blownchevelle503
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Posts posted by blownchevelle503
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I have a 1980 1600 4wd hatch, how much would you charge for a 2-4 inch lift?
Kyle B.
Salem, OR
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I spent 5 minutes tearing apart my stock boot on my 1980 1600 4WD hatch, took a piece of vinyl, traced the pattern, spent a few minutes on my mom's sewing machine, and looks darn good. If I thought someone was making these, I probably wouldn't have spent the time to make one.
very nice! looks a bit better than mine.
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wow, did ya think that up all by yourself? haha!
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so I was soldering my old radiator, and a guy who is friends with my neighbor told me that his friend has a subaru similar to mine, and that he found some atv "quad" wheels that are a direct fit on our 4 lug hubs.
does anyone have any idea what that atv is, and where to buy the wheels?
he claims they handle great in the snow. if I remember correctly.
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after going under the dash, and checking all the vents and vent tubes, I found that on defrost, the left vents blow warm air, while the right vents do not. which I find weird since they are all connected to each other.
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1980 1600 hatch ea71 top center mount starter, etc...
my radiator fan control switch went out, I have a small leak in my radiator drain cock. I have rigged the fan to be constantly on, or constantly off, I keep the level to where the little sticker indicates it should be. and still I get luke warm heat for about 3 minutes, then it goes cold on any mode, recirc, vent, heat, and def. If I wait another 10 minutes it does the same thing.
before this all happened, the heater worked great, my temp gauge would never get above a little below the 1/4 mark, and would always be warm once it reached that level on the gauge.
now with the radiator fan on constant, it gets to right at 1/4 with no steady heat.
with the radiator fan off and while the vehicle is moving, it does the same thing.
if I'm sitting in a parking lot with the car idling, it will get to 1/2 on the gauge and start spewing steam and water.
so my questions are...
is this problem due to the fan ctrl switch, and the drain cock?
is there a different temp thermostat I can put in to give me better heat?
I think I have a 190* thermostat in right now.
I plan to order the fan ctrl switch, and drain cock on the 4th, and install them on the 5th. if I need a new thermostat, I'd like to do it while I have the cooling system empty.
btw.. when the temp gauge is at normal operating range for my car, all of the hoses, heater hoses included, are all warm/hot.
also, I think I might have a small leak in my head gaskets, my brand new plugs have rust colored substance on the porcelain. I did a compression test on saturday, I have
1. 115 psi
2. 125 psi
3. 140 psi
4. 115 psi
thank you all for your input in advance!
Kyle B.
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I realized the bolt pattern was 4x140 rather than the 4x110 I stated, after I posted.
it was a random idea/hope.
there are some heavy 'farm wagon' quads that haul trailers and such, but who know's if they'll work.
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So I've been trying to find some aggressive tires for my 1980 1600 hatch, and I have yet to find any options, aside from drilling out a set of chevy 6-lug wheels... until now.
http://www.amstires.com/productDetails.jsp?product_group_id=5911&category_id=1300
I found this site, they sell atv, and motorcycle wheels, tires, tubes, etc....
I believe the bolt pattern for my subaru should be a 4x110mm this site lists the pattern as 4/110. what I need for someone to do, is go to that link, be more educated than myself, and tell me if these would work for off road use... and if they would fit on the 4 lug subies.
if these wheels and wide variety of tires for these wheels would fit on our cars, we could get some tires and wheels for the times we have "fun" in our cars, and it would be swell.
scenario 1. if they did fit, I wouldn't think it would be a good idea to use these at highway speeds. but it should be fun around mud and rocks.
it would be greatly appreciated by me, and possibly others if someone would be so kind as to check this out for all subaru kind!
Thank You!
Kyle B.
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What? My 1980 Wagon ran great on 87 from Chevron. 80 is the year, 87 is the octane.
Now, I also had a 1987 wagon that was converted to SPFI, and it ran great on 87 octane as well.
Either the Chevron gas I use has magical powers, or Portland gets all the good gas and sends the dregs to Salem.
I misread the year of your car. my bad.
the response to your statement... maybe your car doesn't run great, maybe you're just easily pleased.
or
maybe my car, and every other carb'd car I've owned, driven, and known about doesn't run better on 92, maybe drag racers are wasting hundreds of dollars on a fictional dream. why even sell 92 octane, it's completely useless right?
maybe fuel delivery systems can run on hopes, dreams, and gum drops.
maybe unicorns are the responsible party, maybe they created 92 octane, they created it so people would pursue a different fable creature and leave them the hell alone.
I have fable creatures watching after my car, what's watching after yours?
great link BTW some poor fool really thinks they got their tank of water from arco... priceless. I don't use arco, not because its half water, but because there isn't a station by my house, and I am not fond of dealing with unsavory people, and leaving my car unattended near tweakers.
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haha, your 87 is fi isnt it? carbureted vehicles are sensitive.
I ran premium, octane boosters, regular, plus, everything I could think of through my 87 spfi gl wagon, 1990 rhd legacy wagon, 1991 legacy wagon, 1993 legacy wagon, and both 1993 legacy sedans. nothing ever made a difference, it only worked for my 1980 1600 std single range 4wd ea71 hatch. I've used several different brands of octane boost, nos brand octane boost has worked the best for me, but only in carbureted vehicles... that's just been my experience.
I have noticed a difference between 87 octane, and 92 octane in my car. so sit back, put your hand down, and don't try and tell me what works and what doesn't until you've driven my car on regular, then on premium.
and the best gas you can buy in salem, or is 76 brand 92 octane gas. they call their fuel 92 octane, but when tested it is found to be 93-94 octane.
take a carbureted chev 350 lets say in a 70 corvette, just for the sake of arguement. run regular 87 octane from chevron, it will run, and it will run poorly and get low fuel mileage. I will stake everything I own that running the same motor on 92 octane will show you a night and day difference in power, and fuel efficiency. it's something I've almost obsessed about for a lot of years. I've ran 87 and 92 in several carbureted vehicles, too many to list, I can provide over 10 people to back up my theories, that 92 runs better in carbureted vehicles, then 87 does.
I'll bet you're going to tell me that bp, or arco gas is "Watered down"
let's blow this idea outta the water right now... pun intended.
BP or British Petroleum owns Arco fuel stations, their gas isn't watered down, or even diluted. the reason it is so much cheaper than other brands, is becaue they buy from the cheapest source, no matter what. they might buy from company A today, and company B tomorrow.
if their gas was watered down, then several customers would get their tanks full of water. gasoline is a petroleum product, gas and water don't mix, they would seperate in underground tanks, and like I said, several customers would get water, while others would get gas.
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Where are you getting this "free" gas from? Nothing is free, and putting crap through your engine can cost you more money down the road.
Best EA71 mods for someone on a budget - full tank of top tier 87, fresh fuel filter, oil change with some Valvoline high mileage 10w30 and an OEM quality oil filter.
lol@ top tier 87. the owners manual calls for 91 or higher. the car runs like garbage on 87, and good on 92. the oil was changed with castrol 10w30 (I don't buy Valvoline or Pennzoil) the fuel filter has less than 5k on it. the filter is a commercial filter because of my shop discount at O'Reilly auto parts.
the free gas was free because the actual gas, didn't cost me a dime for the actual gas, it didn't cost me anything but my time to reverse the effects, the parts I bought for my car needed to be replaced long before I poured the poor gas into my car.
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Dude... drive your car to a gas station and use pump gas.
Also, change all your filters.
lol, I've been going to the station since I tuned it up. I didnt have a problem with the free gas until a week or 2 ago. as soon as I had trouble with it, I ran it out, tuned it up, filled with premium and an octane boost, and now it runs a lot better.
the only reason I used it, was because it was unlimited free gas. most people would take advantage of free gas, unless they found what I found in the bottom of the cans.
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**UPDATE**
I adjusted my carb, leaned it out a bit, adjusted the idle, timed it by ear, dumped a can of b12 chemtool in it, bought a can of pyroil carb cleaner. used it according to the directions, she still takes a bit to start, but once warm, she drives great, I can feel her hit her peak tq, its very noticeable. I'm sure she needs more adjustments, but she's doing 75% better.
Kyle B.
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I poured it from dirty gas cans into my car. its also safeway gas, but thats only a small portion of the problem. oh, and I also ran 5gallons of 50:1 mix gas in my car along with a 5gallon can of regular.
I usually use b12 chemtool to clean my fuel system.
I've used seafoam with no noticable difference, although I did that with my mixture set at rich, and before using the crappy gas
everytime I used the cheap crappy gas, I used lucas fuel additive (cant remember the exact name)
what do you guys recommend as far as "pour in the gas tank" cleaners or additives?
BTW I just filled with shell v-power, its no 76 but it does alright.
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ok so for those trying to pass deq in any area, if you buy a better aftermarket carb, why don't you slap the new carb on, tune it. then before you go through deq couldn't you throw the old one back on, test it, then go home and put the tuned new one back on? same thing with a cai (cold air intake) right?
I don't know much about deq, I live in salem, or so we don't have to deal with deq.
my step dad told me that the way he used to pass with his vehicles, is he would turn his distributor til the vehicle barely ran, take it through deq, pass, then re-time it in the parking lot, and drive off.
I'm sure he never had an aftermarket carb, fuel delivery conversion, engine swap, or a cold air intake.
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I adjusted the idle mixture screw, it was adjusted to run really rich, I leaned it out enough so I can no longer smell the gasoline in the exhaust. just smells like hot air.
the car still takes a bit of cranking over to start, and still diesels when I shut it off.
I noticed that at an idle, while looking down the carb with the butterfly propped open. it throws drops of fuel out of the jet, and as soon as I rev it, it sprays a mist out. is this normal?
Does anyone in my area have a freshly rebuilt hitachi carb thats priced to sell? or a good enough carb, or a rebuildable core. or if someone wants to give me a weber, I'll be fine with that too.
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I looked down my carb while the engine was running, and I saw that the fuel is barely spitting out. my car is running like garbage now. I read in my subaru service manual (not haynes, or chilton) that the remedy is to remove and clean the jet, or something... I ran regular from gas cans through my car for a good 2 months, I believe something in the carb is dirty and clogged. short of a carb rebuild, what could I do for a 'quick fix' to get me through til next payday?
Thank You!
Kyle B.
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I went to schucks tonight, spent $51 on my car. 4 NGK iridium plugs $7 each, gapped at .032, distributor cap, rotor, and nos 60point (or 6 octane) octane boost.
they were out of plug wires, and couldn't find a fuel filter due to their remodel.
I've been running free 87 octane for the past 2 months in my car, fill up twice a week, and today my car fell on its face several times, she's doing better now.
what are my options for a really good coil?
and what's the deal with the external voltage regulator? what's its purpose? is there a way to get rid of it? without killing my car?
I had some NGK iridium plugs in it from my 93 legacy, they were gapped accordingly .043 or so. and seemed to run better with a wider gap. does anyone have anything to add to this?
also, whats with this secondary air filter (baby blue round box, goes straight to the head.) I pulled the hose with the engine running, it gets louder, but sound is the only difference I've noticed... what options do I have with this? if I remove it, what do I do with the hose?
thank you all for your patience.
Kyle B.
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It's COMPLETELY different from a 350, which is Iron through and through.
These engines have a thin Iron sleeve down the block. The force of boring against it is likely to break it loose and spin it. I know Ram and CCR do it....they are pros.....it isn't impossible......but it ussually isn't needed for a daily driver type motor.
BTW, Which is it you want? reliable or powerful? you won't get both out of this motor. You definately could with an EJ. Not sure why you are so sour on them.....but they are superior to the EA series in every way......you really should consider it.
the person didn't understand what heat dissipation meant. I was explaining to him that it meant overheating problems. and problems getting rid of the heat. not that the bored out subaru is the same or even similar to a chev.
just to clear that up
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Hey blownchevelle,
They will bore your block for $175.00, that's list.
Doug
Edit: "according to ccr, boring the cylinders is not an option due to heat dissipation issues." I don't know what that means, and it doesn't make sense to me. How about you?
I'll explain it the best way I know how. on a chev 350, you can bore the cylinders more than .060 but you are going to have issued with overheating. its the same thing here, you can always try and find a triple or double core radiator. but I know I wouldn't wanna run the risk.
I like my cars being lower maintenance.
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And what exactly do you mean by "destroy". I don't consider having to replace some gaskets or loss of oil resulting in a seized motor to be the fault of the engine. That's poor maintenance. Properly maintained I'm not sure which would fail first - the EA81 or the EJ22 - both should easily do 350k+ with good maintenence. Though the EA81 might need a couple carb rebuillds, some distributor replacement's, and a whole lot of valve adjustment's to get there.
GD
I was referring to the 1993 leg awd $1400 paper weight I bought a couple years back.
the odometer had 150,XXX on it, I drove it for 318 miles, the crankcase was full of oil, the oil filter and oil were brand new. it purred like a kitten at miles 1-310 I can only speculate what happened inside the engine in the next 8 miles, but the end result was a hole the size of the "ej22" code on the block, the rod poked through a bit, the motor didn't seize. it would turn over, almost start, but it was dead.
I have a running 1990 legacy 5spd awd wagon sitting in colton, or. it starts, runs, but needs a clutch, exhaust, and put back together. I offered the guy $200 for it, he laughed and said "try $100" his sons are firm believers of "the more you drink, the better you become at fixin cars" poor fellars couldn't even get the axle nuts off. they thought the right side was reverse thread.
as you can see, the reason I don't want an ej22 in my car isn't due to lack of parts. I have a near complete car, collecting moss.
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WOW. I've never seen GD be this cool and helpful to someone with a bad attitude like this before. What's wrong with you man? You having a mellow off-day?
Ram engines are built for use in experimental aircraft. Constant RPM, constant load, not idle to redline variable load like you see in a car. So high horsepower/ torque #'s can be made, but the powerband is much smaller. Everything is optimized for a certian RPM, not a wide flat torque band like you need to move a car.
That aside, I belive the EA71 still had separate cylinder sleeves with shims at the bottom. The shims would compress and the sleeve would move in the block letting the headgasket blow. EA81's don't have removable sleeves so I don't think that's a problem with them. So there's a reason to upgrade to the newer design.
Plus, you can retrofit the SPFI system off of an EA82 onto the EA81, which gives you the power, economy, and reliabilty of fuel injection on the simplicity of a pushrod engine. A 5speed also has a better shift linkage that is less likely to give you problems, and I belive the internals are stronger too. So that's a jump in reliability.
The best setup I would recommend is a 5spd EA81 with SPFI.
I wouldn't recommend an EJ engine for you, mainly because it has too much torque for the old style FWD suspension to put down. With my loyale wagon, I could easily light up the 30" diameter tires. In fact, you had to be damn careful with it in the rain because it would break loose both front wheels and the front would slide to the right. Which in 2 lane stop and go traffic can run you into the car on your right. In 4wd it was a blast, in 2wd you had to be careful.
the motor I talked to ram engines about, was built for a customer, for his car
if you read the whole thread, you will see that I don't like ej22's, I used to think they were gods gift to me, until I owned and destroyed a few. I clearly stated that I don't want an ej22, I opened my mind to ea81's, as they are a better engine than my version of the ea71. if GD has or had a problem with me, it is his place to discuss that matter with me, like an adult. and we can work it out as adults. I know what an ej22 would do to my car, it would make it fun for about 30 seconds, then it would start tearing stuff apart.
it would be like putting a 572cu chevy on a lawn mower. nothing good could come of it. if I took the time, money, and experience as pooparu, then it might work, then again, he started with a better version of the hatch. I'm starting with the poorest of hatch platforms, or "polishing a turd".
if you didnt like jesus, and told me you didnt like jesus, would you appreciate it if I came to your house everyday preaching, and reciting psalms and scriptures?
P.S. GeneralDisorder... what to say... I respect your views, I understand you have more experience than me, that's the whole reason I posted this thread (I have no experience in modifying or rebuilding subaru motors)
I respect your views, and opinions, but I dont agree with all of them.
Kyle B.
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well, I reckon I'll replace my front cv's. stock left and right side mirrors, stock rear view so I can take the legacy rear view mirror out. try and find a carpet kit, fix all the leaks in my car, repair the small amount of body damage, paint the car, and fix my suspension. then worry about whether or not I'll do a motor swap, that oughtta give me some time to decide if the car is worth my time upgrading, or just restoring.
ram engines gained 20hp and 10lb-ft tq with a carb, distributor curved and headers. imagine a cam grind, valves grinded, and head shaved. as you said, I cant marry another engine to my transmission, so I would like to get all the life out of my engine and trans as I can, and when they finally die, i'll think about a newer motor.
http://www.mttechsuba.com has plenty of replacement parts, as well as engines and trannys, they offer parts from early 80's to present. they are located in oregon city, oregon. I called them last year, and asked about clutch, cv's, mirrors, and motors, they told me they had them, but would have to call me back with prices.
I found out about them when I was working at safeway, a guy came in with an 83 turbo wagon, he said they sold him the turbo motor. he told me that they buy containers full of subaru parts, I have yet to verify if this is correct or not, but they do have parts for dang near any subaru.
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You are starting out with a 64 HP engine
Engine Specifications: EA-71
Displacement: 1595 cc/97 cu in.
Aspiration: 2-bbl Carburetor
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 68 at 4800 RPM
Torque: 85 at 2800 RPM
Spark Plug Type: BP6ES
Plug Gap: .032 inches
Lift kits
in Products for your Subaru
Posted
That's pretty Sexy! I need a new Turd to polish.