dxrflyboy
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Posts posted by dxrflyboy
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I might have answered my own question. The ff1 ad with the non-bezeled headlights is RHD. It's also posted on another forum as a '69. Obviously, it wasn't a US market car. I am curious about the Star, though, since the brochure has '71 printed on it and it was published by SOA. Were they even sold here in the US, or were they sold in other countries in this hemisphere, such as Canada, Mexico, etc.? Living examples of ff1s are very scarce, but they can be found. A google search for the Star, however, comes up empty handed.:-\
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I'm a bit confused by the headlight treatments of the ff1/star carline. From what I've seen, all the G models had bezels around the headlights. The Stars did not. However, the bezels weren't limited to the G models. Looking at the brochures, I see a mix of bezeled and non-bezeled headlights for both 1970 and 1971 ff1 (non-G, non-Star designation) models. The brochures appear to all be from SOA, so I'm assuming they are all US market cars. Can anyone shed some light on this (no pun intended!
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I checked out his site too. The Renegade conversion pictured on their site is, according to another forum, an EJ20T. They've been using the stock Porsche transaxle, but I can't help but wonder what it would take to swap in a complete STi powertrain (6-speed trans). I know the viscous coupling would have to be replaced with a direct drive of some sort, but beyond that (axles, mounts, etc.) is something I would like to know about.
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I was thinking about this swap just yesterday. I happened to see a 914 on the road in pristine condition that day as well. So I google searched and found this:
http://www.renegadehybrids.com/914/914.html
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Whore.
I guess that makes two of us. I'm just an ff1 owner wannabe myself.
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After the revision of the 1400 in '74/75 all the EA engines,etc. were bored,not sleeved.
All 1400s thru 1976 had removable wet liners. The 1976 service manual I have access to specifies the wet liners for the EA63 (1400) and dry liners for the EA71 (1600). My father's '76 DL wagon had the 1400 and it chewed up head gaskets like water.
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It looks like maybe another add-on by the previous owner. You'll need to trace the other end under the dash and see where it goes. Chances are, it serves no purpose.
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Your clutch cable may be stretched and in need of replacement, or you have too much travel due to a worn out clutch.
I couldn't see the vacuum hose coming out of the firewall you were talking about. The transmission does have a vent hose that has a U-bend at the top and doesn't connect to anything. The tee in the pic looks like it was added on at some point, maybe for a vacuum gauge. Cap it for now, until you can find what it should connect to.
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Loosen the small nut, tighten the cable with the big nut, and lock the small nut against the big nut when you're done.
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That would be it.
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The high idle may be a sticking choke. Check to see if it opens all the way when the engine is warm. If not, it may need adjustment or the choke heater isn't working. I'm not sure if your car has an electric choke or not, but it probably does. Check for power and ground with the engine running. This may be causing your spark plugs to foul, resulting in misfire. Adjust your clutch linkage right away before you damage your transmission. It's a simple job. Take out the spare tire and the clutch lever is right underneath. Loosen the jam nut and take the tighten slack out of the cable. There needs to be some free play - 1" of pedal travel should do it. If the clutch won't fully disengage after adjusting it and there are no floor mats in the way of full travel, it's time for a new clutch.
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Now, I could be wrong, but I have read that the EA65 was actually a 1300cc variant used in the Leone vans made around 1982. From what I remember, it should fit any EA63 application as a short block. Maybe this engine came over from one of the foreign engine importers? Always wanted one those vans, but they were never for export (to US).
If it really was the 1300cc variant, it may not be possible to know it wasn't a 1400cc since it has the inboard common exhaust ports and associated camshaft. The only way to know if it was really 1300cc would be to measure displacement. Would be interesting to find out, but I think the 1300 to 1400 change was bore, and not stroke. Anyone know if this is the case?
In the US, at least, the EA engines had the same stroke up to the EA71 1600cc, with the displacement varying by bore size. The EA81 had the same bore as the EA71, with a stroke increase to make 1800cc.
I have also read the same thing about the EA65 being a 1300cc engine used in Leones outside the US.
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'72 was the first year of the new body style following the FF1. The FF1 was also available as a wagon. BTW, I answered my own question on the EA65. A Google search revealed that it was a 1300cc engine used in Europe.
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I wish I knew the answer to that question. I do know that the replacement engine installed in my father's '76 had no head gasket problems, quite unlike the original engine. I don't know what was different about the block - whether it was a dry liner design like the EA71 or had freestanding iron liners that were pressed in place. That's why I am curious about the EA65. I'm entertaining the possibility that an EA65 replaced the original EA63. That was years ago and the car is long gone, so there is no way I can know whether or not this was the case.
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Hmmm...EA65...It must be the missing link!:clap:Here's the big question - is it the ORIGINAL engine? If not, it could be the dry liner version of the 1400, designed to eliminate the head gasket problems of the removable wet sleeve EA63. I'm only surmising here, but maybe someone in the know can confirm or refute this...
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Skip, please correct me if I am wrong, as I dont mess much with EA71's but I thought there were three variations -
The first one was the 1970's version - it had removeable piston liners, and tended to blow head gaskets. It has a top-center mounted starter.
All EA71s had "dry" liners. Unlike the removable iron "jugs" used in previous engines, these were thin sleeves cast inside aluminum cylinders.
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175/65/14 is about the same diameter as a 175/70/13. They should work fine on a Brat, although a 185/65/14 may be preferable.
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The 1100-1600 engines all had the same stroke, with the displacements varying by bore size. Both the 1100 and the 1300 were used in the FF1. The 1300, 1400, and 1600 were all used in the "gen 1" or "Leone" car line. The 1300 was phased out about the time the 1600 was introduced, and the 1400 disappeared shortly thereafter. The 1100, 1300, and early 1400 all had the intake valves inboard and the exhaust valves outboard in the head, with an exhaust port on each end of the head. Later 1400s and 1600s had inboard exhaust/outboard intake valves with single exhaust ports on the bottom of the heads. The 1800 was the first Subaru H4 with a longer stroke than the previous engines.
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got 900hp 3200lb torque from my weber!!!
You got nothin' on my Ford Tempo! Where you at?? I'll hand your @$$ to you!
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Those cars were so small and simple! Is it any wonder why 40 years ago there were at least as many car models getting 30+ mpg as there are now? An FF1 was 2000 lbs. of STEEL. Today's "subcompacts" are 3000 lbs. of PLASTIC! My dad's '71 1300G wagon got 36 mpg. No car he has owned since has done that! If you ask me, if cars were getting that mileage 40 years ago, there's no excuse, with today's technology, for today's small cars not to do at least that well!
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Stirring up the extra oil in the trans must have been bogging your engine down a bit.
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It's been a number of years since I wrenched on an older gen Sube, but they typically have more working room around the ends of the rack than most cars. The inner tie rod tool I mentioned in a previous post slides over the tie rod after the outer end and rack boot have been removed. The appropriate sized insert to fit the flats on the rack end is locked into the end of the tool, and a 1/2" breaker bar is inserted at the other to unscrew the tie rod from the rack. If there is sufficient working room, the tie rod can be removed/replaced with an open end/adjustable wrench.
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Inner tie rods can be changed without replacing the rack. You will need an inner tie rod tool to replace it.
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Does anyone know if a 2wd 3at can be made 4wd with a moderate amount of parts swapping?
pulling heads?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I haven't yet seen any product/process that actually removes calcium deposits from the cooling system, although some may claim to. If someone comes up with a product like AutoRX for the cooling system, I might be tempted to believe it works, provided I see some evidence as such. AutoRX is a treatment process for oil sludged engines. It is added to the oil and run for a specified mileage. The oil is then changed & replaced with oil only, run for a specified mileage, changed, and AutoRX is added again at the next change. Specified mileage, change w/oil only...check the link at bobistheoilguy.com. Search for AutoRX. Coolant flushes are more to remove all the old coolant from the system and replace it with new than to remove deposits left by the old coolant. A product/process for the cooling system that works like AutoRX does for the oil/lube system may work, if and when such a thing exists.