dtate

So far it sounds like it maybe easily checked out. When she is back home, I will take a look at the valve. Thanks for the suggestions & anyother comments will be appreciated!

Okay, so I quess it is reassuring to know that the suggestion was not off base. So, while revving the engine I should be able to hear a clicking sound as the EGR valve engauges. I may give that a try. The car is driven about 250 miles or so a week, she is student teaching, so she will have run the treated batch of gas through the car this week. When she comes home next weekend, I will see if I can hear the EGR valve. If she has no problem with it this week, should I go ahead and disconnect the battery to reset the CPU and clear the codes, or not worry about it?

Hi all, Last week my daughter's 97 OBS check engine light came on and she had the folks at Autozone read the code for her. It was PO400 emission air recirclation fault. They told her that mosture in the system may have caused the code & to try some gas treatment in the fuel & see if that will keep the code from coming back. I have looked at the threads concerning this code & it looks like the problem could be in the vacumn hoses or the EGR valve. Since having the code read, she has driven the car aout 100 miles without a repeat of the code. I have visually inspected the vacumn hoses & they look Okay. Two questions, does the Autozone idea of fuel tratment seem like a likely fix, or is this a good sign that I will be needing to have a pro look at the hoses & check out the EGR valve? Any comments & suggestion are most welcomed! Thanks dtate

Okay, I hope this will be my final post in this thread. I returned to the dealer this morning, the tech. pulled a code for the Knock Sensor, and recommended that I replace the sensor. So, I did so, and the car seems to be running fine. Additionally, I contacted the shop that installed the first MAF meter & I was told to bring the faulty meter to them with a copy of my receipt for the MAF meter from the dealer & he will refund me for the faulty one. So, hopefully I am done with this problem.

I picked the car up this afternoon, they replaced the MAF meter with a new one, I had them to save the one that they replaced. IT looks like it is a remanufactered MAF meter, and that the square cover had been removed and siliconed back into place. I will be taking it back to the guy that installed it last week. Anyway, on the drive home, the car runs fine, but the check engine comes back on! So, I plan to take it back in the morning and get the codes read & see what is going on now.

That is what I am beginning to suspect. I had the car towed to the local dealer, they will be looking at this morning. I am going to request that they save any parts that they replace. THe guy that worked on the car last week, charged $247.00 for the MAF sensor that he installed. I am kicking myself that I didn't look under the hood & checked out his work before leaving the shop. Thanks for the input, and I will let you know about the outcome of this.

I was just poking around under the hood, looking at the work done by the mechanic (this work was not done at a dealer, but by the mechanic with the tow service that towed the car in on Friday, last week). The throttle control sensor was a subbie part, that I picked up at the dealership, but the new MAF sensor was one that he ordered. The MAF has a housing with a 2 inch square cover/top & that top is sealed around the casing with a bead of silicone. The silicone has pulled away from the casing, causing a crack in the seal for about a quarter of the casing. The cover can oved by pressing it with my finger. Could this be an area where addional air flow is occuring, causing the MAF to fault out & shut down the engine? I may try to reseal with more silicone & see what happens.

Okay, this morning I drove the car into town & while driving at 35mph, 2200rpm, the car cuts off. I put it into N, & restart the engine, it cranks right up & then stalls out again. I restart, it fires right up, & this time the check engine lights comes on & stays on. I pull into a Advance Auto, ask to borrow their code reader, but it would not work. The guy there said the reader was old & not a realible one. So, drove the car to the grocery store, park it for about 50 minutes while shopping, return and started it. Check engine light is out & it is running fine. This time this all occurred without the AC running. I will be taking it to the dealer on Monday. I have a couple of questions, is it possible that there is a short to the CPU & when it loses power then the engine shuts down? Or is there a sensor that might be losing conductivity with the rest of the system, causing the engine to shut down?

When I have the car idling & in park with the AC on, it seems like the idle speed goes up when the condensor cycles on, but not alot. While driving, the RPM's were around 2200, speed around 45-50mph, and the car was not under any undo strain( like going uphill) when the car died. It does seem like the car is idling speed is a little lower than it was before I had the throttle control sensor & MAF sensor replaced. If it is the idling speed, is this something that can be verified & fixed?

Hi all, I posted a few days ago about my 97 OBS (227K) & the stall out problem I am having. This problem is occurring after I have replaced coil, wires, MAF sensor & Throttle control sensor. The car runs fine except for when the AC is on. Three times, while running the AC the car has stopped running. All of the dashboard warning lights will light up, with the brake warning lighting first. As soon as I put the car in N or P, I an start it up & it runs with no problem. With the car parked, the AC seems to run fine, it cycles through the condensor running on & off with no effect. One time, after the car stalled, when I cranked it up, the AT warning started flashing for 10 seconds or so, and then it stopped. I hope to take it to the local Subbie dealer in the morning. But, does anyone here have any ideas?

The plugs were replaced at 217k, but we did pull the plug on cylinder 2 & replaced it with a new one. Thanks for the heads up about the plug wires, I will take that under consideration. I am going to try some gas treatment when I fill up. Also, is it possible that the idle may be set too low, and if so, is there a way to adjust the idle speed? Thanks

Hi all, Last week my 97 OBS (227k)had the check engine light to come on, and it started running very rough, & with no power. When I had the codes read, it showed a MAF sensor malfunction, & missing on 1 &2 cylinders. IN addition to replacing the MAF sensor, I replaced the coil, plug wires, & the throttle position control sensor(the body on it was crack). I picked up the car from the shop yesterday and the car ran fine. Today, the engine seemed to stumble or missed twice at road speed (2800rpm) and then continues to run okay. But, once, at a stoplight, the engine died, but the car cranked right up and continued to run okay. The check engine light has not come back on. Any thoughts on if there is something else going on with the car that might make it do this?

The suggestion about the relay sounds good. I will try to locate the relay for the switch & see if it is a loose connection. When I had it at the dealership, I am not sure what was done, but they could not locate the problem.

The blower will stop working, and will remain off until the car hits a rough patch of pavement & then it will start working. It will blow for 2 days - 5 weeks & then will stop again. When it is working, it will blow on all of the settings from low to high. Sometimes when it stops & starts, it is completely random, no jarring of the car is needed to make it stop or start. If it is a blower relay, is this something that is easy to repair?

I have a 97 OBS that has had a short in the climate control fan for the last several months. I have taken it to the local dealership & of course while they were looking at it, the short would not occur, so they could not find it. The problem comes & goes. Any suggestions as to how I might find this & resolve the problem? Thanks

Hi all, My daughter is driving my 97 OBS while at college, and she called me tonight to report that the climate control fan is not working all of the time. The past three days she has driven the car, and the fan seems to work every once in awhile. It sounds like there might be a short, since she has had it to blow air once or twice. I am going to have her bring the car to my this weekend so that I can check it out. Has anyone else had to deal with this, and if so, any suggestions about this. Thanks in advance, DTate

Tranny mount? Is this something that can easily be replace? Or is it reelly something that I should not worry about?

I have a 97 OBS with 193,000 miles on it. The AET fluid have been change every 60,000 miles by the local dealer, & it has recently start a car vibration when it is shifted into gear. Shifting is smooth, there is no hesitation or problems other than a noticable vibration,(items in the door storage area will rattle together, & a slightly noticable pull on the engine) when I shiftout of park into any gear. When the shifter is at p. or n, there is no vibration. My daughter is now driving the car while at college, so hopefully the car will not be subjected to high mileage use for the next year or so. Any thoughts or advice?? Thanks

I have thought about if an engine block heater would help. I know when I park my 97OBS in the basement garage where the temps are normally 30-45 degrees rather than 10-20 degrees outside, that the piston slap is not as bad. I would be interested in seeing a post from someone that has had experience with an engine block heater.

Subie Gal, Thanks for the info, very easy to understand and do!!! dtate

I need to adjust the hood latch on my 97 OBS, and in order to do that I need to remove the front grill. If anyone has any info, advice, etc. on doing this, please share with me. Thanks, dtate

I have a 97 OBS with a 2.2l, automatic with 139,000 miles. Other than piston slap, engine seems go to go.

I have a 97 OBS (139,000 miles on the clock), and tonight while chaecking the oil I noticed that the hood latch is not snugging up the hood completely. It seems that the latch is engaging, I cannot pull the hood up to the point where the safety latch is all that is holding the hood, but the hood has about a 1/8-1/4 inch play in it while the main latch is holding it. I know this isn't normal, but I cannot find a reason for this to be occurring. THe latch and the hood seems to look ok, no noticable areas that are not inline, so I am at a lost. Any suggestions are welcome!!! David