splicesite

im a total amateur and performed this repair easily on my 95 subaru. the problem was that leaves and dirt had collected in the plastic guard at the outside bottom of the tube so it remained wet always and rusted through. i would leave this guard off when replacing the tube. the OEM fill pipe is $114.26 at subaruparts.com i remember it was hard to get the old hose off, if I remember correctly i ended up just getting a new length of rubber fuel hose from the auto shop of the approximate same shape and diameter and attached it to the gas tank with hose clamps, cost just a few bucks. Using a new custom-cut hose also gives you a bit more "wiggle room" when installing. I didnt have to drop the gas tank. If you can get the hose clamp around the gas tank end of the hose, and point the screw on the clamp straight down, you should have enough room to get a socket around the screw on the clamp to get it tightened up. It is a bit cramped in there i agree.

Hi, my luggage rack is all beat up and looks like crap. I saw this one online: http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=17 But it says this kit is for models that don't have an existing rack. Is it the same as the OEM rack that came on my legacy? Can I replace it with this?

thanks!

Hi all, My wife's 95 Legacy sedan developed a 'crunching' sound coming from the left rear strut over the winter when going over tiny bumps or even just pushing down on that corner of the car. I thought maybe the strut was bad, but it seems to be absorbing bounces just fine still. I inspected the strut and there was no oil leaking, however there was a bunch of crud built up on the bottom part of the strut piston. I cleaned it off and the chrome of the shaft is all rough and pitted. I imagine this is from road salt over the winters. I sanded down the rough stuff lightly and lubricated the piston. The crunching noise stopped and the ride seems ok, as far as I can tell the strut is still good even though the shaft is severely pitted. My question is should I replace the rear struts or just wait for one to fail? With moderate to severe pitting, how long can the seal on the strut possibly last? I'd rather not have to change them out, especially since the strut mounts look like they're not in great shape either and it would be a bit pricey for all new rear suspension + alignment (for that matter, is alignment necessary if just replacing the rears?). What would you do.

hi, not sure this is kosher but if anyone has an account and would be willing to pull a report for me i would love it. i can pm you the vin.

you can just follow the instructions on the can and it works fine. Goes in the pcv valve tube or any other nearby vacuum line... even the little thin ones. Also can be used in fuel, oil, but thats another can of worms.

I HIGHLY recommend you buy from crutchfield because they include a car model-specific install kit for FREE with any order. It is very helpful as it tells you exactly how to install the specific speakers in your specific cars and often includes trim pieces or risers or special screws that are specific for your car model. Every car is a bit different and even though the speakers are the correct size it doesnt mean they will just fit right in. Crutchfield has competitive prices and if its a little more pricey than some guy on ebay, its worth it for their custom install kit and awesome support. If you have any problem with installation, you just call them up and they will help you out on the phone. No, I dont work for crutchfield either!!

I actually think my 95 factory stereo sounds great for a stock stereo. And its not true that new speakers will crackle and barely work as posted above. If you still have the original factory speakers you will notice a great improvement in sound just by replacing the speakers and the sound will be fine - most lower-end consumer speakers are rated under 35-40W RMS MAX and will perform just fine at 5-10W which is fine for the factory stereo. There are many cheap, decent speakers available like alpine, sony, polk, blah blah.... Obviously if one wants awesome sound they should buy a new stereo, amps, high-end speakers, subwoofers, etc.... but that is not what you are looking for. You can get a pair of decent speakers for the front for between $50-$100. Personally I would recommend replacing the speakers first, not the deck. Stock speakers are made of paper and have surely degraded substantially over the past 13 years while sitting in the summer heat, getting wet in the winter, etc... Go to www.crutchfield.com , they have everything you need and are super helpful for new do-it-yourselfers with custom kits. Give them a call and they will tell you exactly what fits in your car or you can put your year/model in their website and it will show you what fits and stuff.

i had a similar short a few years ago that melted the whole socket and boot. i hooked the wires back up without a boot and have been running like that for five years through northeast winters, and have had no problems at all, no corrosion on the contacts or anything amazingly. If you find a pair of these boots i'll split them with you...

Really? It just feels so harsh when the engine keeps slamming into 4400RPM down the highway, above 5k it feels like its going to blow up or something. Maybe I am just too sensitive.

I wish I could use my cruise control on my '95 Legacy 2.2, but at highway speeds it upshifts to 4000RPM+ at the slightest little incline to stay at speed, more than my poor little 2.2 likes to handle. I wish it didnt have to be like that. Using my foot on the pedal I have no trouble staying at speed without breaking 3300RPM. Any suggestions other than to drive slower? Highway cruising speed around here is 75-80mph. (NYS highway patrol doesnt cite below 81mph from what I have seen, and this seems to hold true nationally for 65mph zones)

Yeah the cheap aftermarket pads dont come with shims. If your old shims fit and are useable still you can try them, but they probably are pretty worn out. You dont really need shims with the aftermarket pads. Their only purpose is to reduce noise. I dont use shims and have had no problem with rattle or other noise.

Ok, my wife's 1993 Legacy L non-turbo had some really loud turbo muffler installed by the previous owner. It wakes our neighbors and scares our cat. Looking through the threads, there are a zillion recommendations for these loud aftermarket mufflers. All the mufflers at the local auto store look like loud turbo mufflers as well. But can anyone recommend a QUIET and cheap aftermarket (non-performance) muffler? Like, stock-quiet. Or, have one to sell? thanks

oh yeah , sorry it was late. duh! anyway just tap the caliper from the inside edge and it should break free and swing up no problem.

yeah disc brake work is super simple on this car, even if you are a stranger to auto repair its still a piece of cake and saves big $$$$$. in a nutshell- the Haynes manual pretty much says it all. remove the lower pin all the way and the caliper should just swing up, it does take a little force sometimes to get it unstuck. dont be afraid to bang on it a bit. if your rotors are really really worn down there may be a lip at the edge of the rotor that the pads are getting stuck on when trying to swing the caliper up. take out the old pads (may need to smack them with a hammer to break them free if they are really rusted down), replace the rotor if needed, when putting the new pads in sometimes its a pain to get the aftermarket pads in the caliper clips but just takes a bit of wiggling. dont forget you will need a c-clamp to push the caliper slider into the caliper to make room for the new pads. you can actually use a pair of large channel-locks to accomplish this as well if you dont have a c-clamp. also a good idea to remove a bit of fluid from the master cylinder before you push the slider in and top it off after the new pads are installed. presto.