trikerbob

Yes, I thought it was for the turbo, but I can't see any reason why it won't work on a non turbo just as well. I just don't want to play roulet with the wires and risk burning something out. One wire has to go to positive and one to negitive side of coil to run, the other two will not be used. Was hoping someone might be able to open one up and see where the wires go. Bob

Hi guys, I purchased a reman Dist off Ebay. Wasn't exactly what I thought it would be, but I'm sure it will work for my use. I Belive it might have been a Brat dist about 87'. Inside it has 4 little posts to plug wires into. they are lettered D,B,T,C. I need to know the 2 that go to the coil. What one to - side and what to + side. Thanks for your help. Bob

Thanks guys for your responses to my questions. I kind of figured it wasn't going to work without an adapter. This info is for a friend of mine who already has a left over EA82 trans that he wants to use just because he has it and it was a freebee. So he might just go ahead and stay with the Ea82 motor, but he has been interested in the EJ22 with the mods to Dist and carb for the extra 400cc's it would bring to the project, but it might not be worth the extra problems it will take to mate them up. We'll just have to wait and see.

Hi guys, got a question for you. Will the EJ 2.2 motor bolt up to the Auto trans of the EA82 1986 car? This would be used in a Trike build so no problem with sensors of other wiring issues or fitment problems. What needs to be done to make them work together? Thanks, Bob

Thanks Jerry, I'll take a look. Bob

Hi guys, I've built a few Subaru Trikes now using the EA82 motor with great success. I'm now ready to build with the EJ22 motor. I understand the EJ22 can be carbed (intake machined top except a carb) no problem there. The part I don't know, is what Distributors can be made to fit. I have read on this forum that the 82 to 84 Ford Escort is one that has been used. These being very hard to find these days, are there any others that can be used? The Dist. would have to be vacuum advanced type as I need the complete setup to be as simple as possible with no wire harness or computer needed. Thanks in advance for any information any of you can give on this subject. Please be as detailed as possible so I will know for sure what I need to look for. Thanks, Trikerbob

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions. Since this build will be for a women, and since I don't charge a bunch for my labor, I do my very best to keep things as simple as I can. My ideal thing would be to find a complete take out motor with under 150,000 miles that is known to be a solid runner. It could be a SPFI or a Carbed motor as I do have a carb manifolid I could replace the SPFI one with. We are not required to be smoged on a Trike so that is not an issue, but as I move up into the EJ series of motors, things start to get more complacated and heavier and needing more cooling. Plus its an area I haven't ventured into yet with one of my own to know where the problems might be. So I don't want to build for a buyer and possibly find it back in my garage every week to adjust or fix something that we didn't know would happen. In my area, I'm having a hard time finding very many good running cars with EA82's or EA81's that are cheap enough to pick up just for the motor. Others that are cheap, are wore out or don't run to be able to tell if its any good or not. I'd jump on a 40K JDM complete crate motor, but its rare to see one of those now too. Its all 2.2 and mostly the 2.5's out there now, the EA's are to old to be that low in milage. Bob

Thanks to you all for your answers and comments. One of my concerns about the EJ22 is that I have not done that one myself yet to fully understand the problems I might incounter. I'm building for a paying customer and hate to get involved in something I have no experience with. The extra weight of the EJ22 is also a concern as there is already a lot of weight back there the way I build off the VW torsion bar. So I guess I better either stay with a VW motor for her or find a good carbed EA81, but thats getting harder to do these days. Thanks guys Bob

Hi GD, my concern about the EJ22 is that it is quite a bit more powerfull and requires more cooling than the little EA82. I doubt that the 2 small radiators that I have made work on our Trikes with the EA82's probably wouldn't keep the heat down. There is so little room to mount radiators now, that I'm not sure I could make it work very easily. I'll have to think about that one some. Bob

Ok the Trike I'm going to be building is going to be for a Women. Just how much difference would the lower compression make if I removed the turbo and carbed it? Is the turbo single port or duel? I have a single port manifold that I could use. My big problem is finding a good carbed EA82 is getting very hard to find. I seem to run into Turbos more often, thats the only reason for my post. If its not a big difference in the performence of the motor, I'd just buy the first one that comes along =turbo or carbed, as long as I know I have the right intake to convert it. Thanks for your feed back Bob

I'm looking to build another Trike soon and I run into the Turbo motors sometimes in my search for the carbureted EA82's I know nothing about the turbo's so I need a little help from you guys. Question: would the Turbo require the computer to work? Remember I don't use any of the car wireing harness or computer. Just want it to be as easy as possible to set up in the Trike. What would need to be there to work? Question2: if it did have to have the computer can the motor be converted over to a stock intake manifold with the Weber Carb setup and run as well? are the turbo's duel port or single? I have a single port manifold I could use. Any info about this will be very helpful in my search for what motor I need to look for. Bob

Ok, I found one at JC Whitney for $24.99. I'll get that and get it hook up. Thanks, Bob

Hi GD, could you give me a direct link. I'm not haveing any luck at all at the Summit site. tried other sites using the sandwich and flex-a light name and didn't get anything. Isn't there a way to hook it up so its just a by pass cooler where the pressure wouldn't be an issue. I was thinking I could get the input by using a T at the oil sending unit, so I'd still be able to use the sending unit light hook up and maybe tap a hole into the oil pan to return the oil. This would give me added valum of oil as well. Probably another quart to fill the cooler and lines. Whould there be any problem with that kind of setup? Thanks for your input. FYI, I picked up an 180 degree stat today also to see if that might help to lower my temp a few degrees. Haven't tested it yet but will later today to see if it runs any cooler. Bob

Ok, I have an oil cooler thats been laying around for a couple years, I might as well use it. I know where to hook up the INLET hose, but I don't see a place where It can feed back into the crankcase. I'm sure many of you are using oil coolers, so how did you hook it up? EA82 1.8 Motor Thanks, Bob

Yes I did Bob