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Sarge

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Posts posted by Sarge

  1. Difficulty level..... meduim I suppose. There's lots of little parts, but as long as you leave the carb on the car, it shouldn't be too much of a problem as you can't really drop anything.

     

    There are some very, very small cotter pins that need removing to dissasemble, but the kit should come with replacements.

     

    I can tell you that as far as difficulty, installing a Weber is easier. ;)

     

    GD

     

     

    I'd love to install a Weber but I don't have $350 to put into that at the moment. you know where I can get one cheaper?

  2. My experience with Interco is limited to tires you don't Normally see on Roos, such as 33s 35s 36s etc. but I know that these larger tires are actually 2 inches shorter than they are labeled.

    If any of you need to know any actual tire sizes that Firestone puts out I can get that info for ya, I work for them... I have our tire guy looking for a semi-aggressive set of 215/75- 15s at the moment.

  3. Yeah Numbchux, I know that actual tire size depends on the manufacturer. All of the Interco tires are actually 2 inches shorter than their labeled size. We figured that out when we were fitting 33's and 35's on my buddy's Taco. I'm glad you mentioned that though cuz I forgot about that. that should help with the fit-up. Thanks

  4. I am gonna have to get another car to lift anyway, I had my car on a 2-post lift sunday to change the oil. I was checking out the bottom and decided there is way more floor pan patching than I originally figured. I might as well replace the entire underside of the car. that is why I decided to just run the wheels and tires until I can get another car to lift, then swap whatever I need off of this one. I don't want to junk it, I am considering some type of tube frame buggy when all is said and done. And not to sound :mad: or anything, but I just asked if anyone knew if I could run 15x7 outlaws or not, and what the biggest tire was I could run with moderate pounding and cutting. I didn't ask for a million dead donkeys and a bunch of people telling me what and why I should do something. I just simply asked if it was possible and if so, How.

  5. No, I ain't skeered of using a BFH for a little persuasion. not a prob. I just figure I will have to rest my foot a little higher while I'm cruisin. How much do I have to worry about offset and backspacing with wheels? check out the Outlaw-II rims on summit and tell me if ya think they will fit ok. they are 15x7s

    . If they won't work I will have to see if the j/y has a wheel pile down here.

  6. I was leaning towards the 27x9.50 TSL SSRs and if y'all look at my pics you can see how much fender I have left... in reguards to all of you who want me to get a lift, I would love to put one on if y'all are willing to buy it and ship it to me. Right now I am in college and I am tired of catchin so much crap for my car, so I was gonna go ahead and put the wheels and tires on it. I am goin to wait till I am out of school in a couple of months to lift it so I have the Roo at home and a shop to work in.

  7. I'm not looking to open the flow up too much from stock, I'd like to regain some scavenging if I could. I was curious as to what size should the duals be to be comparable to stock single? And yes, the 2.25 pipe on there now is just towards the back..... it is just wide open because I am running 1 1-7/8" through a gutted cat with no muffler.

  8. You actually will need 1.5" dia. pipe to match the flow area. Figure it out: 1.875 squared is 3.52. 1 squared is only 1! So the flow area will be way less than you have now. 1.5 squared is 2.25, a little better than half of the area you have now, and will work a lot better than the 1" dia. you propose.

     

    Rob.

     

    I just took the stock diameter of 1 7/8" rounded it to 2" and divided by 2. I was goin by diameter, why are you squaring the measurements?

  9. it would work out fine, if you used a x pipe or h pipe in the system...what you trying to do run stacks?

     

    I was actually planning on recessing the 1" pipe into the floor pan a little by beating in somewhat of a small tunnel. Then I was gonna run the duals down both sides under the car and take them into the wheel housings and have them exit through holes just over the rear tires. this may seem pointless to some but I was planning on building separated housings for the pipes as they entered the wheel housings, and it is my attempt to get my exhaust higher to keep it out of mud,water,etc. and still keep it looking clean.

    (And yes, I had already figured on moving the fuel filler neck, before anyone asks). Right now I an running something like stock "manifold" to a gutted '95 Cavalier cat and then straight back, exiting in front of the right rear tire with a 2.25" pipe. I may have lost a little power but it is better than the rusted up/clogged up stock exhaust we cut off, I figure I can't lose anymore power by changing it...

  10. anyone ever run a true dual exhaust on an ea81 hatch,brat,etc.? I know it is 2 into 1 stock with 1 7/8" plumbing, I was wondering if I could run something like dual 1" all the way back by adding an adapter where the collector is. I know this may seem odd on a 4 banger but I have a reason.....

  11. You mean problems like this:

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61260

     

    I had a problem the rear bushings on my hatch being thicker than my wagons.

     

    And as far as the shock mounts, i did away with them and got Gabriels. Autozone has them for $18 a piece, and i like having brand new shocks. These are from a '74 Chevelle and mount up, but are 3" longer than stock so it does away with the shock adapter.

     

    Let me know if you want a part number on the shocks.

     

    -Brian

     

    Do they have any better brands than Gabriel for the 74 Chevelle ? I have gabriels now and I'm really not impressed with the everyday driving on them and my hatch is stock height as it stands.

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