2X2KOB

And you can use folded hunks of cardboard for sharp edge strap protectors, maybe 2 or 3 thick, works fine.

Mine does the same thing. It's pretty far down the fixit list.

On a 2000 Outback, I would, if it was just a sheet or two of 3/4", 3 or 4 sheets of 1/2". If the distance was short and I could keep it under 35 mph or so. Probably cut a couple 48" lengths of 2x4 to use as extra crossbars and strap it down good. You can run those straps through the interior, too. I'm used to hauling my canoe around on top of the Outback though. I think the sticker on that roof rack says not to exceed 100 pounds or something like that. I had a 1984 Subaru wagon when I started building the house, and I made a permanently installed 48" wide wood roof rack for it out of oak 2x4s, lag bolted up through the roof. They dinged me on trade-in for that a little bit. But it would haul 16 12 foot 2x12s. Drove funny though.

The US spec year 2000 Outback four cylinder 2.5 engines (3 of them) that I have seen have steel ones with sharp edges. Not sure what engine you have.

Is there a common cause for all these bad rod bearings? Is it normal age and wear, or something else? The question goes to prevention... Thanks Mark

OK, thanks!

The 4EAT trans in my 2000 OBW (261k) seems to be working OK. What do you think of using Trans-X as a sort of preventive measure? If I can head off any potential problems, I'd like to do that. I have been doing a partial trans fluid change by draining the four quarts in the pan and replacing it with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF about every 10,000 miles, which I think should help the health of the trans.

PM me with your email address, I'll send you some info on how to do this. What kind of a car do you have?

MWE is here: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/ Highly recommended. Not sure about just replacing boots. I have always just replaced the whole axle. Well, actually, 20 years ago I tried replacing just boots a few times, never seemed to work out too well. I think once you get road crud in there the joint is going to eat itself unless it's completely dis-assembled and cleaned right.

Air/Fuel ratio sensor? What is this thing, and where does it live? Is that the real name for it? Is it in the intake air stream, or the exhaust?

Best bet: Change your front O2 sensor. Then see what happens. If your cat was damaged five years ago, you would have seen evidence of it long ago.

One of these would do the trick - Don't need an expensive one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94169 http://www.autozone.com/R,1769679/store,332/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm I have the one from Autozone, I use it all the time.

Buy a code scanner so you can reset it yourself. You can go years this way.

PM me your real email address, I'll send you the brake bleeding procedure PDF. It does take two people.

Looks like on the rear, the spline shaft stub is part of the CV axle. There's no roll pin to drive out like the front has. Here's a drawing from the FSM hosted on Imageshack: