aiiadict

Thanks for the info... Does the speed sensor pulse = Speed Sensor line on ECU to GROUND? Making a 35mph pulse generator is an interesting idea... The ECU is supposed to shut off the injector if you're going X ammount of MPH, Throttle isn't pushed down (to save gas while coasting) If a pulse generator is hooked up, telling ECU the vehicle is always moving, won't the injector fail to open and give it gas? IE, fire up the vehicle, drive 5mph up hill, the injector should stop opening (getting 35mph signal), and engine would stop running? Rich

I tested from ECU to TPS, everything was at about 4ohms... I adjusted the TPS again, and trouble code went away! The idle switch wasn't coming on at the correct time. The ECU is happily flashing 5. Thanks for the help guys! Now to get a speed sensor hooked up.

RE: Naru (and everyone else who is kind enough to reply) Thanks for the info. I will do some more tests on the harness. The injector + and - were throwing a code, abnormal output. I soldered in 2 new wires between ECU and injector, made the code go away... Seems strange that the wires could go bad like this. Maybe they got water underneith the insulation and corroded? I've had year 1950 vehicles whose wiring was fine... I guess none of them were that sensitive to faults though. I'll report what I find later today... Have fun! Rich

RE: Gloyale Thanks a bunch! I will try this later. I don't have a speed sensor in the vehicle yet... It's gotta be some sort of magnetic switch mounted to the frame, and a magnet on the axle or something? Maybe within the speedometer? (this is a transplant into a VW bus) I would like to put a speed sensor on the vehicle. Do you guys know how many pulses the sensor should send the computer per ?MPH? or ?AXLE ROTATION? so I can mount one? I have a magnetic switch and some magnets, I just don't know what kinda RPM it sends back to the computer. Rich

You said "put 37 to 42 to READ mode" The connector on the end of the harness that goes to the ECU does not have a pin 37 (no conductor at that position, no wire coming out the other side).. Any other ideas? Thanks! Rich in Sac

in the manual, NO leads to "REPLACE ECU"... I am doubting that the ECU is bad. When electronics fail, they usually fail to the point of not working... Update: I was watching the ECU light flash. I pulled the throttle all the way open. the light starts flashing specification code (meaning computer and sensors OK). I release throttle. Error code 31. I pull throttle all the way. Specification code, no errors. Slowly close throttle. It flashes spec code until the idle switch gets pressed within the sensor... then back to code 31 Any ideas besides replacing computer? I guess I'll grab one at the junkyard next time I'm there... The engine runs great. Starts right up. Cimbs hills, Idles fine. Rich

So: Pin 31 to pin 42 (GND) to go into the test mode. (31 is labeled TEST MODE CONNECTOR in FSM).... While in TEST MODE, with engine OFF, IGNITION power ON, the ECU light shows specification code (in my case, code 5). The fuel pump turns on/off intermittently. This is normal according to the manual Pin 39 to pin 42. To clear the memory connect (39 is labeled CLEAR MEMORY in FSM). I have not got the clear memory mode to work. There is also READ MEMORY mode... Do you know which pin this would be on the ECU? Rich

Says throttle position sensor is acting up. I checked the sensor without connector plugged in. Everything with sensor is OK. I do troubleshoot on page 62 in FSM. resistance between terminal 26 and 35 is supposed to be 3.5k to 6.5kohms. I get 4.25k.. so thats OK I check resistance between terminal 25 and 35. Manual says its supposed to be less than 1k when throttle closed. I get 220ohms. so that's OK Manual says it should be greater than 2.4kohms when throttle is fully open. I get 3k ohms. so that's ok too... Next step says: "check if terminals 25,26, and 35 are open or disconnected" NO--->replace ECU YES--->repair terminal or harness ----------------------------------- I don't understand this step. How do I check if they are open or disconnected? IE, one lead of multimeter on the pins one by one, but what does other lead of meter go to? Am I checking the entire harness, IE from the throttle position sensor to the ECU connector??? Rich From Sac

RE: cougar That's exactly what I was looking for.. Thanks a bunch! Rich

To set timing on EA82 SPFI, you need to plug two connectors together, right under the dash, next to the computer... I would really appreciate it if someone could use their multimeter and figure out which pins on the computer this connects to ! I did a transplant, EA81 into 1973 VW bus. Carb sucked (ratsnest computer controlled carb) so I tried VW carb, too small. I upgraded to SPFI, but cut the test connector out when doing the switch over... If someone will test for continuity between the "test connectors" and the computer pins, I'll send them something nice :-) ----Rich near Sac, CAlifornia

Took a bit of reading to figure out dist. turns counter clockwise... had me scratching my head for a while... Runs Great! It's spitting out error 31, throttle pos problem. These engines are awesome! --Rich, near sac, california

I cannot find this anywhere. Please fill in the blanks! position number drivers front ___ drivers rear ___ passengers front ___ passengers rear ___ front = front of car closest to radiator rear = rear of car, closest to transmission I read that the order is 1,3,2,4. I have received conflicting emails regarding the cylinder #'s

I ordered and received a new head gasket. Interesting, this is very different than the first gasket I put on... the first (which appears may have leaked, or it may have been manifold gasket) was flat black colored, looked kind of like charcoal. It felt rough/uneven surface. the one I just bought is deep dark red/brown, shiny surface, feels like soft rubber coating.

anybody ever get a chance to do this?

forgot to mention: I have never got this engine over about 200 degree F. It has reconditioned heads, new bearings, new rings.

more information: I actually measured variance in level of mating surface, it is about .005 inches. Is this ok? I pulled the valves out. I could see where water had obviously been pooled up in the intake port (rust marks on back of intake valves indicate water level)... There was a bit of rust on the back side of the exhaust valve. The crack that I had seen before is actually a mark from the mold during manufacturing. I cannot see any cracks in the intake or exhaust ports. I'm beginning to think it must have been a leaky manifold gasket (although no rust marks in intake port on top of head, just rust on back side of intake valves) I'm thinking I'll put a new head gasket, new manifold gaskets, and put it back together and see if all is well. I double checked the oil at the dipstick, it looks like oil. Would I be able to see water in the oil if engine hasn't run in about 12 months? IE does it need to be churned up to see the water? any more advice? Rich

I see 1 crack in the head, in the exhaust port. The aluminum comes to a "peak" in the center of the port, where the exhaust passages meet. The crack does not appear to go very deep, and I don't see how water could be getting in cylinder from there.. Where should I look for cracks? Remove the valves and look under them? should there have been obvious signs of a leak on the intake manifold gaskets? same for sign of leak on head gasket? I couldn't find any signs of a leak, but don't know if there would be. Could water somehow come through cylinder walls? I put the pistons on bottom dead center and feel with my fingers, they're smooth. you say 1mm is too big a variance on mating surface? Ok, I'm going to either have this one machined or get a new (used) head. Rich

water in both cylinders on passenger side of vehicle. I pulled the manifold and head and could not find any obvious problems.. mating surface of head isn't %100 flat, varies about 1mm. there is no water in oil. the intake port on the head does NOT show rust (rusty water in cooling system) the head was put on with gasket + formagasket, torqued properly. at one point I tried to start the vehicle and it had vapor lock. no signs of steam in exhaust. I pulled the plug, cranked the water out, ran it. next time I tried to start it, vapor lock. Seems like water is leaking into the head when engine is sitting, off. any ideas? Rich

Replacing the injector (Again) fixed the high RPM floods and the idling problem. Rich

What is speed sensor used for? I know some fuel injection systems will cut power to the injector when the car is rolling, in gear, and the throttle pos sensor is in idle position. How about the in gear / neutral sensor? For the above? Rich

>Changing an SPFI injector is easy; just pick one up at the junkyard. Start > undoing screws. Its pretty obvious. Be careful with seals and gaskets, > and re use if you can, or get new ones for peace of mind. I had tested the injector and it was showing good values.. I replaced the injector about 2000 miles ago when I first got the engine running. The one installed in the throttlebody wasn't opening. I didn't think there was any chance I had another injector go bad on me... Apparently it was sticking open and causing the engine to flood.. I replaced the injector with a spare I had and it still ran rough.. I "reset" the computer by removing power, and problem is fixed! Thanks...

Hello.. I have subaru SPFI 1987. Excellent spark. New Oxygen sensor. It has always flooded over 4000rpm for extended periods. It is now putting out black smoke and smelling like bad gas. Doesn't idle properly (rpm too low or too high depending on its mood). If I take it for a short trip it will flood at about 3000 rpm. Running rough and smokey the whole time. -I tested throttle pos sensor. OK (idle switch and pos sensor). -Air flow meter is OK (v+ is good and output changes when I blow in it) -I havent checked distributor or crank pos sensor yet. No vacuum leaks. disconnecting the coolant temp sensor during idle decreases idle speed (with cold engine) The ECU is showing 14, "abnormal injector output". I'm thinking it's probably 1)fuel pressure too high or 2)injector is leaking or partially sticking in "open" position.

it's flashing code 14 (abnormal injector output) Starts good. runs good. will suddenly stall about every 15 minutes while at 4000RPM.... have to hold pedal down to floor to get it to start (it's flooded) anyone have an idea what's going on? info: timed correctly, valves set correctly speed sensor is NOT hooked up. I wonder if this could be the problem? maybe a bad ground to the exhaust pipe? O2 sensor isn't sending correct data, thinks it's running really lean, so it floods with gas? Rich

FSM tells you how to get to modes (with test connectors) 1)Usercheck 2)Dealercheck FSM also has list of error codes. and an explanation of how the light flashes relate to which error is being indicated. 5 flashes indicates "specification code", letting you know what kind of vehicle you have. the search link (below the Ultimate Subaru Message Board logo) is your friend. So is google. Rich

My tracing was on 91 loyale harness Rich