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hogweed

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Posts posted by hogweed

  1. You can check the connectors as well to verify if there's any question over years since you're right on the cusp - they're either the same or they are not.

     

    98 GT trans would work in a 98 forester.

     

    Is spin on filter and 8 bolt bellhousing always indicative of Phase II only or do some late 98s have that as well?

    i sold him the forester a couple years ago and i thought it had been a 98. he told me it was a 99 so i wanted to re check. 

  2. i will try that straight away....i switched out clusters with the same results so i suspect the gauge is ok. i just remembered we had to bypass the alarm under the dash so i'm beginning to think something was unplugged that shouldn't have been

    it seems that when i ground that single wire off what i thought was the temp sending unit the oil light stays on. this sending unit is next to the crank sensor right behind the EJ22 stamp. i don't see another single-wire sending unit on the motor anywhere.

    edit: after reviewing \several more threads it seems the sensor i need is under the intake on the pass side. i unplugged it and the gauge went all the way up, as was suggested but fairfax....when i cleaned it and plugged it back in i now have a blinking CEL

  3. Ok, if that didn't make the temp guage work, unplug the wire from the sensor, ground it to the engine on clean metal and turn the key on. The temp guage should rise to the top. If it rises, the temp sensor is bad. If it still doesn't move there could be a wire problem between the guage and the sensor, the guage may not be getting power, or the guage could be faulty.

    i will try that straight away....i switched out clusters with the same results so i suspect the gauge is ok. i just remembered we had to bypass the alarm under the dash so i'm beginning to think something was unplugged that shouldn't have been

  4. Connector on the temp sensor is loose or the spade is corroded. The single wire sensor.

     

    Fuel guage could be a handful of things. I would check the connector on top of the pump for corrosion first.

    looked at it today and tried the connector theory. it seems to be secure and i pulled it off and reinstalled it a few times in case it was corroded which it didn't appear to be. checked all the fuses and eyeballed all the connectors......didn't try the fuel sender yet because of stuff in the cargo area that i didn't feel like moving today!

  5. Connector on the temp sensor is loose or the spade is corroded. The single wire sensor.

     

    Fuel guage could be a handful of things. I would check the connector on top of the pump for corrosion first.

    finally have some time to check it out. i was going to put some more fuel in to see if the gauge would move but i found the filler neck had rusted through! i had one from the car the motor came out of that was good so i used it and now it should be fine to fill the tank. i'll check the connectors....

     

    thank you

  6. i bought the 2000 impreza (lightly crashed, salvage certificate) a couple years ago. i fixed the damage but it has some more rust than i like and i have been undecided about going the rest of the way to get it titled again.

    i recently acquired a 2000 legacy outback with a seized 2.5 in it and thought i might be able to swap the 2.2 from the impreza into the legacy but i remember it gets a little more complicated as the years go up.

    any help/suggestions would be appropriated.

     

    both are 5 speed cars

     

    thank you

    gregg

  7. Mechanically it installs and runs and drives perfectly.  That EJ22 with exhaust manifold bolts up and plugs in to that EJ25 vehicle.

     

    If the EJ22 has no EGR and the vehicle it's going into does have EGR:  then you'll get a check engine light.  If that's a problem for you or you can't work around it then no it won't work. Options:

    1.  ignore the check engine light

    2.  install the EGR equipped Ej25 manifold onto the EJ22 and play with vacuum hoses to get the check engine light to disappear.

    3.  bolt the EJ25 heads to the Ej22 block to retain fully functioning EGR. 

    no emissions where i live (for now) so i think i'll go with option 1 :)

  8. i have this 2000 impreza 2.2 5 speed i was going to fix but i think it may be too rusty, soooooooo

    i found a 2000 OBW 2.5 5 speed w/ a bad motor and i was thinking to use the 2.2.

     

    i read this will work....then i read it won't work....then it would work...

    will it work and anything i need to be aware of other than swapping the driver side sprockets?

     

    thx

    g

  9. if they are both mt the trans should work. You may need the rear diff if the ratios are wrong.. 1999 2.5 autos use different electrics than a 1998 and earlier

     

    matt's right,

    the 99 AT will not swap.

    the manual trans should not be an issue as long as both are ej25 cars.

    the final drives will match.

     

    sorry for the bad info.

    thank you, fellas!

    ok, so i don't think the trans in the 98 is bad i just thought i'd solve the clutch issue that way....but i got to thinking that even if i just swap motors the clutch on the 99 comes out when i pull that motor and can still go into the 98!

    now the question is which is easier to do: engine and trans together or just swap engines? i have to think the engine swap is the way to go

  10. 99 ej25 DOHC engine intro a 98 ej25 car....

    the engine is plug an play.

    the bell housing of the engine is different

    so you will only have 4 engine to trans bolts to use,

    but once it is bolted in you are good to go.

     

    the trans will not swap.

    don't even try.

    it fits 00 - 03 cars, outbacks.

    ok, so no-go on the 99 manual trans into the 98 outback wagon

    thank you

  11. ok, i thought i had this figured out but i'm getting nervous!

    2 outback wagons....

    i have a 1999 30th anniversary obw 2.5 5 speed  that's crashed but has a great drivetrain.

    i have another 1998 obw 2.5 5 speed that has a great body/int but has a bad engine.

     

    would this be a direct swap for engine and tranny?

    thanks in advance

    g

  12. No, your 99 Forester has a single over head cam, the 99 Legacy has a double over head cam motor. Both motors are 2.5 displacement, but have different computer control management systems, so can't be interchanged.

     

    There may be some "work arounds" to piece something together, but not a direct swapl

    yup....legacy is dohc!! thanks

     

     

    that motor will go into a 97 legacy 2.5 dohc thought correct?

  13. Tomcat makes a kit that has a couple glue traps and a 'live' catch mechanism. in that package is this green bait gel that is 50x better than anything i've ever seen. the mice in my shop gnawed the top off the bottle to get at it when i accidentally left it out (closed).....it seems it is like crack to them!

     

    http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2660318

     

    throw that in the center of the glue trap and he'll be stuck there in the morning.

    • Like 1
  14. Nice idea! I did not have much trouble getting mine out. I'm one of the lucky ones and live in Georgia where salt is virtually non-existent. I saw your question regarding the spring. My spring was ok but I had tons of slop when shifting gears. It's still shifting great.

    i thought i had really mushroomed it but once i sat the air hammer on it it came out.

    on assembly i couldn't get the holes to stay lined up nor get the pin to stay on the punch w/ tape....i kept looking at it (hoping to stare it in?) and i thought of that set up. worked like magic. thepunch centers everything the the nut keeps the force on the bottom surface of the pin

  15. this is a good write up. the one thing i was not able to find was a good method to install the new roll pin.

    i pretty much destroyed the old one taking it out so i couldn't re-use it.

     

    i found the key to this was to use a punch that was slender enough to fit up through the center of the large, outer pin without getting stuck (1/8" punch). i also used a small nut with a shoulder on it to provide a flat surface to connect with the bottom side of the pin (shown below)....

    punch1_zps58d3a737.jpg

     

     

    i used a 3/8" drive socket to hold the punch and an old extension to extend the tool in order to be able to hold it and strike it hard enough.

     

     

    punch_zps72940687.jpg

     

     

    the punch thru the pin helps keep the unit centered while hammering it up...

     

    hope this helps

    • Like 1
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