Zebisko
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Posts posted by Zebisko
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Diamond Edition?
Was that really real? Because the only one I saw was riced OUT
I had a diamond edition hatchback. Rusted out, sadly.
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Oops on the wrong forum, I guess I wasn't paying attention
And I am pretty sure you are correct about the struts! It's only a little bouncy... -
Autocrossed my '95 legacy brighton at grissom AFB in Peru, IN, and I'd have to say it was a blast! Definitely recommend it to anyone who can spare the tires. And yes, the front mudflaps would touch the ground
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From what I have been taught, paper filters better than cotton gauze. No real personal experiences in reliability, however, except for the fact that the drop-in filters have never added any noticeable increase in performance over stock.
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Oh...that had to hurt!
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I had a Camaro that had the rattle things on the wheels. Not too bad when cruising, but in an alleyway was it annoying.
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What appears to happen is that when the car is put under a farely heavy load, it doesn't completely burn its fuel. When it is low load, everything is fine. If you notice in the second and third graphs, the HCs and COs spike under acceleration from 25-50 mph, but when they let off and maintain 50 mph, the numbers drop like a sack of bricks.
It could have something to do with the secondary barrel, or the power valve. But what might be another possibility is that your ignition wires, distributor cap, rotor, or coil might be weak. I'd check your cap and rotor before messing with the carburetor.
Also, can you get the graph for the other emissions test?
I worked late last night, so didn't have a chance to fiddle with the car. I did pop off the air cleaner cover after the drive home and confirmed that the choke had opened all the way.If it's running too rich, then I've either got too much fuel, or not enough air. I'm trying to think of things that might cause that...
The article Spiffy linked to mentioned leaky power valves... I'm guessing that's some bit in the carb that squirts fuel. Is there any way to check that it's not leaking?
What if the little flapper bit in the secondary barrel was not opening? Any way to check it?
I also poked around the emission testing website and found that I could download the trace from my last attempt. It's all greek to me, but I'll post it for your viewing pleasure.
-Bill
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Back when I had my 4 speed 4wd 1984 Hatch I would get around 32 mpg. City, highway, driving style, it didn't quite matter, although I wouldn't really break 65 MPH, as all I had was an open y-pipe at the time.
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I need to get a hatchback from out there with little rust. I looked at one a little north of Chicago and loved it, but alas; the rust was too bad for me to buy. I'd love to have another EA81 4WD, that was a fun car:o. Beautiful car and country, though, when I went down to Kentucky to Hucks to get the trans for the XT6, just the little bit of mountains and hills was awesome. A welcome change to the super-flat Chicago area.
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Hey, if anyone is interested, I could pull this intact SPFI set-up off this car in my local junkyard. Also if you need any other parts, I could get it if it is in good shape. PM me if you are interested.
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Oh, I certainly hope not... The guy I bought my hatchback I had gave it to me with it and said it was a spare, but he was kind of weird, so who knows. I compared it to the old axle and it seemed the same, but the old one had fallen apart on me, so there may have been small differences. I'll see if it wants to go in yet, but if not it would make sense, as I have done ball joints on these before and I definately do not remember fighting with it this much.
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Well, I have been working on the $100 EA81 coupe I bought from Milemaker for a while now. It started out needing a ball joint, but then I broke the axle and strut(leading) rod. Got a used leading rod and had an EA81 axle lying around so now I have everything I need, but I have one little problem; the ball joint won't line up with the control arm, it is a good half of an inch off of it. I'm not entirely sure I have the axle all the way through the knuckle, so I am going to tighten the nut a bit. But should that fail me, I could definately use some advice?
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Congraturations! I actually like the new Imprezas, so I say thumbs up!
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The clutch is annoying and kind of jerky, and I figure, since the transmission's syncro's are not too good for 2nd or 3rd gear, I'd get another transmission and replace the clutch as well. And now since that transmission is making horrible noises, it only makes this more reasonable.
The problem with the shifter is that it got stuck in 4th on me, and not the fact that it is sloppy. I couldn't care less about it being sloppy, but 4th is a bad gear to start off in.
Tranny oil is at a fine level and smells like gear oil should.
I only had a small hunch the coil was a problem as it was my only thing to go on at that point, although I will try the IAC and the filter and maf cleaning soon.
Brakes did work wonderfully, I think that me not getting it lined up properly may be the problem. I admit I didn't pay attention to that, as I do happen to be a moron at times.
She is a good car, she is just in the "wear-in" time for me.
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Yeah, I was planning on calling Jim tomorrow because he said he normally has sundays off. I figured I'd wait until then to ask about it, unless he gets on the boards sometime soon.
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Hmm, all good things, however, another issue arose this morning. Whenever the clutch is engaged, especially when accelerating in second gear, it makes a clackity clack every second or two. I was hoping it was the clutch, as I abused it quite much yesterday when I had to drive home in 4th. I'm going to see about taking some sound clips if I can.
The biggest problem with the brakes is the fact that they now stop the car very poorly. I wish I could have gotten normal brakes, but there were only the ceramics in town, and the brakes had gotten pretty bad.
I didn't have to look for the pipe, it fell off and rolled right by the drivers door, so I just opened the door, and burnt myself pretty good with the pipe.
As with buying this car, I only wish I had the money and time to both fix this one, and operate a different DD. Still selling Bucky?
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Well, as is customary for a car that I have just bought, my 1988 XT6 has started to break on me. I have ideas, but I need help with a few things.
1. Shifter is sloppy(not a big deal) but on the way home, got stuck in 4th gear. I played with it for a while, and it worked again, so I bet I need new bushings, any other ideas are welcome.
2. Transmission is crunchy, however I attribute the shifter being the cause of that.
3. It has started to misfire and surge a decent amount, and gas mileage is getting worse. For the first couple tanks, it was getting 25-26. Then down to 23, then to 20. It may just be my driving style, I dunno. I have a hunch it is the coil, as there is an aftermarket MSD Blaster 2 on there, and I don't trust it for pretty much no reason, like I said, a hunch. I want to check it, but I need the resistance values for it, so if anyone would have that and tell me, I would really appreciate it.
4. The brakes worked great. They were worn out, so I replaced them. Now, they work like crap. At first they are fine, but then more pedal effort doesn't really help, and after some mileage was put on them, they now screech like a banshee. Also, when moderate force is exherted on the pedal, a little *pung* sound is emitted from the drivers side. I put ceramic pads on there, so maybe that? Also, the boot around the caliper piston on the driver's side is torn.
5. Also, though it seemed the exhaust tip was firmly attached to the exhaust, it seems to have fallen off. Just a comment.
6. Clutch suggestions? The one on there is not very good, so I wanted to get a new one eventually.
Although that seems like a long list, I am happy with the car, I just really want a car to work well for me for once. Please help!
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Well, I have purchased R.S. off of Moodybluesr. I have to say, I am pleased with the vehicle. The only foible so far is that one time when coming home for about 5-10 seconds, it started backfiring badly at a light. After that, it was perfectly fine. Also, sometimes while flooring it above 5500 RPMs, it appears that a cloud of unburnt fuel wafts out, so I'm thinking some sensor is going bad? I'm going to dig into the FSMs after I get out of school tomorrow and start testing things. Apart from that, it is a fine automobile. There is some rust holes, I want to take pictures and show them, and see what some opinions are as to how to deal with them. Fiberglass? Patch panels? Duct tape? Stay tuned to find out!
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If you do end up getting a solid lifter engine, make good access for the valve covers. Adjusting them is simple, but if you don't have good room, it kind of sucks. In the car it is a bit of a pain, but in a buggy, you could make quite good access for it. Another suggestion, is to check the oil pressure of it. Not a big deal if it is low, but if it is, you will need a new pump, they will wear out on an EA81. Also not difficult to replace.
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Well, I don't know about the normal Cobalts, but I drove an SS Supercharged, and it ran like a bat out of hell! Fun car, if I do say so myself.
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Let's see;
- 1994 Ford Tempo-2.3 4 auto current DD I got free of charge from my mother
- 1996 Chevy Beretta-3100 V6 AutoT-boned car I got from friend that I will part out
- 1986 Chevy Camaro-305 V8 Auto that I can't seem to get running right-May be being sold to friend's brother
And the Soob, soon to be sold to a buddy is a 1984 GL 3AT Coupe
New Soob-Ruby Sue the used-to-be-owned-by Moodybluesr's 1988 XT6
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My friends Honda's speakers are starting to go on her 2002 Honda Civic LX coupe, and I wanted to buy her new ones for her birthday. I am led to believe the fronts are 6.5" rounds, and 3.5" deep. The rears are 6" by 9", and 6" deep.
Now I have not much knowledge on speakers and the such, so I'm going to have to rely on others information, and I wanted to ask you guys to see if you have any ideas. I want better than stock performance, but it has to be compatible with stock wiring and head unit, so nothing rediculous. So any ideas anyone:confused:?
P.S. Thanks in advance!
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Now, neither GD or I called you a moron, you brought up two vehicles and said that, as a whole, Subarus are bad because of one bad experience with Subaru and a good experience with Toyota, at least is what I gathered from your post. I'm just trying to tell you that if by saying all Subarus are bad because of the Phase I HG issues, then you'll be missing out on some great cars.
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As far as that moron comment, I'd like to add, I share GD's views on that. If you generalize all of an automotive company into this box because of one bad experience, then you are incredibly short-sighted.
Example:
My '91 Celica I had, within 3000 miles of my buying it at 165,000ish, the differential started to self destruct, and the engine developed a rod knock. And it wouldn't stay in fifth gear, like many older Celica's with that transmission, that Toyota never bothered recalling. But my brother drove a '94 Ford Tempo (mine now) for 45,000ish miles with changing the oil 3 times in those miles, and overheating many times, one one occasion burning off 2 out of 5 quarts of oil, and 3 quarts of transmission fluid, and requiring a gallon and a half of antifreeze to refill, and (quite amazingly) still runs quite strong. Using the logic GD was referring to, that means that I should always buy Ford, and shout from the mountain tops that Toyota should never be bought under any circumstances. I think we know that I don't actually feel that way
Rarest Old-School Subaru Part or Option?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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These are the only pictures I have left of the Diamond edition. Probably one of my favorite cars I've owned and also least driven cars.