noeln

Thanks for the secret handshake! Is there someplace to find the meanings of the codes from the TCU?

Thanks for you help, Fairtax. I agree with your take on the FWD light situation. At this point I think I will continue to drive the car in FWD and do periodic drain and refills of the ATF and pull the fuse to see if there has been any improvement with the AWD. There are other things I can focus on in the short run, finding the reason for the rough idle while in gear, (i'm thinking vacumn leak?) and replacing belts, etc. I'll figure out the secret handshake and see what the TCU tells me.

I see that there are ebay kits that include the water pump, pulleys and everything for $126! I need to replace the other belts on the vehicle soon, but I will put the timing belt and all that related stuff on the calendar.

Thanks for the info Gary, I am slowly gaining some mechanical skills so maybe I could do all that at some point with some help from this board. I am hoping that the misfire doesn't return, and that I can eventually get the AWD working well. I'll change the ATF again soon and hopefully the Duty C Solenoid gods will smile upon me. I have a Volvo 240 with around 200K that I look after, and a Prius that I don't understand at all.

Thanks, the wires, and plugs and the coil were changed to no effect at a pretty good independent Subaru shop. The misfire hasn't returned (yet) and the engine is running fine, although the idle is rough when the car is in gear (as at a stoplight) but otherwise it is butter smooth.

Thanks for the reply Grossgary. I've only driven it 40 miles or so since changing the fluid. Mostly I have driven around town, but did take it on a 14 mile freeway run. I can certainly drain and replace the fluid a few more times. This last outbreak of torque bind, I put in the FWD fuse and at first the FWD dashboard light did not come on, then it did, leading me to think that the duty C operation may be intermittent (soon to completely fail?). I suppose I could drive it with the FWD fuse in for the duration (I am still worried that the misfire problem will return and need to get confident that that is fixed) and return to the AWD problem at a later date. If I am in FWD mode for a long period, should I remove the rear shaft?

Good ideas Fairtax! I assume you are saying to get the code from the ECU under the dash and not the OBD ll port. I saw a post that contained those codes, I'll go hunting for it.

I have a 96 Legacy L with 111K. It has been sitting for a couple of years. I had a misfire problem that I was unable to fix. Recently my mechanic neighbor took an interest in the car and seems to have cleared up the misfire problem (cleaning the injectors). There are belts to replace and a few little things to do but it seemed to be running just great. Then I began getting the AT Oil Temp light blinking 16 times. I also experienced some torque bind. I put the FWD fuse in place and that cleared up the torque bind. I drained the ATF 3 times and replaced what came out with new Subaru fluid. I took out the FWD fuse and for a few test rides, I didn't feel any torque bind and the blinking AT Oil light didn't come on. Today, the light started blinking and the torque bind came back, not so bad at first but then the bind seemingly got much greater. I put in the FWD fuse and at first the FWD light didn't come on. I waited awhile and then started the car. The AT Oil light blinked but the FWD light came on. The torque bind was gone. I suspect that I need to replace the Duty C Solenoid at this point. I have read a lot of posts here on this subject and I wanted to double check as to whether there is anything else I should check before we tear into this. Also if you could direct me to a video or set of pictures detailing the process of replacing the Duty C Solenoid, I would greatly appreciate it.

Maybe the tensioner on the timing belt....

Nipper, There is a rather faint tick during idle on the passenger side front of the engine, would that be it, there has also been a more pronounced ticking occasionally while driving as well. Thanks, Noel

I just found a repair order from 5/00 for replacement of the main seal and a new timing belt. so this one has 54K on it, I should probably get it inspected. I'll probably buy that used coil and see if they have temperature sensor for the ECU. I'll just go down the list. I need to get the manual for this buddy. I've never had much to do with this car, but it seems like a nice wagon and with my old Volvo running great, this is fun to work on. thanks again, Noel

I don't think that I am up to the task of changing the timing belt, should I do the Water Pump and the seals at the same time? any idea what it should cost? Thanks

It seems to run better, doesn't seem as frail, shifting seemed better, I ran it slow and smooth for about 5 minutes, I fiigured that the new tranny fluid would like to find all of thos nooks and crannys, then I got a little more agressive and the car seemed to respond. The last few times I drove it, it ran poorly and I babied it, so at least I have a bit more confidence in it. Tomorrow morning will be the real test, I'll start it and drive away cold and we'll see what happens. I took out the battery, that seems to have cleared the CEL. Thanks!

thanks Nipper, I just replaced the plugs with the spec ones and flushed the tranny, I'm going to wash my hands and take her out for a run. stay tuned, ha,ha Noel

I just pulled the spark plugs. Whoever did the last tune up installed plugs that are spec'd for the 2.5 liter engine in my 2.2. I checked the manual. Is that a standard procedure? Did they just mess up? Noel

I checked the coil in the dark and didn't seek any spark, sprayed everything with water, no sparks anywhere. I should try it when the car is dead cold because that is when the problem seems to occur. I also tried the Volvo trick of running the car with the MAF disconnected to see if perhaps that was causing the problem, but the trick doesn't work on the Subaru ( it runs crappy and kills) Now the CEL light is on, is there a procedure to reset that? the other suggestion to this point has been the temperature sensor to the ECU. I'll see if I can find one of those. Also, I am coming up on 105K, could this be a timing belt thing, I need to get that done.[/color] and that tranny flush can't hurt anything.... Thanks

those were my second and third choices. I've been thinking about shaving my eyebrows anyway.... Noel

I'll test it tonight and if it is not the coil, I'll buy beer for the trunkmonkey and ATF for a flush with the savings! Thanks again!

Thanks Nipper, So far it is coil 2, other stuff 2 So, Nighttime is the right time for fixin' the car that you love..... I've already found a used coil pack, five miles away. I'm assuming that I put water in that spray bottle? Noel

Well, I can't do much damage if it doesn't run. I'll give it a go!

OK, a temp sensor, I gotta get a repair manual for this thing! Thanks!

I don't think that they changed the Coil pack, I will check the repair orders this PM. On my Volvo, to check the MAF you can unplug it and start up and run without the MAF and see if it the MAF is causing the problem. Can one do that with the Subaru? Thanks! Noel

Hi, I am new to the list. It looks like there is a lot of help here for Subaru owners. I have a '96 Legacy L, 105K miles, AT, etc. It is my wifes car. For the most part it has been well maintained. For some time now, if you start it and drive away cold, it will shift violently from 1st to 2nd and then it will shudder while driving and will either idle very rough at stops or just stall most often it stalls. Then you get a check engine light. It will start, but runs roughly and may stall again. However, if you warm it up for a long time (4-5 minutes) or take great care to let off of the throttle so that it shifts softly in 2nd, for the first time or two, the shuddering, stalling. etc. doesn't happen. I have taken it to independent Subaru Garages and they have checked the code, it always tells them of a misfire at one of the cylinders, I think that it is usually 3 or 4. They will change the plugs, or the wires and scratch their heads. But the problem soon returns. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Ideas? Thanks!