doktorbill

I usually change the final drive fluids on Japanese cars after approx 7 years or 90K miles, whether it says to do it or not. Yes, I know many Subies are US Made. The Japanese seem to do many things well, but seem to have a problem with rear axle oil. I have drained several Nissan and Toyota final drives, and the stuff is turning chunky-- has thick and thin parts in it. Also, it smells like sewage-- not the semi-clean smell of sulphur in normal hypoid oil. Even if your Subaru is US Made, I would still change the final drive oil in both front and rear every 50K miles, especially with the power the Subaru has. I have installed Redline 75W90 in several cars, and have noted an approx 1/2 to 1 mile-per-gallon improvement in fuel economy. I am currently testing Valvoline Durablend 75W90-- works great, and fuel economy seems a bit better, so far. Still testing.

Congrats on your new arrival. I cannot speak for head gaskets, other than to say-- no replace until they fail. Engine removal is usually required to perform an adequate job on head gaskets. Regarding oil leaks, you do not furnish the mileage on the car, but I suspect you do not have leaking valve cover gaskets. More likely are the camshaft oil seals (both the seal that touches the camshaft, and the one which seals between the front seal holder and the block), and I speak from experience on several EJ22 motors here. Also, check for an oil leak at the cover plate on the right rear cam hole. This is a metal cover on the EJ22 held on by two 10mm bolts, and it removes with your fingers IF you pull absolutely straight out. The O-ring gets replaced, and end of oil leak.

Thinking of swapping engines in my 98 Forester-- has a EJ25 with medium piston slap when cold, and a 5 speed trans. Have a good EJ22 in a 94 Legacy with bad auto trans. From the many posts here, looks like the EJ22 engine will bolt up once I swap over the flywheel and pilot bearing, but what about the exhaust? I can handle the intake plumbing, but I am concerned if the SOHC and DOHC heads have the same exhaust pipe bolted to them? Or am I setting myself up for some custom exhaust work? Thanks in advance for your help-- I am still a newbie on Subarus.

Have a 98 Forester with EJ25 DOHC and 5 speed (AWD). The transmission was damaged when I bought the car used. I have located a 95 Legacy SW with EJ22 and 5 speed (AWD). Suspect the final drive ratios are different between the Legacy and the Forester. Will the 95 Legacy trans and rear diff swap into the Forester, or is there something that would stop me, such as different lengths of transmissions, mismatched mounts? The Legacy has a cable clutch, while the Forester has a hydraulic clutch-- hopefully this can be swapped. Thanks for your help!

Would appreciate some help from others. Have heard in the distant past there were many problems with Subaru 5 speed trans running synthetic oil, and trashing the final drive gears. Is anyone out there running synthetic oil in their 5 speed, and if so, what year of car and what brand of synthetic? Thank you in advance.

Thanks for the link and pdf file-- will replace this bolt and report back. I was suspecting it was something strange, 'cuz it only rattles in gears 2 thru 5, and you hear it from the transmission tunnel inside the car-- no noise outside. Again, thanks to all of you.

Been under there-- all heat shields OK, both on exhaust piping and over the catalyst. Car is from Western Washington-- no rust under there, factory exhaust all the way back, including muffler.

I am a survivor of a tie rod end separation at 50 MPH in downtown Detroit freeway. Not funny, but the car and I survived. Please, if you see ANY movement/freeplay in the tie rod end, replace the unit with new. Removing a used unit often damages the screw threads where it attaches to the steering knuckle. I agree, most Subarus I see in the wrecking yards have their entire factory steering system intact. But, if you question the quality of your tie rod ends, please replace them. Before you are typing to us from a hospital bed.

Recently bought a 98 Forester with 5 spd and 2.5 DOHC motor, 145,000 mi. Nice car, but..... mysterious rattle coming from up front whenever power is applied in 2,3,4,5th gears. Can be light or heavy throttle, same sound. Sound alters slightly if you push/pull on the gearshift lever. Does not rattle when in First or Reverse. Does not change if turning or going straight. Does not rattle when coming down on compression. Rattle is road speed dependent-- rattles faster the faster I drive, regardless of engine speed. Checked all 4 halfshafts, and the driveshaft-- all seems well. This thing sounds like the front U joint behind the transmission is ready to come out of the car-- but all U joints are tight. The frequency of the rattle suggests driveshaft. Yes, I checked the oil in the gearbox-- level is OK, and gearshift feel is smooth, positive, and excellent. Put in new spark plugs-- no change. Engine runs great, with excellent power. Help!

Greetings from Doktorbill. You have exactly described the symptoms when the MAF started getting sick on my wife's 87 Buick Park Avenue with 3.8 V6 and crank-triggered ignition. After replacing everything else (all sensors, car computer, coil pack, etc.), tried a rebuilt MAF. Problem solved. See if you can get a MAF for your car out of a junkyard for fairly cheap-- otherwise try one or more of the parts houses for a rebuilt unit with warranty. If you are good at whining, see if one of your friends/neighbors has a Subaru with a compatible MAF-- you just remove the air cleaner lid and MAF, swapping to your car for a test, then put the good one back, and buy that person a nice dinner. At least you have pinpointed the problem.