freeldr

Picked the Vents up from West Marine for $8 each. They have white for the same price but they also have stainless and chrome, both are much more.

So i was bored and decide it was time to Make the car faster with a brand new set of Marine speed holes! After looking around and not finding what i wanted i decided to copy someone else :-D. Muddeprived from Cherokeetalk.com Had a set of Vents he put onto his XJ that turned out pretty good. So i ordered a pair and figured if anything im out $16 for the vents and finally get to put on the nice hood. extremely easy to put in, the vents reached both mid and top ribs in the hood. The Vents only seem to stick up out of the hood about 3/4 of an inch. After doing that i had ordered the Weber air filter adapter kit. Much cheaper then the snorkel top if you can find it. That went on with ease. Someone mentioned on the board about using a "Modified" S-10 air filter housing. i grabebd one from the yard and the only modifying i had to do was pinch the lip where it sat on the adapter so it would fully seat. The Air filter housing comes out to a wide mouth where it has a plastic end on it going to almost a 4" round. i flipped it upside down so it would come from the back and not get in the way of anything. I would LIKE to finish the snorkel this weekend but that is only if time permits. yeah yeah i know its a COMPLETE mess under the hood. thats for another day when im bored out of my mind.

The EA82 rack being longer isnt a bad thing, we are putting Loyale front control arms underneath pushing the tires out a little over an inch. did the arm swap on the hatch and had to use Legacy Tierod ends.

im rather interested in a EA82 Rack in my brat as well, but of course im Gen2. the EA82 racks seems to be much easier to find.

Needs more stuff!, hook up to that boat before ya leave! ;-D

I just buy parts and use all there tools ;-D, never had to pay labor.

If your looking to get work done, there is a Shop in Kent, East Valley Auto. they specialize in subarus. do alot of great work. i tend to find my self there on weekends trying to make a mess :-D

Very nice, like the touch on teh center caps. have to say im jealous that my brat is such a rust bucket ;-D

Snap that bolt right off, then drill it out. OR! you could get lucky after heating it up a bit to loosen it up.

Thanks bob and loyale, i'll give those both a shot and see how it turns out

Turning low speeds was kind of hard to avoid, coming out of the drive way. tbh i was to scared to get a running start and try turning lol

Tongue weight shouldnt have to do with anything as its a Flat tow, there is only rolling weight. I'll try and get pics of the towbar setup up so you guys can view it. for turning, some time it was tight turns and others were wide so i dont believe that is the issue. as far as Locking the steering! ouch! i would need an extra set of tires i just dont care about.

So the title pretty much says most of it, i have a lifted Brat with 205/70 R15's that i was test towing last night through parking lots before i actually took it anywhere, I was a Manufactured Tow bar that was removed ff another brat(stock) and everything bolted up just fine with the exception to 2 large cables that were originally attached somewhere on the brat suspension. Sadly the cables where destroyed from previous owner, but i figured i didnt need them. I havent seen any other towbar setup with thees cables before. OK! but the real problem i am having is when im towing the brat, straight is fine. When i turn left the brat goes right, when i turn right the brat goes left. So far all of this was tested at low speed and it was the same results each time. Any suggestions would be great.

If you get a chance, try and direct a few to the south king county yards! ;-P

well i found the solenoid and it seems to be fine, clocked everytime i unplugged it but there is still dieseling. could i need a carb rebuild??? and if so are they difficult to do??