RemcoW
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Posts posted by RemcoW
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Great! Thanks. I care more about the fronts.
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I'm in need of seats for a 93 impreza.
Does anyone know whether 2005 WRX seats will fit this car without too much monkeying around?
Tnx.
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Okay, I found an exact match - a 93 AT AWD, pulled from an Impreza.
Thanks for all the help, guys.
Oops. I guess that one fell through. It was said to be in working order but the transfer case was missing a shaft to drive the drive shaft.
Guess I'm back to hunting for a transmission.
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Okay, I found an exact match - a 93 AT AWD, pulled from an Impreza.
Thanks for all the help, guys.
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the 93 impreza AT awd trans has a 4.11 final drive ratio.
you can use a trans from the following cars:
93 - 98 impreza, 2.2L or 1.8L
95 - 98 legacy 2.2L
you can not use:
96 - 98 legacy, Outback, GT or LSi, 2.5L (unless you also use the matching rear diff.)
some ATs went phase 2 in 99 so i would not go that new, even though the final drive ratio may match. and there will be tons to pick from without including 99s.
try www.car-part.com as a source. you will have to search each year and model separately. put in your zip and sort by distance, shipping will run about $150.
Thank you! That's great info.
And the computer will be compatible with those years' transmissions as well?
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Is it AWD or FWD?
If AWD you not only need to match electronics, but also need to get one with the same differential ratio.
This one is AWD.
How can one tell what the diff's ratio is? Is it noted somewhere?
And what computers are compatible?
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Google tells me that the first generation Impreza ranged from 1992–2001. Are all transmissions in those years compatible as well?
I'm looking for a replacement transmission for a 93 impreza and would prefer to cast as wide a net as possible.
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I first got a Lincoln but found the view too narrow. It also sometimes wouldn't dim if I was looking not right at the work.
I tried a Miller and loved it. It has wider view and has four sensors instead of two so it will always dim.
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I just never seen the blue-ing before - of course, I've only only ever replaced three sensors in my lifetime.
Thanks for all the input, quys.
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My daughter's Forester threw the P0130 code so thought I'd replace the front oxygen sensor.
The replacement sensor the dealer sold me looks like it has been used in that it is blue and it has anti seize on the thread. Is this how they come now?
^That looks used to me but it is said to be brand new..
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Thanks guys -- it certainly seems like the coolant comes out of the top of the engine and goes in to the bottom. The top hose is warm while the bottom is lukewarm.
The last comment about it usually going out of of where the thermostat is what had I always thought as well -- that's actually what caused me to ask this question.
If someone has orginal hoses with arrows (one post mentions they had them) on them, could you please clarify the flow issue?
I replaced the radiator cap. My cap have been bad because it now does seem to build up pressure where it certainly did not before.
In fact, found a tiny weep hole in the radiator that was hiding before.
I'm replacing the radiator. Thanks, all.
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Thanks, guys! That clarifies a lot.
So the coolant enters the radiator at the top and leaves at the bottom.
Overheating is maybe the wrong term: I see coolant trickling out the radiator cap. When it first happened, I didn't want to take any kind of risk so have not driven the car until fixed. For diagnostics purposes, I might run it for 10-15 minutes but not long.
It just occurred to me that maybe it is the radiator cap? I did not notice the overflow reservoir filling..
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I have a 94 Impreza and it is overheating.
The thermostat looks fine. I've replaced the pump last year when I replaced the timing belt. The fans do not come on. I've can fake the system out and turn the fans on by putting a variable resistor in the place of the thermosensor. I've replaced the thermosensor but no joy.
So now I am wondering whether the fans don't come on because they may need coolant flowing by them so feeling around I noticed that the bottom radiator hose appears to not get very hot at all.
I always thought that the the coolant flow on a Subary is reverse to most cars, coming into the radiator from the bottom and comes out the top.
My service manual mentions that this is a "down flow" type radiator.
Someone knows for sure?
On a down flow, one would imagine a blocked radiator could cause this. But if this design is reverse, it is probably less likely, right?
TIA.
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I think the temp sensor and fan switch are different. Look at the R/H intake manifold. You should see two sensors. You can put the ECM into D-check green connectors if my memory is correct and the fans should cycle.
If they are doing that the wires should be good. Have you burpped the system? If there is air in the system it will cause problems.
Good luck. Larry
In D mode they are supposed to cycle? I didn't know that - thanks!
Yes, it has been burped.
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those fans need to be turning on. if the temp is going up...if the gauge is to be believed (which it probably is)...then the fan should be coming on. not sure where your sensor is for the fans though. i think that's the one in the radiator though right? test that one.
The fan works fine when I short the relay's contacts. I strongly suspect the wiring to the thermosensor or the sensor itself.
I've had the radiator out when I had the engine out and don't remember seeing any wiring to a sensor. The sensor I am talking about is sitting on the manifold.
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I have a 94 Impreza that is overheating.
I've burped and added coolant. The fan does not appear to ever turn on.
This is what I've found:
Shorting the main fan relay contacts (the one in the under dash fusebox) turns the main fan on - the fan and associated wiring is good.
Tested the relay on the bench and it is good.
The relay coil has 12V on one side so one would assume that the ECM switches the other side to ground when cooling is deemed necessary. I put a meter across those two points and never see this relay be driven on.
When the AC is turned on, neither fan turns on. The AC is broken so I am not sure if it is supposed to still behave this way.
When it overheats, the temperature gauge stays in the normal range. It seems to behave normally in that when the car is cold, it is indeed indicating cold and it slowly creeps up to normal. Can that gauge be believed?
I am wondering what the ECM uses to determine when to turn the fan on and at what speed. I take it, it must have a way to read the temperature and when a set limit has been exceeded a fan turns on (so it is not a thermo switch but truly a sensor of sorts).
On the schematic, the thermometer used for the dash has a wife going to the ECM as well. From experience I do know that the thermo sensor (a sensor mounted right next to the thermometer on the manifold) is also wired to the ECM. I know it can screw up fuel mixture if the thing is bad and can cause a hard starting condition (btdt). Can a bad sensor also not cause the fans to turn on?
If the thermo sensor is used to determine what fans to turn on, I am wondering why the thermometer indicates a normal temperature condition. It would be hard to believe both are bad
I will over the next couple of days measure from the ECM to the temp sensor to make sure it isn't open. Was curious if I could fake the system out if I just put a potentiometer (or possibly short the connections?) in its place to see if the fans can be turned on.
Sorry for the long post -- anyone else have any suggestions?
Tia
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Good -- sounds like you're well on your way.
I think we both have the same problem: a bad fuel pump. Unfortunately, I've been tied up doing other things.
You may have thought about this already, but also measure the voltage on the contacts to the pump, just to make sure you are getting 12V there. You might see 12V at the relay, but it could also be the wiring to the pump.
Remco
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The unplugged single prong connectors under my dash were BOTH green; now I am confused...
A co-woker has loaned me a voltage tester (ohm meter?) and I am going to play with that tonight and see what I can learn. At this point I hope it is the fuel pump. I know and understand how to swap parts, electrical, I am clueless.
Now when I connected that under the dash green connector my boyfriend turned the key on and I laid with my ear over the pump and heard nothing. But that doesn't clarify anything for me. Pump or electrical? I think some C-4 would solve the whole thing!
But I'll let you know what I find out with the tester.
Jenn
That green connector by itself is supposed to click the pump relay on by itself (among other things). From the way I read it, it is some sort of override mode that allows a tech to test stuff.
Your pump is under a cover in your trunk, right? Or is it outside your trunk, hanging underneath somewhere?
You first have to establish whether your pump is getting power. Your problem may still be the fuel pump relay if you are not getting power to the pump, so you have to figure that out first.
Mine is in my trunk, so the pinout described below would only apply in that case:
Ok, if you have a voltmeter, you should be able to see a voltage on the following pins when you turn the key to the position right before 'start'. You'll first hear a relay in the dash go 'click' <pause> 'click' and during the pause you should very briefly see 12V on pins 1 and 2. If you turn the key to 'start', you should see 12V there while starting and untimately when the car is actually running.
Perhaps bring some paperclips with you to push into the connector, so you have a convenient place to measure from. Be careful to not short them!
If you look at the unplugged fuel pump connector face on (so the wires are pushed in from the back), this is the pin out on my daughter's 95 Impreza:
1 3 5
2 4 6
1&2 pump, 1 being positive, 2 being negative
4&6 looks like the tank level indicator, but I am not quite positive on those connections yet.
3 and 5 are not hooked up.
If you don't see 12V there, try measuring from pin 1 to ground. If you then see 12V, the pump ground connection must be bad - I am not sure where that connection is, unfortunately.
If you still don't see 12V, your pump relay is suspect.
Please note this is not the pinout the official Subaru manual has. I don't have it handy at the moment so my pin out is only to describe to you which pins drive the pump. Actually, the manual pages in my PM to you do contain information as to the official pinout. Did you get them yet?
If you get 12V at that pump connector, set the meter to resistance and measure across the mating end of that connector (so the pump side) on pins 1 and 2. You should see some resistance. If you see infinite resistance, your pump may be bad as well.
On mine I see infinite resistance, so either the pumps motor is bad or a connection internally is bad.
I intend to take mine out and inspect if for loose wires, etc. A new pump assembly is priced at a very steep $350 from Subaru but I do see several individual pumps on ebay. Subaru says that there are no serviceable parts on the assembly but frankly I don't believe them. I suspect some pumps may be drop in replacements for the in-tank pump I have.
A junk yard may also be a good source for a replacement pump.
I'll keep you posted. Unfortunately, I won't get a chance to work on anything over the next couple of days. If you want to bounce ideas, feel free - email direct or PM is fine.
Remco
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Green to put it in test mode
Black to read the trouble code memory
Both together to clear the trouble code memory.
Not sure where I learned that one but that's what my notes say.
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Ok, I found something interesting today which might be of use to you, Jenn:
I wasn't getting any power to the fuel pump. Was just about to see what had to be done to take the fuel pump relay out and it occurred to me that maybe the computer is confused.
So I put the green connector together and tried to start the car. The car still did not start, but this time there was power to the fuel pump. Still not getting fuel into the fuel filter, though..
Listening with a stethoscope while turning the key, it is clear that my pump is definitely not running.
I misplaced my surgery locking pliers so don't want to pull the lines off yet, but will take the pump out to see if there's something that can be fixed. If not, I'll replace my pump.
Hope this is useful to you.
Remco
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Think there should be 2 relays there, the main and the fuel pump. The top roundish one should be the fuel pump relay.
Beezer
Thanks -- is there a trick as to getting to it? I loosened some of the stuff, but I can't get my hand around it, let alone undo the clips of the socket.
Also, is there an interlock or signal that needs to come back from the engine for the fuel pump to run?
I ask because I had the engine out a couple of weeks ago and, when I put the engine back in, it ran quite well for about a week. That's when the pump stopped.
It is just suspicious that just a mere week after I put my engine back in the pump stopped..
When I turn the key to the position before the start position, I hear a relay go "click - one sec pause - click". Is that the fuel pump relay, trying to pressurize the line? If so, there's no short periodic voltage going to the pump so no fuel going to the engine compartment at any time.
Tia!
Remco
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I just stumbled onto this site and thread. I have the same problem with a 95 Impreza.
Got a subaru PDF file (if you need it, email me) that shows exactly where the fuel pump relay is located, but can't quite figure out how to get to it. I've loosened some stuff like the cruise control module - it made a little more space, but can't get my hand around that relay if my life depended on it.
Also took the bottom cover off, so gained a little access hole along the side. Still not quite enough to get that relay loose.
That relay seems to be mounted on a plate, along with the blower relay and main relay. Does taking that plate off make it easier? I see it is held in with one machine screw - is there another one?
I am debating wheter the dash has to come out. Hope that isn't the case..
Anything you learn, I'd appreciate it. I'll return the favor.
Remco
Seat compatibility question
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks for the tips - it worked like a chimp. They look great.
One lesson I learned from this: make sure the seat belts clip fits before you bolt the seats in.
The seat belt clip is different in that new one was narrower but the original one can be made to work. I drilled the hole a bit larger.
The rear seats won't fit because this is a station wagon and the seats came out of a sedan. So if anyone needs 'okay'* black rear seats, let me know.
(* they need cleaning and have a slight tear on one side)