brighton98

When I floor my 03 XS to pass, it kicks down but bucks and surges badly until I get off the throttle. Is there a kickdown cable or adjustment, or could this be an engine issue? It has 105K miles; plugs/wires/fuel filter were done 2K miles ago.

You're right, Sam. I sometimes use recirc with heat to get the interior warm faster. When I use defrost, off the light goes. Thank you!!

The small red light on the button no longer lights up, and I don't know if I'm in recirculating mode or not. Anyone know how to replace the bulb or switch? Thanks.

They're on the roof, between windshield and sunroof. I have sanded of the rust, used rust converter and touchup paint to keep them at bay. Thanks for advising--I guess the hood deflector really won't help.

I have 09/10 Imprezas which both have small rust bubbles on the front 3" of the roofs. I'm guessing it's from stone chips. Is this common. and would a hood deflector help?

I hear it knock briefly and occasionally when I hit the gas. I already have a new sensor to install the wknd. Are the listed Iridium plugs the right heat range?

Thre plugs are NGK Iridium IX BKR5EIX-11. I'm also hearing the knock sensor kick in quite a bit; could a cracked sensor cause this?

I just did a 90k service, replacing the stock "r" plugs with NGK Iridium IX. Even after a few days driving to reset the ECM, the car just doesn't seem as responsive. A friend felt the same aboout his 10 OBS after iridiums, Is it better go go back to plain NGKs, or is this a mirage?

Thanks for your answers. The RS is a wagon. I will use the car for 75-100 highway miles and 25-50 city per week. This garage has done work for years on my Legacys.He always installs new tensioners and checks/replaces idlers. He also told me (without prompting) that he uses the latest updated Subaru OEM head gaskets.

I'm looking at buying one of these cars. Outback is$8000, 124,000mi. Imp is $6000, 152,000 mi. They are at a reputable indie Subaru garage, and both have new timing belts, etc. and head gaskets. What are your thoughts as to the better buy? Thanks.

I recently bought a 2010 Impreza 2.5. The manual calls for 4.2 qts. of oil for a change. However, that amount shows halfway between low and full on the dipstick. Is the manual wrong, or the stick; should I fill closer to the full mark of leave it be? Thanks.

Today my 98 Legacy twice had long cranking before starting, then had almost no power, as if it was on one or two cylinders. Once I could stomp the throttle, the problem seemed to clear. The rest of the day's starts were OK. I haven't checked codes but the CEL was never on. Your input is welcomed-thanks.

Is the car an automatic? I'm out on a limb here, but I had the same problem on my 98 Legacy (though with the proper key.) The shifter button was stuck down because the spring inside it broke. I removed the screw on the knob and took off the handle. I could then return the lock to off and remove the key; I pushed down on the shaft to shift it until I got a JY knob. Just a guess.......

My 95 Legacy climate system will not work on defrost mode--all air comes out the dash vents. I may replace the control panel, but I've heard it could be this motor. Where is it and how is it replaced?? Thanks.

OE T-stat. Filled and burped system according to Endwrench instructions. Problem existed before stat change. ECTS or gauge sensor?

I noticed that the temp gauge on my 95 2.2 was barely off the peg instead of close to 1/2 like usual. I changed the t-stat without effect. I did have a code for the ECTS months ago, but I cleared it and it never returned. Car runs fine-is this more likely an ECTS problem, or the gauge sender?? Thanks.

Will the 1-pc. lights form a 95 Lego interchange with the 2-pc. set on a 98?? It looks like they will fit, but what about bulbs--do I need to cut/splice the sockets for the different bulbs? Thanks.

My 95 Legacy has cold A/C, vent temp 45F, 26/215 pressures. At initial startup it always works, but when I shut the car then turn A/C on, it sometimes won't kick on; if I turn the button or switch off and on several times, it usually kicks in. I've swapped relays, to no avail--ideas?? Thanks.

The lever doesn't stay in place-it creeps toward cold. No adjustment screw on the control panel; could there be one elsewhere? Thanks.

The temp lever on my 95 Lego creeps toward cold unless it's all the way to the left. The diagram in the Hanes manual is nothing like mine--it shows a clamp and screw, while my cable is held by a c-clip. Any idea? Thanks.

Don't have a tach; it never stalls, but it's slow enough that the Subaru idle shake is more pronounced than it was before.

My 95 2.2 is idling a little slow lately. I've cleaned the IACV and TB,as best I can, without change. No stalling or hesitation, but I'd like the RPM's up a little. Could it be plug wires (originals AFAIK) or MAF?? Thanks.

I had the pressures checked and they're "normal." When this clicking starts, I found that shutting the A/C 2-3 times seems to stop the problem. If I turn the car off and later restart, I often must do the same thing, then it's good to go. The click is on the right side, sounds under the dash. Where's that relay again??

The A/C on my 95 Lego is fully charged and usually cools well. However, it sometimes goes through quick on/off cycles where is will get warm, and a quick clicking, like an on/off switch, is heard--it seems to be near the firewall or under the dash. My old Escort had two relays that caused this; does a Legacy also have them, or is there another cause? Thanks!

Yes it's the single piston caliper. I was looking on Rockauto.com and the sizes just confused me-it happens easily:lol:. Thanks Gary.