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Drewgarth

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About Drewgarth

  • Birthday 10/10/1976

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. Thanks. i think you are close to spot on. Referring to my other reply, i suspect part of my problem has been the flexing of the moulding after roof racks (long since removed)....though in my case it doesnt come in when driving, only when parked and only around the pillars. You are right though, it does appear like the windows and/or rubber weatherstops are leaking, but that's not the case. Cheers Drew
  2. Thanks for that, I "think" i have got closer to the problem. I figured out how to ease the trim/moulding off the roof along the front enough to inspect. That trim butts up to a small chanel in the actual roof itself, together it forms a chanel for water to run along. For most of the length of each door, that trim wraps around to the inside of the door frame. At the pillars between the two doors however it is cut away and relies on a high density foam "seal"....What seems to be happening, is that if the car is parked a certain way, and the rain is sustained, the water runs down into the sill/gutter on the roof, and then seeps passed the foam between the trim moulding and the roof itself. The water then wicks inside and comes out on the inside of the rubber weathersheild. After carefully cleaning everything i have tried adding silicone sealant strategically before reassembly to see if that helps. Looking at the design im surprised more people havent found the problem. I guess it's a combination bad luck along with the age and slow deterioration of all things rubber/foam over time. cheers Drew
  3. Hi Guys, I have a slow leak on both sides of the car that seems to be between the actual roof and the Sill. From what i can tell it is not leaking between the window and the window weather seal. It's actually coming on on the inside of the weather sheild. Has anyone experienced this before? and/or had any good fixes. I would like to take off the Sills and clean and maybe silicone back into place, however i cant figure out how to remove the sills any help appreciated cheers Andrew
  4. Thanks for the reply, With regard to it being on its last legs its based on a couple of things. I checked it a while ago per the instructions on your website (still my most handy reference..thankyou ...at the time i didnt find anything particularly wrong...However. The check engine light keeps giving code 42...which is idle circuit and from what i understand is part of the TPS in the 90. On certain throttle settings the car gives really eratic behaviour...revs falling away then the car surges...Its quite uncomfortable and causes the cruise control troubles as well.. Before buying a TPS i was going to check the TPS again per the instructions... Hopefully you may have some other areas to investigate thanks Andrew
  5. Hi Folks, I have a 1990 Legacy and the Throttle Position Sensor is on its last legs. Can anyone recomend one of the online subaru parts vendors that you have had good dealings with? thanks in advance Cheers Andrew
  6. Thanks for that. That was the one i had in mind..... so now i dont know whether to give it a try on mine. Sounds like its not really worth it. Probably better to do things like replace old MAF sensors to improve engine response i guess. cheers Andrew
  7. Hi folks, a while ago i stumbled on a website for someone that was produced kits that corrected that early model legacy (mine is 1990) flat spot on aceleration. Evidently the knock sensor "hears" a knock when it isnt so it retards the ignition too far. The kit "filters" the noise allowing the knock sensor to funciton properly. Does anyone know of the link to the site? My HardDisk died a while ago and i lost my bookmarks. Does anyone have experience with the particular kit? or any other solutions for this problem? cheers Andrew
  8. Thanks, Ok, i have reset the computer, and now i will wait a while and see what happens... One question i do have though, is does the '90 have two speed sensors of just the one. According to the codes on your site, it was pulsing code 33, which is vehicle speed sensor 2...According to my manual wiring diagram there is no speed sensor 2 in the '90 to 94 models, and the one that is there, is only in the cruise control circuit... If there is a Speed Sensor 2, is it located at the same place on the speedo..?...If it only has one, then what is code 33? :-) If you folks havnt guessed i have been putting off dealing with a heap of issues in my soobie and now im in a mood to sort out all the gremlins :-) cheers Andrew
  9. I will give it a try, can the TCU be cleared by pulling power from the battery for a while? Or what is the best way to clear the TCU? cheers Andrew
  10. The car has 238000km, but i had the tranny rebuilt only about 20,000km ago (i dont think they touched the torque converter though). Worst part about it is, the place that did the rebuild (they do a lot of Subarus) is an hour and a half away, so i cant just drop in and let them have a drive :-( I just checked and there are no current codes on the Tranny, but it is reporting Vehicle Speed Sensor 2 as a Previous code... I have no idea if that would contribute to the problem. Thanks Josh for your comments..
  11. Hi folks, a little while ago, i was complaining of problems with my Idle Switch in the TPS...Having resolved (well tested the switch satisfactorily anyway) that issue, one of the cars symptoms still remains. At anywhere between 35 and 50 mph, if you take your foot slowly off the thottle until its almost completely off....(Coasting along a long flat road for example). The engine revs will kick up and down between 1500 and 2100 rpm (@35mph). So pull your foot off a fraction too far and it drops to 1500 and then apply the throttle a little and str8 back to 2100... Now its not kicking up and down gears, as dropping out of D into 3, results in 2400ish.. So its like the torque converter kicking in and out or something. My basic question is, is this likely to still be a problem in the TPD or another sensor or something wrong with the Torque Converter. Any tests or places to start with this diagnosis would be appreciated. One thing i would like to understand, is how does the ECM interpret the idle switch at speed. If for example, throttle position is switching between idle switch on and idle switch off, what does the ECM actually do.. Also, tried setting the cruise control...Speed sits rock solid at 35Mph, but the revs slowly (and sometimes not so slowly) drift between 1700 rpm and 2000rpm...and the car has this awkward surging sensation to it.....:-( hope someone can help :-) cheers Andrew
  12. Funny, you should mention the south of the equator bit....we were having that laugh at work :-) Well i have been driving it for a few days now and no more check engine light... Driving in flowing traffic is back to being smooth on a trailing throttle and the idle is better :-) So looks like the problem is fixed...although because the fault was intermitant, i wont break out the champagne until i have driven it a bit longer :-) thanks for everyones help :-)
  13. Thanks Josh, i was going off the link on your page http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html#tps which is the same as my manual... After you pointed out that the Idle Switch was part of the TPS, i was using my manual (Haynes) Unforunately, i cant check your links here at work...our firewall wont let me get out on port 8080...i will have a look at home. But if your link says the opposite to my manual and the other link on you page. i would believe it...given thats what i measured :-) cheers Andrew
  14. OK checked out the TPS last night.... Its upposed to lose continuity with a 0.7mm feeler between the stop screw and the stopper... Mine was losing continuity a little under 0.6mm... So i have adjusted it....Now we will wait and see it might solve some of my problems :-)...such as fluctuating idle etc Now the puzzling bit...The manual says to back probe the TPS for voltages...Only trouble is i get exactly the opposite voltages than whats in the manual.. According to the manual i should be getting 0.7 to 1.x volts with throttle fully closed and about 4.8 volts fully open... Im getting about 4.8 closed and 0.9 fully open. Is the manual wrong??? Because i cant imagine the TPS working at all if it was truly inverted. cheers Andrew
  15. Wow, thanks :-) thats a more detailed response than i was ever hoping for :-) Cheers...I will have a look over the weekend and let you know what i find Just out of interest, do you know what the physical symptoms of the TPS playing up are? or are there too many symptoms making it difficult to describe? thanks again Andrew
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