leon

thanks alot for the info guys can anyone second this opinion? yes i am using a regular multimeter, but i cant get a continuity buzz even when i test the clean end of the circuit (on the connecter side to the coolant sensor) - i thought maybe the ignition has to be on , is this the case? does anyone know a good estimate on how much a sensor will cost? thanks again

Hi guys. I ve been running really rich lately, till the point where after 30 mins of driving the spark plugs are so fouled up that the engine dies out. So i figured it must be my coolant sensor (since the ecu codes tell me ). I pulled out my trusty multimeter and tested no resistance at all in the sensor. I figured it must be broke? i tested the rest of the circuit not including the sensor and still cant get any continuity. Has anyone got any ideas other than following the wires into the maze they dive into? And how do i take out the sensor with a regular toolkit? (its a very tight fit). thanks for yours help

Just to let you guys know, if i did have the FT4wd or AWD i probably wouldnt have done this. However, saying that, personally i favour rwd over fwd over a binding gearbox. Another good reason is to make my car unique...how many other rwd subaru's do u see? I know in essence some might say i'm mutilating my subaru, but i don't see it like that. Call me crazy, but driving in rwd seems alot faster than when i used to drag my 4wd system on the straightway.

i have my box removed altogether and have a 4.5 inch k&N jammed in there (barely fits) - there is a nice rushing of air sound on throttle

a bit off topic but i bought it like that they dont come stock its an autobarn one just been welded on and had some of the bonnet cut out.looks ugly if u ask me but its functional so...

Hey everyone. Thanks to the infinite wisdom of the members of USMB i have finished my conversion to rwd. Just some info about my car Ea82 turbo mpfi with the fwd partime 4wd box. Because it doesnt have the center diff i didnt have to weld anything. if i am correct it comes with the 3.7 lsd stock. i just took the cv axles out about an hour (i am a novice) each and the bearings came out real easy with a good hit. [check USRM : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49959] Advantages: Handling - the car has suprisingly alot more speed in corners, instead of understeering it keeps traction alot longer before sliding out. It is capable of awesome burnouts and some really shakey drifting (suspension needs work). Disadvantages: because of the skinny tires (13 inch wheels) the car understeers and oversteers depending on steering angle and throttle position. it takes a good driver to balance it out. caution: i was warned i might be tearing some diffs or breaking some axles when i was doing the conversion - i am running 10 psi top mount cooled with 2.5 turboback, have been on rwd for about 2 months now and no problems. This thread is not intended as a gloat but as an interest for others. Hope its inspired someone out there.

what about code 12 - starter switch off. is that normal?

Hi peeps. I got a 85 EA82T with the ecu codes 12 and 33. I know these stand for -starter switch off and - coolant sensor or circuit. The car has been running rich lately. Is the first code normal? What does it mean? And just to confirm is the coolant sensor the one near the radiotor top hose and aav or is it the one inbetween that and the knock sensor. I know both measure temperature but i get confused

ever since i had a new engine installed i have had my ecs light on, it used to drive fine so i wasnt worried about it until the other day it turned off when i was driving and the rpms dropped very quickly (if i didnt throttle down it would die). the light flickered on and off. whenever it was off the car drove like it was on 3 cyclinders. driving home the car started playing up badly and i would break down at every traffic light. it started blowing copius amounts of black smoke. a pedestrian said my car is running bloody rich!! i recently changed the disi cap and it fixed alot of problems. so i decided to do the spark plugs. next day the ecs light was on like normal and the car drove better...i noticed a circle of soot where my exhaust is on the garage wall. its still running rich i only managed to change 3 spark plugs coz the driver side front has the inlet manifold too close to the socket (has anyone had problems with this) i am also running a motorbike battery - charging it the cheap way apart from the battery and the spark plug the only thing i can think of is maybe the fuel injectors or spark leads or maybe the aav - it is kinked a bit. the reason i think the aav might be involved is because the idle drops to about 400 when warm and starts cold as normal has anyone got any ideas?? im pulling my hair out

can anyone else confirm this? the last thing i want to do is tear up my gearbox. did this car have the center diff in it? coz mine does not. i called up the subaru specialist and they gave me a quote for 200 dollars (Aus). so it looks like the next sunny weekend i will pull out the toolkit and start hacking away

With the pin at the DOJ i know its a 3/16 punch, but i went to the local car shop and they said i m gonna have to go to a tool specialist. is it possible to use anything more common - like maybe a nail or screwdriver etc.?

thanks for the info, i have been trying to find out some history for a while, it was in pretty bad shape when i bought it. i do call the subaru shop every week for advice, i think i ll pop over there after what you said. p.s we should catch up

Hi Chris. i believe it is the same one. why how where did u know that?

sweet ride, not too sure about the eyelids, but i was thinking about doing them on my car. check out my ride if you havent already http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=2&ppuser=19187 i dont want to steal your thunder. i am heading for the same vein as you though. i found that to4 turbo you were mentioning for 600 dollars on ebay. my next mods are rwd. ram air intake oil cooler. keep me posted as too what you do

be carefull with that. i had the same diagnosis as what you said and i was driving one day and my engine just starting blowing heaps of smoke. i took it too the mechanics and they told me my heads had been cracked for some time which would have caused the heat - not trying to alarm you or anything :-\