gdcpony

Thanks, I will dig back into it tonight and see if I can find a new leak. Also I will go through my rather immense and horribly organized washers to see if I have a shim that might work. The pedal assembly is probably the most expensive, so I might save that for last.

I have a Outback 2005 5MT. I just changed my driveshaft to fix a bad U-joint. It is freshly tuned up with full fluid changes (including rear diff and trans), plugs, wires, ect. There is no CEL or any indication of issues. This problem occurred intermitently before, but now it is constant. I engage the cruise and the car pulses acceleration wise. If I let it continue, it cuts out and blinks at me, yet clears on next restart. No code remains to read. The MPG will reflect the pulsing to the tune of 5mpg or so. I would normally lube up my cables and see if that fixes it, but there are none. The pedal is a little stiff, but not what I would consider bad enough to cause issues. Also I have little info on how the cruise works on this model and the Haynes manual is vague. I have searched for a vacuum leak and found none. Can someone guide me to the next step here?

Nice tool. looks like they will sell the size, but not that exact tire. I use this tire on my truck in a much larger size (315 series) and man do they go in the snow. Not to mention they wear like a a dedicated road tire. 30k and they still look like an AT tire with 4-5k.

while I am at it, I am looking at putting some Cooper AT3's in 225/70/16 on. think they will clear?

163k. Turned out to be a U-joint. Now where can I find a 5spd replacement with serviceable joints?

So I have a 2005 Outback 2.5i 5spd that has a big vibration that I cant track down. It begins around 30mph and is worst at 40mph. It seems too fast to be a tire, doesn't alter with engine speed. If I coast in gear, it goes away. If I coast in neutral, it is still there. If I am on the gas, acceleration or steady it is there as well. The clutch does the same as neutral. It is bad enough to distort the mirrors to uselessness. I am going to lose fillings soon. can anyone give me a test to do? For some stupid reason I had CV nut come lose on me right off in a parking lot, and thought "that explains it!". So I replaced a wheel bearing and the shaft. thinking that this must have been the source of the vibration. Nope. Before I go dumping more money into this, can someone help me out? I have checked bearings all the way around, rotated tires, balanced them, and changed rear and trans fluids (rear looked good inside).

Covered the test drive part. I ran the KBB and got 5550 with the -50 from the CarFax. But that was "good condition" private seller so not too reliable.

got it. thanks. I will call tomorrow.

I would jump on that Baja were you in my area. Sorry you aren't. No Baja's at all for my price range in any condition in this area. I would stretch the budget a little for that one though. Looks nice. Must be location. Here all Subi's are pricey.

Sorry for the long post. I hope you bare with it. 2002 Legacy Outback Well I drove it today and it was great. the typical slight tapping I have come to expect from Subis, but great ride and behavior. Color is blue/silver with every option minus moonroof and leather (the leather is actually one I hate anyways). Still has all the mats, the little holder in the wheel well, owners manual, and all the little things you expect to be gone by this time (even a sales brochure with the clor combo it is circled!). All the features work right down to the CD player (yep, I brought one just to test it). The body has no rust at all (rare for Ohio), the mechanical parts have some light rusting on the brackets and such, but nothing I have not seen worse in them. I crawled as far under as I could looking for signs of any leakage (wet gaskets, seals, ect.) and found none. The CarFax shows it to be a three owner, but the last two are the dealer it is at and a guy who kept it for all of two months. It also shows oil changes every month and a half at a dealer as well as tune ups and inspections. It also shows every little bit if maintenance I am used to seeing owners skip. The tranny fluid and filter, timing belt, even tire rotations were apparently recorded. The only negative it shows is an accident in '03 with rear damage inspected by the same dealer. There are a few things with it. It is missing the driver's side fog lamp guard. The paint is worn off the running board right where the driver's foot would rub as he got in and out. There are a couple of VERY slight gaps in the panels that I wouldn't have noticed had I not been looking for problems. I don't see the diff fluid in the report either so MAYBE they got skipped. The big item is the mileage. Obviously, it was used for a long commute or as a driving vehicle. It has 177k on it. Normally, a wise man would walk away right then, but its condition and the way it looked (I love the blue) made me look closer. The fact that all my vehicles have 120k+ on them and my old 88 Chevy truck has 220K on it plus the other vehicles I have had go over the 200k mark probably helped out a bit. I know Subi's are notoriously long lived, but how long lived? How big of a hit is this? The asking price is $5990. I have $6000 to spend from the sale of another car (my last flirtation with a Mustang is at and end, ending nearly 2 decades of having one in my garage). I was thinking of offering between $5k and $5500 out the door and see if he takes it. We are ready to sign the check as soon as the wife approves of it (mileage scares her too, and she has yet to see it), and the price is reached The goal is to get the wife to like the car well enough to part with her Exploder which will soon eat us out of house and home getting it's 13mpg. It's a V-6 too! The 350 in my truck does better (20+ with no load). Then maybe I can get another one (I like Subis after one good one my wife made me sell cause it "looked like a granny car").

OEM is what I am looking for. I'd prefer to get a decent used set ($), but I guess new will have to do since no one is changing theirs out. I had hoped to do it on the cheap. It is a work car after all. The only real upgrade I had planned was KYB's and maybe the swaybars (if I couldn't get a factory set off an OB). Everthing else I hope to make use of OEM parts that my poor Brighton was not given.

Thanks. Any ideas where I can grab a set of springs? I can't seem to find them.

Ok, I have a few ideas about a swap for my 96 Brighton. I was thinking of some KYB's for an Outback, springs for the same, camber bolts, and 225/60/r16's. Later, I plan to get some better swaybars (possibly Outback as well?), brakes, and then wait till the engine blows (swap that then since I'll have an excuse for the wife). I need to know what parts (years, #'s, ect) to use. I have no idea what inter changes on Legacies and Outbacks, though I know they are basicly the same car. I would rather not mess with body spacers if I can avoid it. Any help out there?

I planned on having new tires put on those rims. My current fluid is Valoline synthetic. I flushed the whole system when i replaced the mastercyl. The pads are whatever the previous owner put on. I know they are not worn even 1/4 of the way down. The rotors and drums are good too. I want chuck the rear assy in favor of a disc setup, but I don't know what fits from subi to subi. That is where I need allot of help. For example is this a good deal? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-Subaru-Impreza-GF8-Wagon-Disc-Brake-Conversion_W0QQitemZ110038315316QQihZ001QQcategoryZ42605QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I just do not know.

I'm currently training in 29 Palms, CA. so shipping wouldn't be too bad. My 14's have to go. Especially with the brake upgrade. I drive every car to the limit. This is brakes are usually one of the first things I do. This thing has so much travel in the pedal already that I replaced the Master cylinder even though everyone swears its normal. That didn't work so on to the next step.

Thanks, The RS setup is what I'm aiming at. I located some rims if they will work. Found some callipers from an RS. Still looking Will these fit a Legacy wagon? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170034509187&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1

My 96 Brighton has the worst factory brakes I have ever seen. I'm thinking of converting to all disk and maybe getting a larger set of front rotors. I already know I will be getting a set of Outback rims (16"), and new rear spindles. What else will I need to make this work? I can't afford a whole kit so this will be a junkyard or Ebay swap.

Tach is in works great. It was really simple. New stereo in same deal. The cruise is in, but I can't figure out why it doesn't work. It's probably a simple thing, and really getting to me! Could some post some pics of their setup? Maybe I missed something obvious. I have a 96 Legacy Brighton Wagon.

When you use your light where do you hook the two leads? One to a ground and the other to the terminal? If so try hooking the ground lead to the other end of the line (the second contact for the bulb would do). There may be a difference. It should light then too.

With a simple light you can't tell how much actual current you have. I can break out my Fluke and tell you what I got at the lights, but that won't help if you don'thave one too to test at the trailer. If you wired them in "series" then voltage is additive (you're splitting up the 12V into smaller voltages and the lights won't light). If you wired in "parallel" then amps are additive (you're only sending a little current to each and the lights may be dim or won't light). The test light only looks to see one or the other volts or current not both. If you are in parallel the a larger fuse in the fuse box for the tail lights would fix the problem by allowing more to be drawn. The fuse box terminals are usually wired in parallel as well which is why it is that the amps an alternator puts out that matters in powering a car. The 20' of wire should have no effect on the bulb brightness. How the wires are run will. A simple test is to pull a bulb in the same circuit, or line. If they all go out then you are wired in series. If not you are in parallel (think X-mas lights). You would want the other bulbs to stay on (or in your case to turn on when one is removed. You can only get 12V and the lights need every V to light. However, they can draw extra amps through the line (up to a point) if they have that. I know this was lengthy, but it actually the simplest way to explain it. I'll check in tomorrow if you would like. Tell me if you want me to test mine.

Well, I kinda figured that, so I have went over three other cars to see their setup, disected the wiring diagram and ohmed out the switches. I can't find my mistake, but am still looking.

These parts ended up free. I couldn't turn that down. So far I've scored a luggage rack, hood scoop, instrument panel, and a few other odds and ends for my wife's gr am. I keep a good relation with the guy and barely ever have a problem with his parts. If I find what is wrong I simply need to exchange it. I bet it is my install. I'll recheck it tomorrow. I have a brighton, automatic, AWD. I connected all that you listed save for the clutch switch. I got the switch to light up when on but nothing beyond that.

Installedall the parts from a 96 legacy wagon. It doesn't work. All the harnesses matched up and everything fit right in. I'm continuing to troubleshoot, but any help would be appreciated.

Ok, so going by the Haynes wiring diagram for cruise; I need the cruise pump, cr. control unit, stop/brake switch, cruise main switch, cruise sub switch, and a couple fuses. Does anyone know where these things are in the car? I know the sub switch, main switch, and I think the pump is the underhood unit. I wouldlike to pull these next weekend and install them the one after. I'll take pics if I can get this sorted out. I got free reign to pull any cruise part for $25 at a local yard. So long as the wiring is there it seems like a snap. I can see the one for the pump under the hood hanging so maybe the rest are there too. If anyone has any input I'd appreciate it before I tear into my work car. Also, I get to pull the cluster w/tach (another $20). Is there a pigtail connector in the rear that may have the wire from the ECM in it? If so, tell me and I'll sacrofice another Sunday to take pics of that too. (or do both at once)

I have asked around and if what I hear is correct, all Leg's are wired the same (within the same year anyways). Does this mean that all I need to install options on mine is the components? The wires are there and just need plugged in? Primarilly, I'm talking the cruise control, tachometer, and foglights. If that is the case then Subaru is years ahead of the game. I found some empty wire connectors in areas that would hook up under the hood, but are they all there? If I punch out the right slot in the dash will there be a connector there waiting for a switch? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.