PhizzleSubarizzle

OK, so now I started it up and let it run itself up to temperature. The warm-up idle started to run away again so I lightly tapped the gas pedal and it dropped down to the usual 2000 rpm. After it warmed up it seemed to run normally. I didn't drive it more than a mile but it seemed ok, a little weak but that might be psychological.

With the green connector together, the timing mark on the flywheel is in the right place. I haven't been able to get it to run long enough today or yesterday to get it warm, but when the problem was getting worse, it would usually run better when warm, but sometimes I could feel it lag for about 10 to 30 seconds then go back to normal. I did change the fuel filter.

87 GL 4door sedan 1.8L SPFI OK so I've got this problem that has gradually gotten worse:confused: . It started by the motor having trouble running when cold. It seemed like a really bad missfire, but I would shut the car off for a few seconds and restart and the missfire went away but the motor would gradually increase in rpm on its own (I tapped the throttle at 3500rpm and it droped back down to a normal warm-up RPM), after that it ran fine. Then I would start the car when cold, it would idle fine for about 30 seconds and then shut itself off, after this I would restart it and it would run fine. Other times I would run it to warm up and drive down the road and the bad missfire issue would come back while driving, and if I had to stop the car would sputter to a death, then I could start it up and drive it with no problems. Now the car will not idle right (bad missfire feeling), died on me lastnight and would not start for anything (motor turns but not runs). I came back to the car a number of hours later and it started so I drove it home with the same rough running, and now when it sits at (rough) idle when cold it does the gradual rpm increase. Just yesterday I changed all the typical tune up parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter). This solved nothing:mad: . I want to check the timing, but I'm not sure what the "idle control switch" is or where to connect it (according to the haynes manual...worthless manuals by the way:banghead: ) Any ideas would be very helpful.

Ok, here's a good one for all you die hard mechanics out there. I'm in the process of trying to change my axleshaft...for the first time. I am a machinery mechanic by trade so most of this type of work is nothing new to me, but this one really has me stumped. I was trying to drive out the roll pin on the transmission end of the axleshaft with a hammer and punch. My 1/4" punch was just slightly too large for the hole so I used the next smaller size (first mistake). This was working, I managed to drive the pin about one third of the way out before the tapered part of the puch leading to the handle reached the edge of the pin hole and could go no further, but when I went to pull the punch out I found that I had managed to drive it deeply into the middle of the pin...and ohhhh was it stuck:eek: !!! In an attempt to remove the punch, the end broke off and is now in residing inside the roll pin as a permanent resident. I thought that since the pin/punch combo was moving until the punch was too large for the hole that I could just drive it the rest of the way through with another punch (second mistake), this drove the pin about 1/8" further and then stopped dead! Now I realized that the pin/punch was really stuck so I attempted to punch the broken punch back out the other way with a smaller punch that fit inside of the pin, this would not move the punch either and eventually resulted in a broken smaller punch (but this one not stuck). So after a lot of hammering:horse: and frustration I ground my 1/4" punch to the correct size on a bench grinder (which I should have done in the first place, hindsight 20/20) and continued hammering:horse: in either direction to no avail. So the next day (today) I made a special tool of two pieces of metal bolted together with a bolt in the middle with the end ground down to the diameter of the hole in an attempt to push out the pin, this resulted in a broken tool. I tried putting a jack under the punch and jacking it up into the bottom of the pin/punch and this just lifted the tranny until the punch slipped sideways. I tried heating the end of the axle shaft with a heat gun and putting ice on the out end of the roll pin and more hammering:horse: no luck. I tried hacksawing off the protruding end of the roll pin and hammering:horse: the reverse direction, again no luck. I tried using a drill and drilling into the punch (of course no use the punch is hardened) and didn't even make a dent. I am thouroughly stuck:confused: and am at a loss for what to do next and I gotta say I feel pretty dumb because I should have known this would happen in the first place. If i could have had this problem on a benchtop, either bozo the big hammer would come out or I would use a hydraulic press, but since its under the car with limited space and strength, I am stuck. Any ideas are greatly appreciated! Thanx Phill.

Wazzup again all, I recently went to the parts store to get a replacement fusible link for my 87 GL. When I got there I found the fusible links they have on the shelf are rated by wire size, and the ones in my car are listed by ampres. Does anyone know a cross reference for wire size to fusible link ampres? Mush appreesh Phill

figured as much, thanx. Phill

wazzup all:brow: , I have an 87 GL with a 1.8L non turbo front wheel drive. I'm wondering if the voltage regulator is internal on the alternator. Thanx Phill

YO, First I'd like to say thanx to all of you who helped me get my car running again! You are awesome! Ok, so this is something I've never seen before. As soon as I start rolling my speedometer rolls over and pegs out. Have you ever seen a car do 135mph in first gear! Just kidding. Then just before I come to a stop, it finally winds back down to zero. I just replaced the speedometer cable, which was leaking oil from the gauge clulster end of the cable, and this had no effect. If I move very slow, about 5mph, the speedometer will sit about 75mph. Any Ideas? Thanx Phill

SHE RUNS!!!! Hallelujah, it finally runs!!! Ok, so I'm not entirely sure what I did, but here's what happened. I started today by checking my fusable links all but one looked good. The end of the gray one looked toasted like it had blown, but it still had continuity, so I removed it and attached a jumper wire...no luck. I then went on to check various plugs and other things (again) under my dash and decided to remove my computer (as it had been covered in oil from the speedo cable) I opened it up and cleaned it off and put it back in...still no luck. I then remembered the blown fuse (which had blown about four times throughout the week) and replaced it. IT WORKED!! Boy do I feel like a dunce!! So I'm thinking what happened is by having the plug on the back of the guage cluster off by one pin it blew the fuse which in turn kept the fuel pump relay from working. Or it's all mystic and decided to work today, I'm not really sure. So anyway I finally have a running car:burnout: ...but the speedometer is still not working properly (I will adress that issue in a new thread). Thank you to all of you who offered me your advice and knowledge. May God bless you all of your waking hours!! Thanx again Phill

I checked the fusable links, and they all looked visibaly ok...but I have found before that looks can be decieving. I will check again, also soon after work.

when I first checked the fuses I had found two blown, then I checked them with a meter and all but two were reading 12V with the key "on", one of the two recieved 12V while trying to start the motor, and the other blew again because I had one of the plugs on the back of the gauge cluster rotated off one pin...I believe, but that I will check as soon as I get home from work tonight.

Do you know where I can find a decent wiring diagram for my car. The only one I have is out of a Chilton book and its pretty weak. And/or do you know a way to check the ground on my ECU? I have triple checked all of the wire plugs to ensure they are connected and I'm 99% sure I didn't miss any.

Hello peoples, I have an '87 GL 4 door sedan with a 1.8L SPFI motor that was running just fine the other day. I Took the dash apart to instal a new speedometer cable and had not started the car at all that day before I installed the cable. Now that it is all back together, the car will not start:confused: . I know the fuel pump is not coming on because I cannot hear it buzz on and off when the key is in the "on" position. All of the fuses are fine, and the wires from the fuse to the relay have 12V traveling through them. I removed the fuel pump relay, tested it, and it is works properly when testing, however when it is plugged in and i turn the key you cannot hear it click on and off the way it should, and they way it did when I tested it. I am begining to think there is a problem with the computer, but when the relay is pluged in and the key is turned to the "on" position there is 12V through the wire coming from the computer to the relay:confused: . -ALSO- My heater fan quit working at the same time. You can't even hear the quiet hisses of the vacuum lines changing when you adjust the settings. I do not have any wiring diagrams for the heater system so I am at a bit of a loss:banghead: . I am thouroughly confused:confused: and any knowledge/input would be much appreciated. Please help. Thanx Phill