mrwitty_1

Well the new lock cylinder is installed and all is well, no more binding or removing the key while the car is running, that feature had it's benifits...lol The complete job took about 20 minutes including making a special service tool to depress the retaining pin. Thanks for the input from the readers....

Thanks for the input, starting to sound better already ! I'm off Friday and will give it a look. Thanks a million...

I need the forum readers help.. I have to replace the ignition lock cylinder on my 93 Legacy SW it is totally worn out. Is there a easy way to do this ? My repair manuals mention splitting the two half's of the steering column, I have done other vech's that there is a release pin to push on with a small diameter pin and the cylinder will slide out. Please help....thanks

I have replaced the bearing only on my 96 OBW but can't remember the bearing number at this time, will check and post soon if still needed.

I was looking on Ebay and found Subaru Parts Manuals that are listed by series number, I have a 96 Legacy Outback and the manual covers a Legacy (11/1993 - 5/1999) B11 Series. How do you identify the series number ? Thanks

If I remember correctly, once you get the covers off the socket twists out and then it takes a Wagner#194 push in bulb.

Thanks for all the posts. I found the pdf's last weekend and checked my coil as per. the specs. my secondary points were all with in limits at 21.5 ohms, as for the primary points they were not in limits at 1.3 ohms but the temp was around 20*, winter has arrived here in WV. I didn't not replace the coil because both points 1-2 and 2-3 were equal. Now for the interesting thing, the mis-fire condition has disappeared, over a week and no mis-fire codes. I now think it is a current leak in the secondary ign wires regardless of there new appearance. I'll keep everyone posted. Any suggestions on a dealer or supplier for a set of OEM wires at a good price ? Thanks ....

1996 Subaru Outback 2.5 Auto I have developed mis-fire codes for cylinders 1 and 2. I changed sparkplugs and must say I could not find (like the story of Goldielocks) a socket, extension or combination of both to remove or install #4 plug. I checked resistance of the ignition wires, which appear to be new and OEM and all fell with in specs. I still have a repeated misfire code for the same cylinders. I am leaning toward a ignition coil failure, because 1 and 2 share the same pack, but I'm open to suggestions, I have owned many previous Subs and never had a coil failure, but I guess there's a first for everything. I don't drive this car much as it's the wifes car, but it seems to be in colder temps with-in a few miles of driving that it mis-fires. I have never had the mis-fire when I was driving and can not get it to miss (WOW ...a 2.5 winds tight when pushed hard) Anyone know if all 2.2 and 2.5 coil packs are the same? May try having the fuel injectors cleaned but still lean toward a ign. problem. Thanks for any help.

Sorry I didn't get back lastnight. But here is the info as promised... Car.Tool by United Intelligenee Technology Co, Ltd http://www.enUIO.com I purchased mine off Ebay Here is a link # to one on Ebay now : Item number: 160073082050 I love mine for the $15 and have used it on my Subaru's and my GM's Hope this helps

I also have a cheep code reader in the glovebox of my OB. The wife has it at work but I'll post the model and brand tonight. It was less then $40 off ebay, nothing fancy but will pull codes on all OBD II and also has a small book that describes codes and will clear the codes. As for the P0420, I see it way to much also, time for some O2 senors.

I would bet your looking at a bad blower motor resistor, I've been thru a few of these in my life as a Subaru owner. It is located near the blower motor on the left side, it has two screws in it and a multi-plug wire. Remove it and you will find some springs, A coil also acts as a resistor, thats why there are large and small ones, this gives the different speeds. If you need a quick fix, and it is near then end of the spring, just solder it back to the term, it will be at a higher speed but fuctional. If you get a replacement, resist the urge to operate the blower with the resistor out of the housing, it operates at high temps and the blower cools it. Removing the glovebox allows this to be much easier. Good Luck

This is another torque binding question, I have read the forum on this issue from the time I joined the board and have seen it discussed that some have developed binding after a transmission replacement, I too have now discovered that it was about that time that I developed the same, and now have the strange feeling that the trans and the rear diff are not the same ratio. I did look and find that the rear was a 3.900 ratio and now for the $100 question.... what ratios were used in Subaru Transaxles ? I have a 93 Legacy SW and to the best I can recall the new trans was from a Impreza unknown year and the garage that replace the trans has went out of business.I did find some numbers on the trans ..TZ1022A3BA-G9 829464, can it be ID from this number ? or does it mean anything at all. I see that many talk about changing the rear diff to match and that's where I'm headed if I can ID the ratio I need. Thanks A Million .... Congrats to Nipper on the 5000 posts.... You are a true wealth of Subaru knowledge !

I need the wisdom of the members, I have been looking for a set of ventshades for my 96OBW. I have seen them on OB before and thought they were a dealer item, I have looked and few online Sub dealers but still no luck. I know the answer will come from here !

Can anyone advise of a low cost reader that will show real time inputs from the ECM ? I would like one that will be able to read inputs from the O2 Sensor, Coolant Sensor etc. I have a 0420 code that keeps returning and would like to see if it is a lazy 02 sensor or a truly bad cat.

This is a long shot but one never knows until you ask. I purchased a 96 OB Wagon 2.5 DOHC, it was a one owner from the search done with carfax and I feel from the looks of things that it has allways been serviced at a Subaru dealer, all filters and such are Subaru. The wagon has 110,000 miles and I was wondering about the timing belt replacement,without tearing it down to check, which if I did that I might as well replace. The question ....... is there a way to check with Subaru for a maintance record by VIN # ? This could save me from wondering....

I would check the 4 term trailer connector at the car without the trailer connected, If I remember correct there is a white,brown,green and yellow lead, the white wire is a ground and must be hooked to a ground source, with your test light check the connector terminals, place the light clamp on the white term and then check the remaining 3 terms, one should be parking lamps, one left turn and brake and the other right turn and brake, if they work fine there check the ground wire on your trailer. Most people believe that it will ground thru the ball but that is a poor ground !

When the no start condition happens you need to check and see if the starter is receiving power to close the starter relay that is part of the starter. On the starter you should have a large battery wire and also a smaller wire that closes the the starter relay, when it will not start check the smaller wire with a 12 volt test light and see if it is receiving power, it will require one person to turn the ign swith to the start position. Also there should be 12 volt on the larger wire at all times. If there is power on the smaller wire when turned to the start position the trouble is more then likely in the starter, such as a bad spot on the armature or a bad starter relay, most auto parts store can test the starter when off the car. Good Luck ..

Sorry to hear about your trouble Richard, but all is not lost, first question is what happened to cause the bolt to break ? I belive from past timingbelt replacements, if you remove the cooling fans and rad there is a fair amount of room to get at the crankshaft end. I'd go ahead and pull the dampener and remove the belt covers, the bolt may be out some from the crankshaft end and you might get a stud romover to grab onto it and remove it, if not maybe as a last resort a pair of vise grips or even a pipe wench. If it has broken off flush or even down in the crank, I believe it's Lisle Tool or KD Tool makes a remover that is called a Super Out they are like easy-outs but have more gripping splines and are not as brittle as easy-outs. Also I would apply some heat to the bolt to break the Loctite loose before removal, the change the crank seal out. Hope this helps out some, even if it doesn't work out your not out anything but your time and I think it will come out, just be sure if you go with the easy-out type method center punch the bolt as close to center as possible then drill. Keep us posted..

Hello Group. Just was wondering if anyone has ever tore into the P114 radio or the P512 Cd player to try and repair the backlighting ? I guess I'll give it a try soon , but thought I'd ask first. Thanks

Water spray from rad cap... doesn't sound to good for the head gasket(s). Did you check for signs of a external leak or check the oil for a milky look ? Also does there seem to be excessive moisture from the exhaust ? any of these points to the head gasket. what is the mileage ?

Let's start by saying what a great Subaru Forum this is. I have just seen my 96 Legacy Outback light up like the cockpit of a airplane ! Finally I can see what is going on. I just wish I had found the site a little sooner. I paid the $3 bucks each from the dealer for the lamps in the climate control, then found the group and did some reading and went shopping at RadioShack, replaced 4 more lights that were out for the price of one from the dealership. What a great source of info... Thanks to all... I'm so Happy..