charlierh2

They did a leakdown test and said that it had 90% loss or failier or whatever it is they measure. They also said it had fluctuating vacuum from about 21 inches to 16. thanks for the help

The car is a 97 legacy 2.5l. It had a cyl #2 misfire code which eventually (after being misdiagnosed as a leaking injector) led to the conclusion that it needs a valve job on that cylinder. They quoted me 950 to 1000 to do just the one side of the engine, or 1550 to do both sides. So the question is should I go the whole way, or just fix whats broken. A little history of the car. Its been in the family since about 99, has 135000 miles and gets driven inner city almost exclusively all minnesota winter, gets on the freeway more frequently in the summer. Thanks for any help. Charlie Oh and it had the head gaskets done at 113000 mile along with the timing belt and water pump etc.

There is a box in the spare tire compartment that has maybe 6 wires coming in and the stardard 4 coming out. I can take a closer look or take a picture if it would help. Thanks

Its an 05 legacy GT Wagon with a dealer installed hitch. The plug on the car was cut off somehow so i bought a new one and soldered it on. When i hooked it up i wasnt getting any power, so i checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown. I replaced it and went back to check again. Sure enough the trailer lights were on. Then i noticed that the car was off:confused:. How could that be? So my question is what would cause the trailer lights to be completely uncontrolled? And also is it likely that the damage would be caused by shorting out the wiring? It seems to me that the fuse blew to protect the system, shouldnt that protect the rest of the car? Is it possible that something was faulty when the hitch was installed? This was the first time it was used so i dont know if it ever worked. Oh and this happened while picking up a trailer in Michigan, so I had to drive back to MN through Chicago traffic with no trailer lights:banghead: Thanks Charlie

I have the same problem, but have no brake experience. Is there a good resource online or is a chiltons, etc in my near future. Thanks

i have thought about greasing it up any recommendations?

Thanks for the help. I was hoping for a solution that didnt involve dropping the headliner, i wont have time for anything like that in the next month or so. Oh well ill keep playing with it and see if something works. Thanks guys, Charlie

I tried it, and it did seem to do a great job of cleaning up the engine: faster starts, smoother revving and idle, and better throttle responce but mileage is to varied to know without running on a track or something. I'd call it a great 3 month treatment but i dont use it every tank. This was 3oz/10gal.

Hey guys hanvt had time to be on the board much lately, but Ive been having issues with my sunroof and it finaly got so bad i cant open it. The problem is that the rear edge of the sunroof is binding on the sheetmetal of the roof so it cant move down before it retracts. It will pop up fine and if I get out of the car and push on it i can get it to go down. So my question is has anyone ever adjusted one of these and if so can it be done without dropping the headliner. It looks like this problem has existed for a long time because the seal is totaly worn out. At least it doesnt leak i guess. Its a 97 legacy lsi btw, Thanks Charlie

the car is too young for that to be normal, but it does sound like a fuel delivery problem.

there 100 bucks at http://www.1stsubaruparts.com but ebay or junkyard is cheaper if you have a couple weeks to wait and see what shows up.

I thought I'd give a little update since i got the mirror installed: First of all I love having it. They make such a differece in a small car with so many trucks on the road. For the power to the unit, the sun roof turned out to be no go. When I connected both power and ground, the mirror fired up as did the sun roof motor. I did use the screw that holds up the map light/sunroof switches for the ground point. Instead I ran the power wire across the front of the head liner and tapped into the wiring for the vanity mirror in the visor. I chose not to use the backup disable feature for now, i may connect it this summer. I am very happy with the mod and the best part of it is that this mod can be completed without lifting your butt out of the drivers seat. OK, maybe I had to lean forward to put the button for the mirror on the windshield, but the wiring was all done from the drivers seat. How easy is that? Hope this helps anyone in the future. Clifnotes: Do not try use the sunroof power for accessories.

Dont ebrake slide in a legacy. The only subaru that you can do that in is an sti because it disengages the rear wheels when you pull up in the ebrake.

Ask the mechanic to take you out in another one off the lot that you pick, then when it doesnt behave the same, get a loaner and leave them your car. That might be a little over simplified. Assuming you have checked for any obstrucions around the pedal, and for the return of the pedal itself.

If its in the same car it shouldnt matter to much, suspension and brakes are whats gonna be maxed out first.