505subie

Got it. Thank You.

CNY Dave- Thanks for the links I have come across those and I'll call Cobra to see what they say. Most Likely I'll head to the Junkyard to find a donor housing. Do you know if this bushing rides between the oil seal and the prop shaft? Or is more inboard towards the front of the extension housing? Thanks again

I have been unable to source this bushing (part 066 in this schematic) http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/graphics/Catalog-pdf/R4AX-EL.pdf. The dealership thinks I may need to replace the entire extension housing to get the bushing. Background: This car experienced a copious leak due to a bad oil seal in the extension housing. The existing bushing shows wear and is not servicable. The seal I purchased at autozone does not fit over the propeller shaft tight enough to keep the atf in the housing. The leak is minimal now but not oil tight. What is the purpose of this bushing. Do I need it. Thoughts are to measure the correct seal and propeller shaft and order an oil seal that should hold in the ATF. I can also look for the extension housing at the pull a part. Unfortunately it seems they just crushed most of their early ej cars.

So this morning I swapped the coil and ignitor from a parts car that always starts. Installed new plugs and wires and it fired right up:banana:. I need to put tags on it so cant drive it to see if the issue is totally gone. I will check codes in a bit. An accessory belt idler is frozen or the belt is too tight so back to the parts car for a bit more swapping. Just wanted to thank those who made suggestions. Paul

Gentlemen: This is a good start. I will check all items suggested. Unfortunately I wont have time until about a week from now. I will make sure that I let you all know how it works out. Just a few comments and questions I did replace the plug wires and coil wire yesterday before my post. Cap and rotor look good. When I pulled the plugs they looked good as well. I have new plugs and will probably install them next weekend. Thanks again for the suggestions. Paul

Issue seems resolved by swapping coil and ignitor. First I want to thank this board for all of the lurking I do here. I have driven mostly Subes since 1989. Wish I still had that '86 2wd hatch! Ok on to my issue. Got this car late last summer sort of, the PO had it towed to my place and asked if I wanted it, then sort of reneged then signed the title over in Nov. He had taken it to a few shops to sort a no start issue. Every time I needed to move the car it started, sometimes it needed a jump. Most times not (this was late summer). FF to now. After I got the title I decided to get it going. I thought maybe it just needed a battery. No dice. No start. Gave it a jump after running the battery down no start. Fiddled with the coil wire. Fired right up (with a jump). At this point I slapped myself on the head and simultaneously patted myself on the back for figuring out the no start issue (loose coil wire). The car sat for two more weeks while I waited for enough cash to register it. The day comes (In the meanwhile I also bought some new I pikes for it cause the tires were crap, get home to take the car to the tire shop and) NO START???. WTF So with a jump and trying to fry the starter it finally fires up. I take it to get tires and it barely starts again after sitting for about 45 minutes. Drive home and search this board. Ignoring reading codes etc. So this is way to long. I am thinking at this point cold start issue = CTS. Swap in JY CTS no help. More searching leads back to ignition codes read are 13 and 11 Crank angle sensor. Take apart top of disty and attempt to yank the crank angle sensor. Oooppps the cas seems to be attached from underneath the disty. I put it all back but blast it with some MAF cleaner first without ever hitting the optical sensor that I know of. After the disty was all buttoned up the car fired right up. Smelling victory I took it to get the emissions tested and it passed with flying colors. Drove around town to work to the kids basketball game and it started to miss around 2500 rpm and sitting at a light I watched the tach drop to about 500 the lower then it stalled. Crap! So I am cranking it and cranking it. It seems to want to fire some mild sounds of combustion and mild backfiring. No start. In the heat of desperation I get under the hood and make sure the coil wire from the disty is snug. It starts. Yayyyyyy!. No other issues that night. Drove it another thirty miles or so still has the missing issue at certain RPMs. Starts fine cold star issue appears gone. Until............. Two days ago it left me stranded. Had to have it towed home. My son's faith in my mechanical skills are in question cause we were on the way to school. Missing became an issue goosing the throttle kept it at bay. I didn't pay close enough attention. When I got the car home I read the codes IIRC it was 34 and that is not likely to cause a no start according to searches. Tonight I pulled the plugs they were all wet with fuel and appeared pretty new. I pulled the timing belt covers and timing is as should be 180 degrees out. So if you have read all of this Thank You. These are my questions. Am I on track? I have not yet checked compression but I will a week from tomorrow unless I get it earlier. Should I suspect the disty or crank angle sensor? It was firing and then went away. I will also check the grounds it could be that simple. When I checked the timing (cam orientation) I only rotated it until the dot on the passenger side and verified the drivers side was 180 out . Did I need to get TDC as well? The timing belts seemed to have more slack than normal maybe 1/8" deflection. Well If you read all of this thanks. Let the replies flow. Paul

Thanks Craig and Caleb. This is just a new one to me now I know where to start. Hope I don't have to get into the dash.

My cabin ac directions (vent, dash, defrost, heat) have defaulted to the dash no matter what control is selected. The blower works fine. I wanted to check with you all first. Could it be..... Satan Fuse Vacuum line popped off under the dash (I suspect this based on below) other ?? I have never had any problems until just yesterday no recent changes. I have noticed in the past that when I would switch from defrost to heat there would be a delay and then a pop as the door in the vent opened and hot air started to blow out by the floor. Please help we are getting awesome late season ski conditions in New Mexico and I really need my defrost back.