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About ericem
- Birthday 02/11/1991
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AIM
ericem22
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MSN
eric_em@msn.com
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ericem1
Profile Information
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Location
CANADA Maple,ON
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Interests
Automotive
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Occupation
Student
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Vehicles
94 Legacy SS
ericem's Achievements
Subaru Master (10/11)
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My driver's door is hard to open from inside - have to hit it several times with elbow before it springs open. Should I take apart, clean and lube?? Suggestions? its a 92 subaru legacy wagon, looks just like yours!! Thanks.
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Oil pan screws
ericem replied to 1-3-2-4's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
After I rtv the pan I only tighten the bolts by holding a short extension in my hand I don't even use a wrench. Even if you took off the bolts that rtv holds on pretty tight. -
Mine was the exact same way i would idle till it warmed up and the fans would cycle start driving it bam exactly what your talking about. I was searching for months and posting sooo many threads about this problem because it would drive me crazy I replaced my rad, 3 oem thermostats, rad caps, running lines differently etc. Blowing out the stop leak crap from my heatercore fixed it. IMO I wouldn't put another dose of subaru conditioner this round.
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I had this exact same issue with my old legacy I found my heatercore was clogged if you look at a coolant diagram it bypasses through the heatercore when the thermostat closes. What I did was flush the heater core back and forth with a hose, including filled it with water and again flushing both ways express with 100+psi of compressed air and I saw little pieces of stop leak that were clogging the cores. Just incase though I assume your using a new OEM thermostat. I also replaced my ecu coolant temp sensor multiple times as well as thermostat's because it drove me crazy! You can still replace the temp sensor anyway since it's not a bad idea to replace it. Another question a/c is off i assume
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Just a update the rear is all straightened up replaced the bent hub and installed new strut perfect! Now back to the front. Looks like the mount on the crossmember for the control arm is off by 1/2-1" . Also keep in mind the motor is actually sitting slightly sideways. The driveside of the engine is sitting slightly closer maybe 1/2" to the rad which makes no sense IMO. I am now wondering are the bolts bent or the crossmember itself? How do I remove the bolts or studs I mean for the xmember just so I can atleast check them to see if they are straight?
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Guess no one experiences the hub being bent? The laterals and trailing arm show no signs of damage or bent just there is alot of positive camber even with a new strut its the same. It is hard to tell but it does appear the hub is bent I just wanted to hear someone else has experienced this or else I am thinking there is something else bent severely.
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Hey guys just want some opinions I am going to tackle fixing my friends 2000 impreza rs he hit a curb at "unknown speeds" and right now looked like front control arm replacement possibly crossmember as well, rack, swap bar and endlink, struts all around ill be doing wheels. In the rear he hit the curb as well looked like it just needed a strut only. Now reason I am thinking he needs a new crossmember is because the motor is sitting like a 1cm sideways id say. I am either going to swap in a crossmember from a 92 legacy turbo or I am thinking possible the bushing for the crossmember have been damaged. I am curious what others have found in similar repairs. I will post some pics tomorrow.