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My Subaru is a 1996 OBW 2.5 My problem is my rear hatch does not always unlock when I use the lock switch on the drivers door. This has been the case for a few months now, but not a huge problem as after a few tries with the lock switch or key in the drivers door, the hatch would unlock eventually. By the way, the key does not work in the actual slot on the hatch itself. However, yesterday the lock switch did not unlock the hatch at all, even after many attempts, and I was forced to retrieve my laptop bag by reaching over the rear seats. So, I assume there is something messed up with the hatch lock mechanism, either wiring or maybe gummed-up or something. Is there something I can try to repair the lock in the hatch? Cleaning maybe? Would it be better to simply disable the lock, leaving it unlocked all the time (I would have to remove valuables, but at least I could use the hatch area) ? Cheers,

Hi Tommymc, Did you ever resolve this? For a while I've noticed the samething, with my 96 OBW. I usually only drive on the highway 1-2 times a week, but after driving 110-120 km/h if I use the brakes (either slowing down in traffic or slowing for an exit ramp) I really feel the vibration through my foot on the brake. But, not 100% of the time. Sometimes, no vibration, and other times it's there. I replaced pads and rotors, front and back, about 8 months ago. Tires are about 1.5 years old, and the wear seems to be even, and tire pressure is normal. I find it odd, like you describe, as I can drive around town or even rural roads for days on end, and never feel this vibration, until I go on the highway. And, like I said above, this doesn't happen all the time.

Hey all, I have a 1996 OBW, 2.5 Auto. About 1.5 months ago, the AT OIL TEMP light started to flash 16 times on start up. I also noticed the torque bind I've read so much about in this forum. So I ran to the Sub dealer, and after plugging the car into the computer, they quoted I needed to replace transfer clutch valve assembly, meaning transfer clutch plate set and re-seal transmission oil pan. Estimate $850+tax CDN I asked if I could still drive the car without damage, and they said yes, as long as I could live with the binding and increased gas consumption. They also had to order the parts which would take a week or less. Because of my limited budget, this I could live with. And, for the 2 weeks afterwards, the AT OIL TEMP light and TB was intermittent. I would go 2-3 days with no problem. I also found the many suggestions on this forum regarging TB, and have tried the following: - I added 1 bottle of limited slip diff to the transmission. The problem went away for at least a full tank (~500km) then came back. - I did the transmission drain and re-fill with dexron III 4 times. The TB is much better, but the light still flashes. - I mounted my winter tires, which are almost new, less than 10,000 km (the summer all-seasons I ran were pretty much worn and won't be going on again. The problem almost went away with the snows on. Now, 6 weeks after the problem began, the light flashes each time I start, and the TB is back. It's not as bad as at first, but it's enough that I am bothered by it and want to fix it and move on. So, should I bite the bullet and get Subaru to replace the clutch assembly (I have the funds now, )? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks guys, I'll try to post a picture of me putting this guy in a headlock. As for the drain and refill 3 to 4 times, how much driving do you do between, if any? I assume some driving is needed inorder to move the older fluid down to the pan for removal.

Hello all, I am beginning to do my own work on my 96 OBW 2.5 auto, with 200000km. My first job was changing the engine oil last night, which went very well. Next job will be to change the pads and rotors. I also am planning to change the transmission fluid, and it sounds as easy as the oil. But when I stopped by the Subaru dealer for the oil filter, I asked for a handful of the plug seal washers, since the same one fits the oil drain and the transmission drain. That is when the parts guy asked if I wanted the AT filter as well. I mentioned that I had not read anything about an AT filter in my owners manual or the Haynes manual, for the 96 OBW. He insisted I had one, and that I should change it. So I spent $48 CDN on a AT filter. It basically looks like an oil filter, but says AT ONLY on the side. Last night while waiting for the engine oil to finishing draining, I went looking under the car for the AT filter, and can't seem to find one anywhere. So my question is, does the 96 OBW have an AT filter similar to an oil filter? And if so, where is it and how easy is it to replace? Or, should I take this one back, slap the guy, and get my money back? Thanks for any advise