crank. I'm not completely sure, though, I haven't messed with that part.

The timing marks are three identically sized hash marks on the pressure plate, right? Are there more sets of these marks besides the marks denoting TDC and the set of three marks I have found? Do these marks exist at every 1/4 turn or something? I no longer have the car in my driveway to go roll it over and check. I'm really starting to feel retarded about this car.

Almost forgot to reply to this one. Sorry. The water and oil feeds and returns to and from the turbo both run off of the passenger side head (the problem side of the motor) as far as i know. The air feed off the compressor side of the turbo runs into the top of the intake manifold and is distributed evenly.

Sorry for the garbled post, I thought the more information the easier it might be to come up with a solution. I will try to simplify and answer all replies at once. The problem: Passenger side bank (both cylinders) are having compression readings of 50psi, vs the 120 psi found in both cylinders on the driver side. Things I know: The timing belts are dead right. Perfectly 180 opposite of each other, one up, one down, lined up on the center of the 3 hash marks about a 1/4 turn away from TDC on the flywheel. I have not checked resistance on the injectors, that is a really good idea, thanks. I do not have my own equipment to test that, and my friend who has it is using it to work today, so it might be a day or two, but that will get checked. The car has run enough since the rebuild that the residual stuff would be blown out the tailpipe by now. I am not familiar with what the HLA is. Can you give me more details about that? There is no ticking or valve noise that I can tell at idle, however, there is some sort of unidentified sound (sounds like gravel getting shaken in a tin can) that randomly occurs when car is in motion and engine is put under load at RPMs higher than 3k.

Hey all. Just joined up. I'm excited to be the owner of a 1989 gl-10 awd wagon with the ea82 turbo engine pushing a 4spd auto (not excited about the auto tranny, but I like the car). Anyways, its a great car except my mechanic friend and I can't seem to get it running right. When I picked it up (for $700), it had cracks in the heads between the valves for 3 of the 4 cylinders and someone had pulled the thermostat out and hotwired the a/c aux radiator fan into full time service (among other things). Anyways, the thing has now has new everything (pistons, heads, all of the gaskets, oil & water pump, thermostat, temp sensors, O2 sensor, radiator, numerous hoses, timing belts and tensioners, plugs, dist cap, etc), but we still can't get it running right. Figuring out the timing with the cams being opposite each other and not aligned off TDC was fun, but it's finally all timed right. Yesterday, however, the compression on the passenger-side engine bank was running LOW (50psi instead of the 120 the other side is pushing) and the car is poofing some blue smoke under acceleration. We had some fights to get a bunch of old gas out of the system, but got that solved. A buddy told me the compression problems might be from 3 things, stuck fuel injector washing out the rings, timing belt for that side skipped a notch, or the head gasket gave up on life. Today I checked the timing AGAIN, sprayed oil into the cylinders and cycled it without plugs to lube the rings and try to get them to re-seat if it was the injector. This worked for a while, but ultimately it began running like it had been when the compression check came up low on that bank. Tomorrow morning we're running another compression check and a leakdown test and possibly replacing the head gasket, but I'm curious if anyone has any ideas what else might be going on. The oil pressure gauge runs at about 55psi on the dash when cold, drops to near zero as the car warms up (which I was told was somewhat normal, but still worries me). My mechanic buddy is a genius, but isn't familiar with subarus and this one is odd. I knew next to nothing when I bought this car and have picked up a little through the project but still don't know too much. Anybody have any suggestions or ideas or anything? Sorry for the long post! I'm so incredibly frustrated with this car! 3k into it and still not running right!