Jenn

Well, thanks anyway. The salvage yard special fixed 'er right up! We dropped that "new" pump in and she turned over and started no problem!

Ya know, I don't believe the pump contacts were checked...eh *shrug* My other half is already heading down to get the pump and stuff. So we'll see what happens. Good luck on yours when you get a chance to work on it. Jenn

ok, I believe I need a fuel pump.

Here is what I have learned: There is nothing but the inside of the outside metal behind my fuse box. If you take off the rubber guard and touch the coil on top the engine while the key is on it will light up your life. My dad unscrewed the very bottom of the dash (the part above your shins) and found what he thinks ( ) may be the relay. It had the right combo of wires going in. We used the voltage/ohm tester everywhere we could and found that the pump is getting power and in the right sequences. My dad's diagnosis is that the car doesn't realize that the pump isn't working and everything is fine except that the pump isn't pumping. My other half is going to head down to the salvage yard tomorrow and grab a pump, a relay, and whatever else we may be able to use...I love the salvage yard. You bring your tools and grab a wheelbarrow and take what you need for highly reduced prices. Redneck shopping at it's finest!

The unplugged single prong connectors under my dash were BOTH green; now I am confused... A co-woker has loaned me a voltage tester (ohm meter?) and I am going to play with that tonight and see what I can learn. At this point I hope it is the fuel pump. I know and understand how to swap parts, electrical, I am clueless. Now when I connected that under the dash green connector my boyfriend turned the key on and I laid with my ear over the pump and heard nothing. But that doesn't clarify anything for me. Pump or electrical? I think some C-4 would solve the whole thing! But I'll let you know what I find out with the tester. Jenn

Is it marked in any way to identify it? A number or a label or a name? (Just hoping, anything to make it easy and smooth)

Thanks a million! I will try that as soon as I get home from work. Just to clarify though; you are talking about the fuse box under the dash right? Or did you mean the one under the hood.? Thank you thank you thank you!!!!!

Thanks, I appreciate the offer and I may take you up on it if I can't get the old girl fixed. I hooked it up to a diagnostic last night and other than telling me that the check engine light was on (DUH!) it said "no codes" which I don't understand. Obviously something is wrong, I thought for sure it would be able to tell me...sigh.

I looked at those links and I am not seeing my car listed. They all seem to go to 1994 and stop. I am so very frustrated with this situation. Thanks anyway.

Ok you wizards of subaru...I need help (again!) I replaced the ECU and it was fine for 5 days and then it died and hasn't started since. My father in law poured some gas into the intake and it started immediately and ran till that gas was gone and died again. I have read up on several threads here but nothing has worked so far. How do I find the fuel pump relay and or any fuses involved in the process? I tried the "connect the single prong green connector and listen for the pump to come on" idea and got nothing; but my father (mechanic) said that is not necessarily indicitive of a bad fuel pump it could still be electrical. I need some help in a big way. Anybody live near me and feel like lending a brain or a hand this weekend or soon? Are there any other ideas out there? I need my car.

Your welcome. Glad to help. Now go get some sleep!

Unless your engine set-up is drastically different from mine your shouldn't need to do that...(I am very new to this site so take that into consideration with all my advice) When I changed mine out just last thursday, I stood on the passenger side of the car right up by the windshield and leaned in. It was right there under the wires after I took the air intake off and removed three small hoses. I am pretty sure I couldn't have reached it from underneath if I tried but there is 2 years difference between our models. *Shrug*

Well, on my '95 it was on the back passenger side of the engine under the intake and several clumps of wires. Getting to it took longer than changing it out. Also, we didn't drain the coolant. Some leaked out but it wasn't too bad. Hope that helps.

8/05. So? Point is I have a dead car and am trying to fix it and the answer to this would help me out a lot. I have tried several things I have read here and so far nothing has worked. (No fault of anybody here though) I cannot find the pump relay and/or fuses so I am stuck. I can't even find out if the fuel pump is actually dead.

Wait! that is exactly what I am searching this forum to find out! What was the answer to both questions.... Jenn

Well, never thought about that at all...hrmmm. When we were fixing it last night we ended up completely removing the air filter and such to get to the ECT sensor ((Getting to it took longer than replacing it!!!!)) So when I reattatched everything I double checked everything to make sure all the hoses and such were connected. They seemed to be and it started great. Hopefully it all works out now.

Only to see if it needed to be blown out. It didn't seem to be too bad so I put it back. Why?

I don't think that the knock sensor is preventing it from starting; that is just the second code that the diagnostic spit out at me. I read somewhere that sometimes the knock sensor is over tightened and that causes the funky ready but I don't really know. Its the first car I have had that had one. And it was there before I had my clutch replaced and its there now so I don't know...it isn't a priority right now. I did clear out the codes a while back while I was fiddling with the battery and before I was a mile down the road it was back on again (the check engine light that is) I was told by my mechanic father (who is incredibly hard to get ahold of, which is why I am on this forum) that if the e/c sensor is bad then the car thinks it is really cold out and gives too much fuel which floods out the O2 sensor and the car can't start. I am wondering if all this cranking I have to do to get it to start is going to wear out my starter?

Those pics are great! Thank you! It's so hard to replace something you cannot find!

Thank you. I appreciate the suggestion. I do have a book (It could be Haynes) picked it up at autozone. It is spectacularly unhelpful in this regard. It shows an illustration of the sensor and a vague "on the coolant pipe" for location. Maybe I am just not auto savvy enough to get what it is saying.

Hi all, I am in dire need of assistance...Repairs need to be done before Friday the 10th. Here is the problem. My sub doesn't like to start. It used to only do it after driving short distances. Now anytime is fair game. It cranks until the battery dies and I can hear it trying to catch but it won't. When it does start the gas smell is enormous and it revves up high to burn off the excess gas. I have been told that it is the Coolant Temp Sensor and I bought one, but I can't find where to put the stupid thing. My check engine light is always on. I hooked it up to a diagnostic and it said that the engine coolant temp sensor was malfunctioning and knock sensor 1 malfunction. I don't know where the Knock sensor is located either. The most important thing is for me to get the car starting reliable before we have to go out of town. I do not relish being in a strange town with a vehicle that runs its battery down trying to start. Also, do you think I need to replace the battery now too? Or can I just hook it up to a recharger? I am new here (first post) and this seems like a really knowledgable forum...I hope you all can help me out. Sorry about the rush but I need answers pronto...Thanks in advance Jenn