Voluptuary5

25.86 has been the last year's average over 10,332 miles. Looks like low 20's around town and high 20's highway. Low of 18 (one time only and no idea why--bad fill-up?) and multiple highs of 29. -V5

I'm sure this wouldn't be the case with every public library in the land, but I've been to two different county libraries here in Oregon and they had all the manuals. One of libraries actually let you check 'em out, the other wouldn't but let you photocopy the pages. I don't think you'll find much cheaper... -V5

Opus (and others), I would highly recommend getting AAA. In my humble opinion, it is a fantastic service for anyone but maybe ESPECIALLY for a father worrying about his young daughter away from home. For about $100 a year (and that's for their best package--I think their basic is around $55) you get complete automobile piece of mind. If your car were to break down, run out of gas, have a dead battery, you call the "800" on the card and they dispatch a truck ASAP. And it seems like the towing companies give AAA customers priority. The one time I needed it, it was a god-send. I had some random, hack shop replace the timing belt on my '95 Legacy. They totally "F'd" everything up. Long story short, on the way to my brother's wedding it slipped, had only one or two cylinders left, limped it off I-5 at Corning California, called AAA, they showed up, put me on a flat bed tow truck, took me all the way to the nearest Subie dealer in Reading California (>50 miles) for absolutely no charge (but I gave the driver a nice tip). Subie dealer rushed me in and out in the time it took me to eat a long lunch. However, that being said, AAA can seem a little expensive on the surface. But I would argue with all of the other services AAA provides (free road maps, trip planning, insurance, etc.) as well as all the discounts you get and motels, automotive stores (NAPA), restaurants, etc., it easily pays for itself, NOT TO MENTION THE PIECE-OF-MIND. But the best part of it is, if you ever have to use it, it doesn't get reported to your insurance company. For example, if you have "towing insurance" bundled with your car policy and you have to use it, in almost every case it counts as an insurance "claim". That means your rates most likely will go up, or worse, if you already the maximim number of claims on your policy (which can be as low as 2 or 3), they could drop your insurance all together. Again, it's just my opinion, but if you have towing insurance, drop it and use the money you save there to buy a AAA card. And if you don't have either, you should at least look into AAA. Sorry to be so long winded and I promise I don't work for AAA... -V5

Mark, If it makes you feel better, i got the exact same quotes. $800 for an AWD rebuild and the $3200 was for a band-spanking-new, complete tranny. I also see that you are in Washington. If you're on the west side, just throw the FWD fuse in and don't worry about the TB. If you're in the Cascades or east, $800 may be well worth it. Like the others told me here earlier, $800 beats a car payment. -V5

400,000 is impressive, no doubt! 16 times around the earth, that's impressive too! But just for fun (or not) think about how much gas $$$$ that is?!?! If you assume $2.00/gallon average, 27 miles/gallon....well, that's darn near $30,000!!! -V5

Thanks for the write-up Guy! I found it very useful. I had the same concerns as you about safety while driving at night. Your pics with the headlights shining against the fence say it loud-n-clear. I'm going to give it a shot today. Thanks again, -V5

Sorry to slightly highjack this thread but does the oxidation (yellowing) of the lenses tend to occur on the outside, inside, or both? -V5

Yep, To reiterate Ericem said, definitely maintenance records are a very nice so you know for sure what has and hasn’t been done and also that the AWD is working. I have a ’95 Legacy Sedan (which I absolutely love) but the AWD has recently decided to go nipples-up. When you go for the test drive, pull on to a gravel road/driveway and let your foot “accidentally” slip off the brake onto the gas. You’ll know right away. The tires should hardly spin. Otherwise, my Subie has been flawless besides scheduled maintenance (timing belt, brake job, etc.). Hope that helps! Good luck! -V5

Hey all, If you got a 1995 Subaru (give or take a couple of years) I'd love to know how many miles you have on yours (or how many miles yours had on her when she died). I'm trying to get a feel for whether or not she's worth putting a few bucks into to ride her a few more years... I'll show you mine if you show me yours: 148,000 miles and still counting for my sweet girl... -V5

Hey all, The AWD in my '95 Subaru Legacy is DONE! Ka-put! No Mas! Nada! Nothing! My question to you all is, if it was your car and you otherwise plan on driving her to the most noblest of deaths, would you spend ~$1000 to have the AWD rebuilt. I've been able to get around just fine the past year with no AWD with only some minor inconveniences but, you know...AWD is a nice safety feature, even in the rain or on sharp curves. Some quick background: 1995 Subaru Legacy Sedan (sorry, I said that already). Almost exclusively dealer maintained on schedule. ~148,000 miles. No other problems THAT I'M AWARE OF... So WWYD (what would you do)? Thanks kids! -V5

Touche, good point! But at least it made me feel better THINKING I was getting better mileage. I'm going to throw away everything I know and start learning here anew... Well, I'll give her a yank the next time I'm at 55 on a snow-packed mountain pass and let you know how it turns out. You know, if the AWD was kicked-in and all... That's really funny!!! I've also have tried the approach of not putting it in the fridge in the first place but apparently I'm not above drinking luke-warm beer. Whatever, unlike my AWD, it still works... -V5

...but how would I get the beer out? Okay, okay. I see your point. And I'm all about utility--things should be used. Your point is I should be stoked to have 148,000 miles after 12 years on her, and I am. I was just wondering if there was a way to make it last longer--you know, prophylactically speaking. As you can see, I'm still in denial about all this and only now starting to come to terms with this. So do you also recommend that even though I have nothing going to the rear wheels, I should NOT have the FWD fuse installed (I don't have binding)? It was my understanding there was no problem with leaving the FWD fuse in for extended periods of time and that one could even squeeze a couple more MPG's out of the beast. And at $3.00 a whack, an MPG here and a MPG there would save me a little coin (maybe even pay for an AWD rebuild). And I wouldn't actually have to pull the fuse in the rain. I live in Western Oregon. It rains here 7 months out of the year...STRAIGHT. I would just pull the fuse in November and put it back in sometime in June. -V5

Sorry, dredging this old thread of mine back out. I was wondering, since the loss of my AWD just seems to be due to old-age/wear-and-tear, does it stand to reason that I could have prolonged the life of my AWD by driving as often as possible in FWD mode? Say during the summers or other times when I wouldn't have needed it (and, of course, I was diligent about rotating the tires)? Just wondering if I decide to drop one grand-ski ($1000) on this thing, can I maximize its life by driving more in only FWD? Would this also be a good strategy for newer Subarus--ones, say, with the AWD still working? Thanks all! -V5

$550 is about what I paid at the dealer which is were I recommend it be done. I used an independent mechanic the first time, they got it all wrong, belt slipped, left me stranded, had to get towed, and have a new one installed by the dealer anyway. It is cheaper to do it once, and correctly, for a little bit more money than possibly cutting corners at an independent and having to pay for it twice. Not to mention the cost of towing and the hassle. -V5

Thanks B.B.! That's good to know! -V5

That's a very valid point, OB99W. However, living in Oregon where everything is damp 7 months out of the year I haven't noticed a significant difference in defrost capabilities without the A/C. Granted, the outside temp here is much more mild than most places in the winter so maybe that's why I've been able to "cheat" through it. Any guesses what an A/C recharge costs? Can one do it themself or do you need a special license to deal with the coolant? -V5

My '95 Legacy was doing the exact same thing. I never use the A/C (I'm a sunroof open, windows down kinda-guy) and was mostly just concerned about the loss of gas mileage by it coming on all the time. Living in Oregon, there are only about 5 days a year you beg for A/C so I just pulled the fuse (a lot cheaper than the re-charge). Now I just drink a little extra water on those really hot days. Haven't had a problem since... -V5

"Mistresses"! That's really funny! I'm of the same mindset that cars are tools. "The Jones" have long left me behind--I stopped keeping up with them years ago. I'm VERY frugal but at the same time all about quality. It's cheaper in the long run to buy quality over cheap junk (although I'm way beyond Window's '98, John). I'll drive my Subaru until she dies... And then I'll buy another... -V5

1995 Subaru Legacy Sedan "L". Midnight blue, stock rims, aftermarket tires, moonroof, CD Changer, A/C purposely disabled, 4-door, and full-time FWD (not by choice). Total average this past calendar year = 25.89 MPG High = 29.06 MPG (middle of August) Low = 18.66 (middle of January) I was actually worried about my fuel mileage as well but it looks like I'm on par with others. -V5

That's right, Nipper, stuff does happen. But all things said-and-done, I couldn't be happier with my Legacy. It has already lasted twice as long as I was counting on. Every day is a bonus in my eyes and I don't forsee her giving up on me any time soon. How does Subaru make any money if their cars never die and people don't have to buy new ones? Hmmmm... -V5

Hey, thanks Gyuunuuya. That is a phenomenal write-up and the pictures greatly add to it--nice touch But I have to say, after reading it, I’m going to have to do some serious introspection and see if I have what it take to tackle it by myself. I don’t know why, but I have always had a mental block to ever doing any transmission work myself. $1000 doesn't seem so bad all of a sudden after seeing what you went through. Afterall, what is three days of your life worth... But... I can do it… I can do it... I know I can do it… Even better, how close to Oregon are you? What are you doing next weekend? The pizza and beer are on me??!! -V5

UPDATE: Project successfully finished (applause). It was actually incredibly easy once I knew the order (thank you John). Feel a little bit silly, actually. Here's a quick write-up to hopefully "pay-it-forward" for all the help I've received here at USMB and to help others unfortunate enough to own the sedan. There are only a total of 5 bolts and 4 (now 3 for me) plastic fasteners to remove. The good news is NO molding has to be removed to get that panel out. Remove the two 12mm bolts for the bottom of the back seat located near the floor directly under the right and left seats. Unhook the middle of the bottom of the seat by lifting up on the front slightly and pushing down on the back where the two fold-down seats separate (acutally it is slightly off-center). Now slide the seat forward and it should slide right out. Set out of the way and keep an eye out for curious neighborhood cats (if performing procedure out-of-doors). Now remove the 12mm bolt holding that hook on that you just unhooked the seat bottom from. There are two more 12mm bolts, one on each side holding on the sides of the seat back down on two hooks at the top. After you get those out, just lift the entire back portion of the seat up and slightly back (there are two hooks at the top you have to lift it up and off of). You don't even have to take the seat backs off if you don't want but it will make it much lighter if you are doing it by yourself. Next, climb in the trunk on your back and loosen the 2 10mm bolts holding the rear brake light. You have to loosen the bolts quite a bit as there is also a plastic fastener towards the front of the car on the bottom of the rear brake light assembly. Don't forget to unplug the wiring. Now take a blunt object (NOT THE PALM OF YOUR HAND) and SLOWLY work the plastic fasteners up and out. If you do this too quickly, you'll punch the plastic fastener right up through the particle board--the reason I now only have 3 fasteners securing the panel and plus it messes up the carpeting. Come back to the front, lift the panel up in the middle so it bends slightly to get it out from under the molding running down the rear window stays and start sliding it out. When you get half way, stop. Feed the rear brake assembly through the hole (trust me, it will fit, you just have to find proper orientation). Slide it the rest of the way out. Boom! You got it!! To get it back together, just repeat the process. They only words of caution I have is to be aware of those plastic fasteners poking down from the panel when you are sliding it back in and don't forget to feed the rear brake assembly back through. Know where the holes are for the plastic fasteners and don't stop sliding in the panel until you got 'em lined-up (you can easily see them from the below). Give 'em a good wack and you're most of the way home. Make the carpeting look pretty. Re-secure the rear brake assembly and put the seating back in. Total, in-and-out was about a 30-minute job plus whatever else you are looking to accomplish. Piece-of-cake, really! I only managed to bloody 3 knuckles. Thanks again everyone for ALL of your help!!! This is a great forum you all have here. -V5

GrossGary, I'm a militant pet owner myself but I'll consider myself warned... There was no bracket on the rear brake light. Just two large bolts that only need to be loosened so the assembly can slide back and then up and out after it gets unplugged. You are also exactly correct about the plastic fasteners. I popped them up and out from inside of the trunk with that big hammer of mine (I think there are 4 or 5 of 'em). I knew this was going to be a pain and why I've put it off for years. It's really just an excuse to hide from the family. I hate the Holidays... I also just re-consulted my Chilton. Looks like I missed two bolts, one on each side, down below the rear seat cushions. Remove those two bolts and everythign should lift up and out. But that means the ENTIRE rear seat, top and bottom, has to come out. That sucks! But on a positive not, it should kill a few more hours... Thank you for your help, -V5

John, I'm sure you're right. The back rest will have to come out which means the entire rear seat will have to come out just to get at it. I guess that is my ultimate question, "how do I get the rear seat trim assembly out"? Also, thanks for the heads-up on those grab loops. I didn't even think about it. But it wouldn't be the first time I had to climb in through the trunk to fix one of my mistakes. I guess I got lucky last night. Thanks again, John, for your help on this and the AWD! -V5

GrossGary, I apologize. I didn't mean to offend you or any others. I wouldn't kick the dogs even if I could catch 'em. And since I'm clearing the air here, just for the record I didn't really cry, either, and only swore a little. But I really did yank, pull, and pry my little heart out. Those headrests are in there very solidly. I was inverted in the trunk most of the time with a flashlight and big hammer and all I could see was the two bolts holding in the brakelight and those snap fasteners. I did manage to get the edge against the rear window to lift up but couldn't get it out because the angle of the rear window is steaper than the angle to get that panel out. -V5