paulivan

A search did't turn up much info for testing cruise control system. Does anyone know the procedure for checking the cruise system? How about just checking the pump/actuator part? I get no action from the cruise at all except light on at the switch. Do I need an electronic test code reader? Thanks.

Chilton says: 65-71 for 1.2L 30-33 for 1.6L 51-55 all other engines. I guess I'll torque to 51-55. Thanks. PT

Does anyone know the torque specs for the four driveplate bolts in 96' 2.5L? Chilton seems to say 51-55 but does not say for 2.5L specifically. I've had a bunch of problems because of Chilton errors and just want to be sure I don't break a bolt in the flywheel. Thanks, PT

Well thats a bummer. All my bolts are the same size though. I found a diagram in chilton that showed 7.0 ft.lbs for all bolts labeled T1 which was all the cam cap bolts. I went and torqued all to 7.0 ftlbs. Maybe I'll tighten up the middle and center a bit or go all the way up to 14 again on these and hope for the best? Thanks for the info.

I'm having same problem on 2.5L DOHC. Shearing new bolts at 14.5 ft.lbs. What was your solution or did you continue with success at 14.5 ft.lbs. I'm backing off to 10 ft.lbs because I'm tired of extracting broken bolts...3 sheared. PT

Help! I'm putting everything back together after a head gasket change on a 96' 2.5L. Bolting on Camshaft Caps and sheared a couple of bolts. They looked a little bit coroded at the top of the threads so I bought a new set of bolts from Subaru. Now bolting up again I have sheared two of the new bolts (and stripped a couple threads). I am torquing to 14 ft lbs (168 in.lbs.) I checked my torque wrench and it is good. I am now backing off to 10 ft.lbs. Is this o.k? Has anyone else had this problem? What is up with Subaru bolts not withstanding specified torque? Do I have the correct torque spec for these? Thanks, PT

Thanks. No apparent leaks. 110,000 on car. I saw the scary threads about torque converter and now thinking I'll just leave well enough alone. Thanks.

Thanks. No apparent leaks. 110,000 on car. I saw the scary threads about torque converter and now thinking I'll just leave well enough alone. Thanks.

Engine seems to start up and run just fine although I do have an internal head gasket leak now.

Good news. Yeah, I was wondering how you could retorque the heads anyway without taking the Cams off again! I need a better manual! thanks, PT

Going up a hill the engine cut off all of a sudden. I looked at temp gauge and it was redlined. What causes engine to shut down during overheating? Is this an engineered response? Thanks, PT

Could the Chilton manual for 96 Subaru Leg/Outback have an incorrect head bolt torque sequence? I followed the Chilton procedure during H.G. repair. Then looking through USMB found link to factory torque sequence and they are different in that they number the 6 bolds differently. Yet they have same procedure sequence. Which means one of them is not correct! Chilton says: 1 Top Right. 2 Bottom Left. 3 Bottom Right. 4 Top Left. 5 Top Middle 6 Bottom Middle Link from USMB post says: 1 Top Middle 2 Bottom Middle 3 Top Left 4 Bottom Right 5 Top Right 6 Bottom Left Both follow same sequence in procedure text so I won't type that. Which one is correct? If I back off the bolts to retorque will the gasket be damaged? Thanks, PT

Hi 96' 2.5L engine is out for head gasket repair. Should I change torque converter seal? How long would this take and how much pain for a backyard mechanic? Any other non engine related stuff that should be done while engine is out? Thanks, PT

My stripped thread was in the #3 intake valve cam shaft cap, lower bolt.

Thanks everyone. I got the bolt out with a craftsman extractor set no problems so did not pull the head. A mechanical engineer friend of mine said the bolts probably started coroding because of steam from a leaking head gasket so maybe my blown gasket was a long time coming. He also said I should not have re-used the head bolts but since it's all bolted up to just carry on and more than likely it will be fine. I'm thinking about playing it safe and changing them out while I still have a chance. Especially since I already torqued them twice now due to an apparent error in the Chilton manual. They give a different numerical sequence than the factory (posting found on USMB) for the same text instructions. I backed off the bolts to change sequence to factory specs. Chilton calls #1 Top R., #2 bottom L., #3 bottom R., #4 top L., #5 top middle , #6 bottom middle. The factory goes: Top Middle, Bottom Middle, Top L., Bottom R., Bottom L., Top R. Could I have damaged the gaskets by using the wrong torque sequence and retuorquing with different sequence? thanks.

So just to clarify this. You are sying that even if the engine has not been fired up yet and the gaskets were only bolted up for a day in the shop I need to get new gaskets? PT

1996 2.5L. When bolting on the cam shaft caps I first stripped one hole before reaching 14.4 lbs. Fixed that no problem with heli coil. Back to bolting cam on again and sheared a bolt in another hole, also felt like I stripped another thread but not sure yet. Has anyone got one of these 6mm bolts out with an easy out? Should I take it to a machine shop or try to get it out myself with the heads bolted? That's my preference but I don't want to do any more damage to this head. Any advice would be appreciated. Inspected all the Cam bolts and found lots of degredation like it was disolving around the upper threads where the bolt hole is not threaded but only on some of the bolts. I found one that had a pin hole going straight through the bolt. Does anyone know why this happens? Is this normal? Would putting sealant around the cam cap mating surfaces help prevent this? And after all this is resolved is it o.k. to reuse the new head gasket that has just been torqued if I have to remove the head for a machinist to get out the sheared bolt? Thanks PT

Are you serious? I would go for that method but did it inflict alot of pain? What about getting it back in? I'm trying to find an engine hoist but if I could get it out without one I would go for it.

Thanks all: System already drained. I pulled it and it was sooo easy. Two bolts and out in a couple minutes. Just wish I had left the fans mounted, that took more time! PT

I think its DOHC, 1996 Leg/Outbck. I'll look for the eye on the electical bracket thing. I took that off because it seemed like the easiest way to get the electrical plugs out of the way. Thanks, PT

thanks!

Where are the lifting points for removing 2.5l engine. I don't see the eyes that are mentioned in the manual. Do I have to bolt on my own chain attachments or wrap the engine somehow to lift? PT

Chilton manual says remove radiator before removing 2.5l engine (Leg/Outback). Is this necessary? PT.