BlueRu

Finished transplanting the ignition module, she now runs normal! Starts every time again! Many Thanks Naru!

found a used distrib. in the garage but it has a lot of play in the shaft. I installed it anyway just to see if the different ignition module would change the Brats behavior, and so far i have been able to start the car just fine when its warm. im confident is saying that the ignition module was indeed the culprit. i'll just pirate the module off it, and put it in my old one and hopefully be done with it. a cheap fix so far....

Naru are you referring to the ignition coil as a module or the module inside the Distrib? im thinking of just replacing the coil with a new one, and getting a reman or rebuilt distributor. I know this coil was replaced like 4-5 years ago, and the distrib im sure is original. I have close to 255k on the brat (although the mileage gauge doesnt work intermittently). Do you know any place to get a new distrib. wire harness? I rewired mine a few years back, but i was still unable to find those 90* connectors small enough for inside the distributor, so i had to reuse them. Thanks for all your help - excellent accuracy!

While the brat was still in its non starting state (warm) I took the additional readings: With ignition switch to "on": -testing between coil neg + battery neg gives me a steady light on and showing 12v -testing between coil pos + battery neg also gives steady light on and showing 12v While turning the ignition to "start" and holding, testing between the coil neg + battery negative the light stays on, but dims a little showing a 12v to 10v drop. doesnt pulse, just a steady 10v when starting

using test lamp and the (2) + & - terminals on the Coil: 1st start of the day = Flashing lights. They flash insync with the rpm of the engine. After letting it sit, so the car is in its non starting mode = no Flashing lights. Still get 12v though the center terminal with the ignition on in both cases. This means i need a coil?

No spark at plugs when warm. From what you said and what i read around here, the coil is the 1st thing to check. im not sure how to test it. Ill see if i can find my Chilton (or whatever) manual.....

I had a complete exhaust system block-up about 4 years ago when i was on the highway. The car still ran, I just couldnt drive it over about 25mph. I had the entire exhaust system replaced. Because of the Weber conversion, most of that stuff was removed or blocked off anyway. Good suggestion, I just dont think thats it. I can still start the car in the morning at drive it at length with no problems. Its just the stopping for a while and restarting seems to be where the problem starts. Thanks though!

Got a new set of cables (ThunderCore wire). Much better quality than my other ones. After I installed, I did notice an improvement in the problem, how ever it is still present. of course the 1st start of the day starts fine. The change occurs when i go start it after sitting about 30min. Now It will start, but only for a splt second, then the rpm gauge drops to zero, and then the engine dies. it will not start after this - back to its condition mentioned in above posts. Its odd that the rpm gauge goes to zero, then immediately the engine stalls. Normally the rpm gauge moves in sync with the starting of the car, now the rpm gauge does not move at all with the starting of the car. im not a mechanic but i fell like the problem is in the ignition switch, thats why the gauge drops to zero. any thoughts on what to do?

Well im glad that i tried testing the spark at night, cause its obvious that my distrib cables are not in good shape. its arcing everywhere. Whats a good set of cables to buy? a good balance of quality and price spark color looked orange. but i would want to retest after i get better cables. Naru, Thanks for the tip, I will probably buy that little gizmo. I dont think that its flooding, steady stream was a poor choice of words - sorry. its been working great since i put on the weber. I am not getting a strong gas odor

ok, thanks. I'll Test then report as soon as i can!

Problem Car: 86 Brat 4wd 1.8 OHV w/lifters 5-sp Manual Webber carb. from redline (under 2 years old) Problem started the other day. 1st start of the day, no problems. I made a short trip into town that did not require me to turn the car off. I got home, made a sandwich - ate lunch. Went out about 30 min later, turn the key, she makes all the normal starting sounds, just wont fire up. Looked under the hood, nothing obviously wrong there. checked connections, made sure things were plugged in nice and tight. Tried to start again, still no luck. Starting while pumping the gas seem to make it want to turn over more, as the starter seems to work a little faster, almost sounded a little closer to actually starting. During one of these starting & pumping gas sessions, it actually fired up. It idled normally. I decided to test drive it. Took it about 10 min. down the road, then i started to smell a burning smell - similar to plastic or rubber. The car began to misfire violently while i was going about 30mph. Engine then died completely. Tried to restart while coasting, no luck. Tried to pop the cluch while coasting, still didnt start. It had reverted back to being unable to start. She will start up normal the 1st start of the day. Normal is: Turn the key, fires up in under a second - never hard to start. She drives normal throughout that 1st start. Has a pre-existing condition of low compression in a cylinder, and bad rings in another, all on the same driver side - so it drives similar to when your 1st learning to drive a manual transmission - a little jerky. If I turn the Brat off, then turn it on immediately - it starts normally. But let it sit for a while, then no start. Checked: -fuel flow: 4 psi into carb. When both barrels wide open, fuel psi drops to 3 holds steady. -choke: appears to be set correctly. no binding on levers. choke supply voltage stable at 11.74 -all vacuum lines tight -air filter clean -fuses and fuseable links good -distrib looks good. nothing melted or burnt (cap & rotor 1 year old). Distrib cables are fairly new (just over a year) and they are not frayed or cracked, they still fit tight on the plugs and cap. distrib wire harness was replaced about a year ago -spark plugs just over a year old. still getting spark - not sure how strong though Any ideas on what to check next, possible solutions, or other topics to search here on the board, please let me know Thanks BlueRu

Wow, what service! thats essentially how I have it, The only difference is I have a valve cover filter on the passenger side, and I added a catch can on the drivers side. The drivers side is not exposed to the atmosphere. I thought you needed that fresh air flow entering the passenger side and exiting the drivers side though the crank case.

yea, Im thinking about it. I really dont think its anything I did. I always let it warm up, I dont drive it hard or anything, just trips around town. Kept the oil clean, etc. On one hand I wouldnt mind the experience of a rebuild. Im just not 100% sure how to handle it yet. The engine has certainly never lived up to its name yet. I guess it couldnt hurt to call them anyway. With the PVC are you talking like taking it out if the "t" and just giving it its own hose straight to the filter box?

The problem I was referring to with the oil in the intake was with the 1st engine, not this engine currently installed. The 1st engine had the stock setup with the Hitachi and all the emissions control stuff. When it was all switched over to the 2nd engine (current install), the oil in the intake issue was completely gone. The current weber setup also has no problems with oil vapor, always clean in the Weber's filter housing so is the PCV. Current set up with the Weber: I have a valve cover filter on the "in" side (passenger) and on the "out" side (driver) an oil catch can T'd in with the PCV and the Webers filter. Sorry for the confusion Thanks

This engine I have now is the warranty engine. The 1st engine I got from CCR arrived beat up. Had a smashed in oil pan and dinged up valve covers (im assuming caused by shipping), CCR said it would be "fine", but it never ran right. After had it for about 2.5 years and like 25 or 30K on it (something like that, all off the top of my head) and it was determined to have something wrong with the valves, not to mention it was sucking a lot of oil into the engine through the cover vents. It was returned under warranty and this one thats in the Brat now is the one that was sent to me from CCR. They seem to be nice people, but Im not sure if they warrant a warranty engine. That seems like a lot to ask.

Ok I retested the compression. my 1st problem is that I didnt take out all the spark plugs the 1st time. Although cylinder #2 is still lower than the rest (120psi) the other 3 read between 155 & 175psi (much better). Something else I noticed was my #4 newly installed spark plug was caked with oil, so was the old spark plug. Thats 2 cylinders on the drivers side both showing some problems. I didnt get to a leak down test, getting a tester is easy (pretty cheap to rent or buy), but I dont have a shop compressor and it looks like renting one would start to cost some $$ - I may just have a shop do the test for me, but Im not sure if I need one, im kinda thinking I dont as there is definitely something fishy on the drivers side cylinders. Im going to open up the EA81 and rebuild it again myself (Im strapped for cash). The engine was rebuilt like 2 years ago, and I only have like 10K on it if that. Im not sure why this would happen. Ill prob. just try to find a used one to put in for now, Then I can work on the one thats currently in the car at my own pace. I cant standing driving this thing, its like ridding with some one who's learing to drive a manual transmission - so jerky! Ive never rebuilt an engine before, but im mechanically inclined, and willing. Any rookie Mistakes I should watch out for? Thanks again for your help.

Thanks for the tips! I get back and test & re-test as soon as I can, hopefully Ill have better results. Ill post soon - I need to enjoy my weekend for now.

ok thanks GD, thats how its set up now, so I guessed right on that. Well.....I think I found the problem....Do they sell new engines in a bottle? I took compression readings, and im not sure what is the norm, but these dont sound good. Cylinder#: 1 - 125 psi 2 - 85 psi:horse: 3 - 135 psi 4 - 115 psi Tell me the secret fix for this, or just make up one. Thoughts? Thanks

I just installed a used disty and there is certainly improvement. the old disty did seem to have some play up and down, as well as right to left in its shaft, the used one has noticeably less play than the old one. The vac advance seems to be working, im just messing with some adjustments with the timing/idle/mix right now. the jerkyness on acceleration seems to be gone, but im still getting a hint of it while cruzing in the 2-4k range. also a noticeable boost in take offs from a stop. I have been reading some other posts and I see that some who have done the Weber swap have also removed the EGR valve and installed a plate there. I still have the value there, But I guess its really not needed any longer? Hatchsub: thanks for the offer, but I think I might stay un-regulated for now. The PSI seems to be stable. I do appreciate the offer though! Thanks!

well crap! you nailed it! Stupid Spectre junk! yea with out the regulator im getting 3-4psi constant at idle or full throttle. I guess I got ahead of my self getting the regulator in the fuel line, hopefully the Spectre psi gauge is of "OK" quality, cause thats what im using. Well I guess that is that. My second suspect was the distributor (shaft and all) as it is the last thing that has not been replaced recently. With the Weber I was able to remove a lot of potential problems, the engine is a fairly recent rebuild from CCR, the ignition solenoid has been replaced, im getting good spark, muffler & catalytic converter replaced with in 2 years. Im not really sure how to test the distributor as my problems, seem to be when accelerating and crusing in 2-4k rpm range. any thoughts? Thanks

yea I was curious too about the pressure with out the regulator. Ill check soon and post. I was thinking of maybe getting a pump with a higher psi output than required, I could then use the regulator to fine tune the fuel flow. Im sure i could get an OEM. Arent the oem pumps made by Kyosan Denki for subaru? I recall reading somewhere that this company also makes identical pumps for carter, essentially one in the same. Thanks for the reply, ill check the un-regulated psi

Greetings all! I have an 86 Brat EA81 with the Weber conversion from Redline. Webers been installed for about a year, and has been fine for the most part, although recently I have been getting lots of stutter and very poor MPG. Did a basic tune up with no change in performance (oil change/disty cap/rotor/pugs/cables/check idle, mixture and timing). fuel filters were changed when i put the Weber on. Ive done 3 seafoams with no change. I just installed a fuel regulator with a pressure gauge and i think my problem is too low of a fuel psi to properly feed the Weber. With the regulator set to 3psi, the meter doesn't budge from 0, and the Brat will stall shortly. If i set the regulator to the max 5.5psi, the gauge reads 2psi. Then if i give some throttle, the meter will go to 0 again and the car does seem to stutter. so, i don't now how fuel pumps respond when under a load. I would think that whether your at idle or full throttle, a good pump should maintain a constant pressure. Are my symptoms those of a bad pump? Has any one else with a Weber had this problem? the cause? maybe the change in carbs (from Hitachi) effected the pump because of different pressure requirements, now the old pump is tired? If i were to replace the pump should I use another Subaru OEM or something else? anyone found a good replacement pump? (Ive read some threads on this, I wouldn't mind some more input) Any other ideas? (no matter how ridiculous ) Thanks

wow what a responce - Thanks guys!! well fortunatly i wont be examining some worn out tits - the cable replacement did it - i really like easy fixes. Worka very good now!!! my next issue is where can i get a professionally rebuilt carb with out breaking the bank??? :Flame:

tits? how would i check these tits? are we still talking about my brat?

i went and ordered one today - i hope this is all that is. thanks for all the help ya'll!!!!