mrdeep2001
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Posts posted by mrdeep2001
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try removing the throttle body from the manifold, but be warned that this MAY necessitate replacing the gasket there.. I think mine actually broke at one point, but it was a clean break, so I just re used it anyhow. The gasket was kinda stuck in place, and when I put it together and ran it I didn't hear any vacuum leak right where it broke, so I think I'm OK.. It has run well for a WHILE since this happened, so I'm satisfied its OK...
In any case, gasket or no, it makes removing the IAC much simpler 
Yea, I was trying to avoid removing the TB...Well I am not really worried about it anymore. I told this guy whats wrong with the car and he's possibly interested. If he doesnt come by friday, the car is going to a junkyard. Anyone need anything from the car? Hubcaps?
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cant get a screw driver in there to fit either.
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Yea, I cant seem to get anything in there to clear the Power steering fluid reservoir...
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the IAC is the cylindrical object on the front of the throttle body here
and here
It can be removed from the TB with a couple of obvious screws, taken apart by two obvious screws, cleaned and easily re assembled without any guidance. Check the contacts on the plugs of the thing to make sure there isnt any corrosion, as this can cause faulty function as well.
The MAF unscrews from the tubular housing by four screws, and is easier to clean with the unit in hand. Be careful with it, though; those two wires are tiny heating elements, and if you break them you need a new sensor.
If those get tweaked and you don't seem to have a happy idle, then the next step would be to try cleaning the TPS (throttle position sensor) but we will jump that fence when we get there.
As far as taking out the IAC valve goes, is there anyway to do it without removing the power steering stuff?
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Yea I wouldnt wait TOO long tho. I did and now it is becoming increasingly difficult to drive.
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I believe the part the hose connects to is the part that gets gummed up, so you definately want to take that off. I dont know what round tube part you're talking about.
But when you take the iac valve off, there is a solenoid connected to it on the left side(cylindrical thingy) You would want to separate that as it is electrical and may get damaged when you clean it.
Again I do not know this for fact, just my recommendation.
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Its the big 2-1 so Ill probly be pretty
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Doug,
Thanks for the info, I'll get on that this weekend and hopefully see some improvement.
Deep:headbang:
P.S. Happy Birthday to me!
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Daeron,
How would you recommend cleaning the IAC Valve? Remove it from the TB and spray it with carb cleaner?
Deep
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Yea, Im currently debating on keeping it until its fixed. Really dont need 2 cars tho....
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So what do you guys think is a fair asking price?
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Thanks for the replys guys, You basically said what I was thinking. I put it up on craigslist and got a few offeres, Id just prefer to keep it in the family thats all...
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yea, washington is kinda far...
how bout i meet you half way and you fly me back?
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Hey guys,
No one's interested in my loyale? Itd be a nice lil project for someone.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80513
why doesn't anyone want it?
~Deep
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Time's up for me and the loyale, time to move on. Im gonna miss the old girl
It's funny, I always get so attached to my cars, even though some people consider them to be hoopties, its the little things, like my first car:
88 mercury cougar-had to jump power from the battery to the starter solenoid with a screw driver to get her started. my "sound system" that consisted of a 2 house speakers in boxes...
Anyway heres the link for my car if you're interested:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=660113#post660113
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check and see if the surging occurs in a certain RPM range like 2500-3000RPM or something like that. my car would surge in that RPM range in any gear. it may help narrow down the problem
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ah ok i knew the voltage would vary as you open up the throttle, just didnt know the mechanics of what was actually going on
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i apologize for my ignorance, but what do you mean by the wiper connector? The plug that connects to the tps? Mine has 4 wires on it.
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me tooooooooooooo..... its got better since its driven more,but still exists.
you might read both threads:burnout:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75533http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64610
there is also a thread somewere about great replacemernt FORD fuel pump,anyone got the link?
thanks let us know, i think its a world wide mystery.:cool:
I just want to make sure that the pump IS what is bad. I want to try and test it first.
Ford F150 fuel pump early 90's there is an intake pump and an inline pump closer to the engine. you want the one closer to the engine.
"Ford inline fuel pump works; Napa part number 2P74028."
courtesy of misledxcracker
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Atleast on the SPFI EA82's the fuel pump should cycle for a second or so when you turn the key on. That's how I diagnosed mine when it went bad - silence from the rear when I turned the key on!
What problems were you having with your car when you found it was the fuel pump? Any running issues, or just silence from the rear?
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I had a similar problem with my GL-10 before my wife got us stuck over here in Okinawa. I searched the forum and many of the more experienced guys pointed to the fuel pump beign the potential problem. So I changed it out, and guess what? The surging went away. I am not saying that the same thing that was wrong with mine could be the problem with yours, but if you are still running the OEM fuel pump that came with the car, you might try changing that out first. Also, if you have the money to invest in a Walbro high pressure pump(255lph), do it. I had to buy an aftermarket replacement from Autozone, because at the time it was my daily driver.But one of the things I have planned when I get back, is to replace it with a Walbro unit.
Patrick
Did you test it at all, or did you just swap it out?
Jub Nub keep me posted b/c I am having the exact same problem. My car was doing the exact same thing, except now my car seems to lose power around 2000-2500 RPM
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maybe he's been lucky enough for his not to kick the bucket....yet:grin:
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The link didnt work and Harrys has a upull in Allentown about 40 miles north of you.
try this:
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I have a white 92 loyale sedan. im in philly. could you also check and see if the door has power windows and if there is an IAC valve on the car?
For finding the IAC valve if you dont know where it is:
Follow intake boot until it ends and go to front of engine. It will be in that general area. Actually you can just follow the vacuum hoses. There will be one coming right out of the top. The hose will be a larger hose.(not the skinny little hoses).
Heres a pic:http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/i...ndard/AC24.jpg
P.S. anyone know of any u-pull-its near the philly area that have old subaru's? everytime I found one and checked they never had any....
Lagging and idling issue in Loyale
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Hey daeron, I think my hubcaps are different than yours, on mine i counted 20.
If these are the ones you are looking for, let me know.