blownchevelle503

That's pretty Sexy! I need a new Turd to polish.

I have a 1980 1600 4wd hatch, how much would you charge for a 2-4 inch lift? Kyle B. Salem, OR

I spent 5 minutes tearing apart my stock boot on my 1980 1600 4WD hatch, took a piece of vinyl, traced the pattern, spent a few minutes on my mom's sewing machine, and looks darn good. If I thought someone was making these, I probably wouldn't have spent the time to make one. very nice! looks a bit better than mine.

wow, did ya think that up all by yourself? haha!

so I was soldering my old radiator, and a guy who is friends with my neighbor told me that his friend has a subaru similar to mine, and that he found some atv "quad" wheels that are a direct fit on our 4 lug hubs. does anyone have any idea what that atv is, and where to buy the wheels? he claims they handle great in the snow. if I remember correctly.

after going under the dash, and checking all the vents and vent tubes, I found that on defrost, the left vents blow warm air, while the right vents do not. which I find weird since they are all connected to each other.

1980 1600 hatch ea71 top center mount starter, etc... my radiator fan control switch went out, I have a small leak in my radiator drain cock. I have rigged the fan to be constantly on, or constantly off, I keep the level to where the little sticker indicates it should be. and still I get luke warm heat for about 3 minutes, then it goes cold on any mode, recirc, vent, heat, and def. If I wait another 10 minutes it does the same thing. before this all happened, the heater worked great, my temp gauge would never get above a little below the 1/4 mark, and would always be warm once it reached that level on the gauge. now with the radiator fan on constant, it gets to right at 1/4 with no steady heat. with the radiator fan off and while the vehicle is moving, it does the same thing. if I'm sitting in a parking lot with the car idling, it will get to 1/2 on the gauge and start spewing steam and water. so my questions are... is this problem due to the fan ctrl switch, and the drain cock? is there a different temp thermostat I can put in to give me better heat? I think I have a 190* thermostat in right now. I plan to order the fan ctrl switch, and drain cock on the 4th, and install them on the 5th. if I need a new thermostat, I'd like to do it while I have the cooling system empty. btw.. when the temp gauge is at normal operating range for my car, all of the hoses, heater hoses included, are all warm/hot. also, I think I might have a small leak in my head gaskets, my brand new plugs have rust colored substance on the porcelain. I did a compression test on saturday, I have 1. 115 psi 2. 125 psi 3. 140 psi 4. 115 psi thank you all for your input in advance! Kyle B.

I realized the bolt pattern was 4x140 rather than the 4x110 I stated, after I posted. it was a random idea/hope. there are some heavy 'farm wagon' quads that haul trailers and such, but who know's if they'll work.

So I've been trying to find some aggressive tires for my 1980 1600 hatch, and I have yet to find any options, aside from drilling out a set of chevy 6-lug wheels... until now. http://www.amstires.com/productDetails.jsp?product_group_id=5911&category_id=1300 I found this site, they sell atv, and motorcycle wheels, tires, tubes, etc.... I believe the bolt pattern for my subaru should be a 4x110mm this site lists the pattern as 4/110. what I need for someone to do, is go to that link, be more educated than myself, and tell me if these would work for off road use... and if they would fit on the 4 lug subies. if these wheels and wide variety of tires for these wheels would fit on our cars, we could get some tires and wheels for the times we have "fun" in our cars, and it would be swell. scenario 1. if they did fit, I wouldn't think it would be a good idea to use these at highway speeds. but it should be fun around mud and rocks. it would be greatly appreciated by me, and possibly others if someone would be so kind as to check this out for all subaru kind! Thank You! Kyle B.

I misread the year of your car. my bad. the response to your statement... maybe your car doesn't run great, maybe you're just easily pleased. or maybe my car, and every other carb'd car I've owned, driven, and known about doesn't run better on 92, maybe drag racers are wasting hundreds of dollars on a fictional dream. why even sell 92 octane, it's completely useless right? maybe fuel delivery systems can run on hopes, dreams, and gum drops. maybe unicorns are the responsible party, maybe they created 92 octane, they created it so people would pursue a different fable creature and leave them the hell alone. I have fable creatures watching after my car, what's watching after yours? great link BTW some poor fool really thinks they got their tank of water from arco... priceless. I don't use arco, not because its half water, but because there isn't a station by my house, and I am not fond of dealing with unsavory people, and leaving my car unattended near tweakers.

haha, your 87 is fi isnt it? carbureted vehicles are sensitive. I ran premium, octane boosters, regular, plus, everything I could think of through my 87 spfi gl wagon, 1990 rhd legacy wagon, 1991 legacy wagon, 1993 legacy wagon, and both 1993 legacy sedans. nothing ever made a difference, it only worked for my 1980 1600 std single range 4wd ea71 hatch. I've used several different brands of octane boost, nos brand octane boost has worked the best for me, but only in carbureted vehicles... that's just been my experience. I have noticed a difference between 87 octane, and 92 octane in my car. so sit back, put your hand down, and don't try and tell me what works and what doesn't until you've driven my car on regular, then on premium. and the best gas you can buy in salem, or is 76 brand 92 octane gas. they call their fuel 92 octane, but when tested it is found to be 93-94 octane. take a carbureted chev 350 lets say in a 70 corvette, just for the sake of arguement. run regular 87 octane from chevron, it will run, and it will run poorly and get low fuel mileage. I will stake everything I own that running the same motor on 92 octane will show you a night and day difference in power, and fuel efficiency. it's something I've almost obsessed about for a lot of years. I've ran 87 and 92 in several carbureted vehicles, too many to list, I can provide over 10 people to back up my theories, that 92 runs better in carbureted vehicles, then 87 does. I'll bet you're going to tell me that bp, or arco gas is "Watered down" let's blow this idea outta the water right now... pun intended. BP or British Petroleum owns Arco fuel stations, their gas isn't watered down, or even diluted. the reason it is so much cheaper than other brands, is becaue they buy from the cheapest source, no matter what. they might buy from company A today, and company B tomorrow. if their gas was watered down, then several customers would get their tanks full of water. gasoline is a petroleum product, gas and water don't mix, they would seperate in underground tanks, and like I said, several customers would get water, while others would get gas.

lol@ top tier 87. the owners manual calls for 91 or higher. the car runs like garbage on 87, and good on 92. the oil was changed with castrol 10w30 (I don't buy Valvoline or Pennzoil) the fuel filter has less than 5k on it. the filter is a commercial filter because of my shop discount at O'Reilly auto parts. the free gas was free because the actual gas, didn't cost me a dime for the actual gas, it didn't cost me anything but my time to reverse the effects, the parts I bought for my car needed to be replaced long before I poured the poor gas into my car.

lol, I've been going to the station since I tuned it up. I didnt have a problem with the free gas until a week or 2 ago. as soon as I had trouble with it, I ran it out, tuned it up, filled with premium and an octane boost, and now it runs a lot better. the only reason I used it, was because it was unlimited free gas. most people would take advantage of free gas, unless they found what I found in the bottom of the cans.

**UPDATE** I adjusted my carb, leaned it out a bit, adjusted the idle, timed it by ear, dumped a can of b12 chemtool in it, bought a can of pyroil carb cleaner. used it according to the directions, she still takes a bit to start, but once warm, she drives great, I can feel her hit her peak tq, its very noticeable. I'm sure she needs more adjustments, but she's doing 75% better. Kyle B.

I poured it from dirty gas cans into my car. its also safeway gas, but thats only a small portion of the problem. oh, and I also ran 5gallons of 50:1 mix gas in my car along with a 5gallon can of regular. I usually use b12 chemtool to clean my fuel system. I've used seafoam with no noticable difference, although I did that with my mixture set at rich, and before using the crappy gas everytime I used the cheap crappy gas, I used lucas fuel additive (cant remember the exact name) what do you guys recommend as far as "pour in the gas tank" cleaners or additives? BTW I just filled with shell v-power, its no 76 but it does alright.

ok so for those trying to pass deq in any area, if you buy a better aftermarket carb, why don't you slap the new carb on, tune it. then before you go through deq couldn't you throw the old one back on, test it, then go home and put the tuned new one back on? same thing with a cai (cold air intake) right? I don't know much about deq, I live in salem, or so we don't have to deal with deq. my step dad told me that the way he used to pass with his vehicles, is he would turn his distributor til the vehicle barely ran, take it through deq, pass, then re-time it in the parking lot, and drive off. I'm sure he never had an aftermarket carb, fuel delivery conversion, engine swap, or a cold air intake.

I adjusted the idle mixture screw, it was adjusted to run really rich, I leaned it out enough so I can no longer smell the gasoline in the exhaust. just smells like hot air. the car still takes a bit of cranking over to start, and still diesels when I shut it off. I noticed that at an idle, while looking down the carb with the butterfly propped open. it throws drops of fuel out of the jet, and as soon as I rev it, it sprays a mist out. is this normal? Does anyone in my area have a freshly rebuilt hitachi carb thats priced to sell? or a good enough carb, or a rebuildable core. or if someone wants to give me a weber, I'll be fine with that too.

I looked down my carb while the engine was running, and I saw that the fuel is barely spitting out. my car is running like garbage now. I read in my subaru service manual (not haynes, or chilton) that the remedy is to remove and clean the jet, or something... I ran regular from gas cans through my car for a good 2 months, I believe something in the carb is dirty and clogged. short of a carb rebuild, what could I do for a 'quick fix' to get me through til next payday? Thank You! Kyle B.

I went to schucks tonight, spent $51 on my car. 4 NGK iridium plugs $7 each, gapped at .032, distributor cap, rotor, and nos 60point (or 6 octane) octane boost. they were out of plug wires, and couldn't find a fuel filter due to their remodel. I've been running free 87 octane for the past 2 months in my car, fill up twice a week, and today my car fell on its face several times, she's doing better now. what are my options for a really good coil? and what's the deal with the external voltage regulator? what's its purpose? is there a way to get rid of it? without killing my car? I had some NGK iridium plugs in it from my 93 legacy, they were gapped accordingly .043 or so. and seemed to run better with a wider gap. does anyone have anything to add to this? also, whats with this secondary air filter (baby blue round box, goes straight to the head.) I pulled the hose with the engine running, it gets louder, but sound is the only difference I've noticed... what options do I have with this? if I remove it, what do I do with the hose? thank you all for your patience. Kyle B.

the person didn't understand what heat dissipation meant. I was explaining to him that it meant overheating problems. and problems getting rid of the heat. not that the bored out subaru is the same or even similar to a chev. just to clear that up

I'll explain it the best way I know how. on a chev 350, you can bore the cylinders more than .060 but you are going to have issued with overheating. its the same thing here, you can always try and find a triple or double core radiator. but I know I wouldn't wanna run the risk. I like my cars being lower maintenance.