drugh
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Posts posted by drugh
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Body: 1992 Loyale Wagon
Engine 1993 legacy 2.2 (Harness stripped by Suberdave)
Transmission: 5sp ea82 4wd
Suspension: King Springs with KYB GR2's
Wheels: Stock Motion Wheels for now. I need to burn them up so I can rationalize new tires for the 14" pugs steelies in my basement.
Other: GL-10 rear discs.
The final product is worth it.
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I am no expert, but...
Try removing the plastic paneling on the underside of the steering column. This allows access to the wire terminals on the ignition switch. Check for voltage into the switch, and also test voltage out of the switch in the accessory, on , and start positions.
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Next time its up to temp and its running rough, unplug the CTS to see if anything changes. I had a CTS go bad once, and it actually ran better with the sensor unplugged (until the new one arrived).
Also, in the Haynes manual, there are specs for the resistance of that sensor at different temps. That woud also be worth looking into.
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I started my first swap about 3 weeks ago, and it is 99% finished except for a few small details. I have Suberdave trim my wiring harness, which was a really good descision in retrospect.
I think the electrical is where people get hung up and then the project stalls out.
Amazing increase in power, and overall a much smoother ride.
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+1
make sure the inner DOJ joint of the cv axle isn't bad - classic signs of a failing inner DOJ are noises/vibration on acceleration.I just had this problem a month ago and it was a bad CV
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You might have connected the EJ ECU to the wrong side of the fuel pump relay. Are you using the EJ or the EA fuel pump relay?
I did my EJ swap last week and this happened to me when I first hooked everything up.
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I got some used mounts from a junk yard that were in good shape. I made some wedge shaped washers from 3x3x3/8" plate. They are tapered from the 3/8" on one edge to zero on the opposite edge. I drilled a hole in the center and had to grind the rear corners so they would fit flat in the recess in the cross member. I also had to take a hammer to the cross member and completely flatten the step on the upper or outer side of the recess to allow clearance for the mount. It fits good.
Those tapered shims look like a great idea. I am finishing up my EJ22 Loyale, and I have driven it about 5 miles and one of the mounts already sheared in half. I will get some new mounts and make some shims using your dimensions. Thanks.
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2376736810.html
Here you go!
Based on my recent experience with this, it is VERY nice to pull everything from the donor car in the comfort of your own garage.
This is my first EJ swap, so I am not exactly working at lightspeed, but it would not be very fun to grab all of these parts from a pick and pull.
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Take a few tools with you and do a quick compression check on the EJ22. I know this doesnt tell you everything about the condition of the block, but its a good start and it only takes a few minutes.
I am finally getting started on EJ swapping my loyale and I did this 2 weeks ago with a donor car. It was high mileage (210K), but it ran ok, had good compression, and it was very close to my house.
Good luck.
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Loose axle nut.
It did not end up being a loose nut and it never was. I always torque to 150 and then go until the next notch in the castle nut.
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yep, this is how it goes with aftermarket axles. glad you got it figured out.
how did you determine which side? you could tell kind of which side it was?
It was the drivers side, and I remember thinking that the inner joint felt "tight" when I installed it...like it was binding up when I moved it around.
I didnt worry about it, and hoped that it would loosen up after driving for a little while. This of course didnt work out.
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yep, this is how it goes with aftermarket axles. glad you got it figured out.
how did you determine which side? you could tell kind of which side it was?
It was the drivers side, and I remember thinking that the inner joint felt "tight" when I installed it...like it was binding up when I moved it around.
I didnt worry about it, and hoped that it would loosen up after driving for a little while. This of course didnt work out.
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The EMPI axle was indeed bad.
I installed the old one with no grease left and a torn boot and the vibration dissappeared completely.
Lesson learned.
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Well, the EMPI axle was indeed bad.
There is ZERO vibration after I installed the old axle with no grease and a torn boot.
I guess I will be returning the bad EMPI and ordering up an MWE from colorado.
Lesson learned.
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You think the EMPI axles were shot immediately? They were new in the box. I know they arent as good as MWE or OEM, but I would hope that they work OK for a little while.
Is there any way to verify a bad CV besides swapping it out?
Thanks for the input.
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Oh and the balljoints and rod ends are newish also.
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92 Loyale, 5sp 4wd single range, 170K
I have been experiencing a shaking of the transmission/shifter that is getting worse. I can feel a strong vibration during hard acceleration in lower gears. If I am gentle on the gas, it is barely noticable. This happens when the clutch is fully disengaged.
I have installed lots of new parts on this car.
Within the past year, it has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, and shifter bushings. Manual transmission fluid is 15K old and it "looks" ok.
Within the past couple weeks it has 2 new EMPI front CV axles, new front wheel bearings and seals, new rotors and pads all around, new shocks and tophats with king springs.
I was thinking that it might have been a clogged fuel filter, so I put a new one in yesterday and it defintely helped, but the bad vibration is still there.
Tranny mounts and engine mounts "look" intact.
Also, this problem seems to almost go away entirely in 4wd (as a test, I am not driving around like that)
The car drives great with all of these new parts, but I cant get this vibration to go away! Its slowly getting worse!
Anyone have any ideas here? I plan on changing the tranny fluid to see if that helps.
What is the bad actor here?
Thanks
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Did your pads fall apart in pieces like mine did. I didnt order new clips so i didnt use them. The ones that go on the pad not the ones on the caliper so hopfully i wont regret that deciion. QUOTE]
Mine had the caliper clips, and they seemed to have worked OK.
My pads were OK, but when I originially did the conversion I was in a hurry and I threw on used rotors but I didnt get them turned. The rotors were deepy grooved and making nasty noises, so I put on new pads and rotors. I have never had good luck with getting rotors turned. They seem to always warp quickly, so I got new ones and hopefully they will last a while.
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I am glad its 145 ft lbs because I did the disk swap about 1.5 years ago and I tightened to 145 ft lbs.
I was putting on new pads and rotors yestersday, and I wondered if it should be that tight.
Thanks.
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What is the correct torque for the rear castle nut after a disc brake sawp? When the original rear drums were installed, it was 36 ft lbs(then the fine adjustment with a spring scale). The fronts are 145 ft lbs but that is different wheel bearing design.
In the USRM writeup, it says 145 ft lbs for the rear after a disc brake swap...but that doesnt seem right.
Sorry if this is a stupid question. I dont want to toast my wheel bearings.
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So you think you can set up the alignment with the King Springs so that it wont eat tires?
You might just be seeing my car here in a couple months.
Yes I am in North Bend WA.
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Ive got a 92 loyale 4WD wagon and my shocks are worn out. I have replaced shocks in previous loyales with new Monroes (kept the stock springs) and I was not overly satisfied with the results. This combination is still pretty mushy in the corners, especially with several people or lots of gear in the car.
I am considering a set of King Springs from Primitive racing, and I am wondering if the standard height springs will make too much positive camber in the front tires for daily driver use. I would be ordering the standard height springs, which still lift the car "slightly." I wouldn't be worried except the EA82s already have a lot of positive camber in the front.
I know there has been lots of research with other springs and suspension for EA82s. I also know that a loyale is never going to handle that great.
I am looking for some sort of improvement, and as long as I dont burn through tires I will be happy.
Thanks
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You can also verify if the engine temp sensor is broken by plugging in an approproate resistor into the plug for the sensor. The Chiltons manual has the resistance that the sensor should be when the engine is warm.
This way you can buy a new sensor and you can be sure that your problem will be fixed.
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Long story, but my rear main engine seal crapped the bed.
While I am fixing it and I have the trans out I would like to replace the output shaft seal and the seals on the front diff around the stub axles...they all leak slightly.
Does anyone have part numbers for these items?
Also, the front seals sit behind a lip and it looks like they will be difficult to get back in the right place. Anyone have any hints for these?
Split motor mounts on an EJ22>Loyale swap
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
I had a buddy machine some shims similar to jelly mans...and installed the group N square mounts.
Also, I rigged up a mount to use the pitch stopper from the donor legacy, along with the tabs on the SJR adapter.
The Group N mounts defintely transmit more vibration to the chassis at idle...but they feel great while driving and shifting.
The EJ22 is now firmly anchored and ready to be abused.
What is the solution for the soft EA82 tranny mounts?