Rodney7286
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Posts posted by Rodney7286
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120K miles and it's time for struts, wondering if I would gain anything by putting on new OEM springs at the same time.
I've been digging through the site trying to find the answer. I would like a lift, but that doesn't seem to be a straight bolt on conversion.
Just looking for the opinion of experience, would i gain anything putting in new springs, or just new struts on my 11 year old springs?
thanx for your input
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i've got a 99 OBW limited with dual sunroofs, thought it was cool when i got it, but, open them both and you get oscillating, pulsating pressure waves that makes you feel like you're changing altitude on a sine wave.
i only open the front.....
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in maryland in 1976, i test drove a new subaru, in the showroom they had a brat with a 6' meyers blade mounted on it, don't know if it worked, but it looked great
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i put in a set of KYO superbeam xenon white 4500k 100/80W, i put on heavy pigtails so i wouldn't melt the stock one. i liked them, plenty of light. but one quit after about a year, i put a stock one back in and it quit in a day. i started worrying about drawing the extra wattage. so, i just put in a pair of PIAA Xtreme White Plus 65/55 = 120/110. drove back last nite and i'm really happy with them.
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i found this place
http://www.paintworldinc.com/default.aspx
but haven't gotten around to ordering yet
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Are you properly bedding in the pads on the new rotors? stoptech:
i have had the same problem with my 99 OBW, i always baby my brakes downshifting and planning my stops so i coast. i think i've been too easy on them. i've picked up a pulsing when braking and it's making me nuts. after reading the above article i went out and hammered my brakes a few times, seems to have gotten rid of a lot of the pulsing, i think it was pad deposits on the rotors. leaving tonite for reno so i'll stop taking it easy on my brakes and see what happens.
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i installed a block heater just so i don't have to listen to the piston slap when it get below 30º
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yup, rolled into the carwash and forgot the radio was on,
sucked my antenna right off at the base. i was planning on putting in a switch so it would stay down because i'm using XM radio and don't need it. well got the whole unit new in the box, just got to figure out how to get in there to replace it, and install the switch at the same time. -
mine gets lost in the sauce too, so it tinted the window, came out of ace hardware and there were three in a row, all the same color with tinted windows. i had to look at my plates to find my car. so i made decals for the back windows.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3839&d=1147036057
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problem is...that milky stuff is the result of petroleum oil reacting with water, which...creates acids which can attack bearing surfaces. i repaired a ford truck engine running on propane (cold) which had giant deep pits eaten into the bearings from this acid. synthetic oil doesn't react with the water and create these acids.
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well....wanna cover shipping? i'll give you a deal:headbang:Send some of those rust free cars over here man, I can't remember the last time I've spotted a rust free older sube with my own eyes -
Great, Thanx.
i think i can get the sedan for $100, they're asking $500 for the wagon but i think that's a bit steep. i offered 250, they didn't go for it, so i'll let them sit on it a while, i'd like to get both for 400, that's not a bad price for a toy, after i put it back together.
thank you all, again
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As long as they both have a double barrel hitachi it should fit just fine. Otherwise the intakes will have to be swapped, but in the end an EA81 is an EA81.
the wagon engine is laying in the back, i saw it has a 2bbl weber carb on it.
i was hoping the engines were the same, all i know about the sedan is it's a 109 cid engine. dealing with that one on the phone.
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What I found; 82 GL wagon,4WD, body is fair no dents or rust, 2" lift, brush bar-engine is toast, crap tires and wheels. and an 82 Sedan, front wheel drive, runs. i havn't seen the sedan.
MY QUESTIONS ARE: Are the engines the same in these two cars? What would be a bargain price for these two cars to resurrect the wagon?
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i put one on my 99 OBW, i installed it during a coolant system flush, unscrewed the plug, screwed it in and ran the wire out the front behind the licesnse plate...piece of cake. i like it because on the 18 degree mornings it gets rid of the annoying piston slap. and in about a quarter mile i have warm air.
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thanx all for the info...
just made a 120 mile round trip and it seems a bit louder, so i guess it's time to order the parts, i'm hoping i don't get it to the shop and torn down and find out i need a hub. i'm in the boonies and i don't think anyone local stocks one. oh well...just hope for the best. thank you all again
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wouldn't it also depend on the oil you are using? dino oils break down and go bad, use a good synthetic, Amsoil has a blend of synthetic designed for 7500 mile change intervals. I'm out of warranty so i use full synthetic and run it at least 15,000 miles, changing the filter at 7500. I'll run it up to 25,000 if it doesn't look extremly dirty. synthetic doesn't go bad, it just gets dirty - if it's still clean....keep going
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hi all, 99 OBW 85k. just happened to turn off the radio and heard a distinctive moan from the right rear. took my shop guy for a ride and he confirmed what i thought. wheel bearing. i just noticed it, it's not real loud. my question is...anyone have any experience with how long this thing will groan before it pukes the hub? Is it OMG the wheel's falling off, or is a couple weeks and a couple of 120 mile round trips going to kill it.
also, what's the chances of the hub being bad? i hate to order one if i don't need it, and hate to have it in the shop torn down and find out the closest one is 2 days away via ups. thanx for any info you have
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the other trick is to remeber to unplug it (don't ask)
nipper
uh huh! thought that might happen, put a light bungy cord from the cord that hooks to the hood in front of my face, helps me remember :-\
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where do u/u guys find Valvoline SynPower gear oil. I cant find it anywhere, and the instant oil change shop will only install it (not sell it).
i use Amsoil, they were the first, have been around for years, they have great products and several grades of gear oil as well as engine oil and they ship right to your door in a day or two. http://www.amsoil.com
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thats why frequent oil changes are needed even more so on cars that see low annual mileage.
nipper
true...if you are using petro oil, it reacts with water, and evaporates. and goes bad just sitting, which is why they give a time interval to change dino oil regardless of mileage
synthetic doesn't have these problems, hence the longer drain intervals, and no problem with just sitting and not driving
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that white junk is caused when petroleum oils react with water, that can create acids that eat bearing surfaces.
saw a great example inside an engine running on propane, it never got hot enough to burn off the water. big pits on the mains and rods where the acid ate into them....
use sythentic oil, it doesn't react with the moisture and cause these acids
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i just stuck mine on the dash, in the middle up near the windshield, then tucked the wire in next to W\S down the side of dash and behind glove box.
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At the chain control "stop" points, I was occaisionally asked to actually open up and show the chains. By occaisionally I mean maybe once a year, every time in California (they're really anal there).
every time i've been stopped at the checkpoints i told them i had AWD and they let me go....I was driving an ACCORD, they might be anal here but not real bright...
haven't been ask since i got my outback
99 OBW New Springs W/Struts or Not?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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thanx...that's kinda what i thought, no noticeable sagging. i just tend to overfix things.