TJeep_1999

Nice ride... too bad you're in TX :-\

I had the same question... check the link below: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52641

I also have EA82(2wd) I priced out new parts as well. You should be able to get everything but the backing plate from NAPA. The only place (I know of) where you can get new backing plates is from the dealer. I did find a dealer on-line that would sell the plates for $65 each which was a lot cheaper then the local dealer. I think NAPA sold the Caliper for $73.99 and I also have $55 in my notes so there was either or core charge or I was able to talk the guy down. I ended up going with used parts. I hope this helps! Good luck!

Trogdor you are the man. The plug under the seat was connected, but the wires leading into it were cut. I'm not sure how this would happen or why you would cut them since the connector is right there Either way I'm going to just splice them together and go from there. Thanks for your help everybody!!!

Both auto shoulder belts are plugged in and both move along the tracks as intended when the doors open and close. The passenger side shoulder belt does seem a bit slack though... It doesn't seem to retract into the center console very well. If the seatbelt control module thingy is fried would the belts still be operating? Where is this device? So the shoulder belts work, but the passenger side has some slack to it. The lap belts don't affect the seatbelt light guy at all. He never dings. What is his "normal operating procedure" for this little guy? Thanks!

Yes... I can see how that would help... sorry. 1992 Loyale non-turbo 5spd fwd.

I'm compiling a list of repairs I'll do (parts I'll get) once I get my tax return back so I'll add this one to my list or maybe I'll get lucky and there is a simple fix. My little seat belt dude is always lit up. Not a huge deal and praises be that he doesn't ding, but is there a fuse or something I can pull to get him to turn off or has some one else had this problem and now how to fix it? Is it meaningful that he is lit, but doesn’t ding? Is he supposed to be on all the time Thanks!

Heartless if you're wondering if it is a turbo it is not. It's a n/a motor.... I'm guessing that's what you were asking??? 4wd would be nice shifter slop??? Yeah we've got that :cool: That's good news about the valves. Thanks for info especially about the transmision oil. That's an easy enough thing to do. The T-Belt was replaced last year so I should be set there. Oil pump... I guess I'll add that to the list... If I make it to 500K I'll let be sure to let the board know Thanks!

I also thought I might add that I do get quite a bit of valve noise. I'm thinking the valves on this car need to be adjusted, but I'm not excited about pulling apart the engine for any reason nor do I trust myself to do a valve adjustment. That being said this is something I would rather ignore if possible :-\ I'm more of a "bolt on" kind of mechanic... axle replacement, Power stearing pumps, brakes, ect... Is a valve adjustment something I "need" to do

I recently bought a '92 2wd, 5spd, Loyale wagon with 230K miles on the engine and I think the tranny is even original. I don't see how it is possible that the tranny lasted 230k. I bought it from the original owner and he insisted both engine and tranny were original. There are some must fix items that I will need to replace to pass inspection and for safety concerns, but there are also some discretionary items that I haven't decided on yet... struts being the big item here. My question is this: How many more miles can I expect out of the drive train? It does burn and leak oil, but not at a level where I think I need to panic... yet Just curious... thanks!

Well after much success using this forum for pulling the codes I figure it can't hurt to hit up the the forum experts for some trouble shooting tips. For background I just picked up a 2wd '92 Loyale 5spd with the original motor and tranny at 230k miles It was a one owner subaru, but it does need a bit of TLC... okay... a lot of TLC. It looks like I've got a "34" (EGR Solenoid or Circuit) and a "35" (Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit). I checked the Haynes manual so I have a pretty good idea how to trouble shoot the EGR Solenoid, but I don't even know where the Purge Control Solenoid is much less what it does Is it significant that both these errors are occuring at the same time? I find it hard to believe that both solenoids went out at the same time which makes me worry that this might be the "...or circuit" part of the code. :-\ Any ideas/tips before I get started? I'm planning on working on this over the weekend... Thanks for reading...

Well it looks like I've got a "34" (EGR Solenoid or Circuit) and a "35" (Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit). I ended up having to remove the knee panel beneath the steering wheel to see the LED, but it lines up in such a way were I can see why that might not be required on some models. I never would have figured this out with out every one's help. This is a great site:banana: Thanks Again!

You were both right. The connectors are green and white and they are located right by the fuel filter, behind the drivers side strut tower. This saved me a lot of time tonight that I might have spent wondering if I had the right wires. Thank you. When I turned the key to the on position, with both connectors disconnected, the check engine light just stays on solid. Here is what I'm seeing: Wires Connected: None Key in "ON" Posistion: Solid Check Engine Light When I Start the Engine: Solid Check Engine Light Wires Connected: Green Only Key in "ON" Posistion: Solid Check Engine Light When I Start the Engine: Light goes out Wires Connected: White Only Key in "ON" Posistion: Solid Check Engine Light When I Start the Engine: Solid Check Engine Light Wires Connected: Both Key in "ON" Posistion: Solid Check Engine Light When I Start the Engine: Light goes out I was expecting the light to flash with at least one of these combinations, but I'm not seeing that. In all cases where the check engine light turns off, when I start the car, it comes right back on again after the engine runs for awhile. Any ideas? Could I be doing something wrong or is it possible something is wrong with the ECU Thank you again for your time and help!

I just picked up a '92 Loyale wagon. I'm sure it has to be out on the forum somewhere, but I'm having touble finding the specific details... probably my own doing Anyway, I have a 2wd, 5spd, 1992 Loyale and I want to find out why my check engine light is on. Where can I find the "test" wires/connectors? I've seen where some people said they are in the engine bay and others state that they are behind the steering column. What do they look like? What color are they? Green? White? Black? Any specifics to help me find these things would be greatly appreciated Any help is welcomed... thanks again!