scotte6
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Posts posted by scotte6
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sorry...another try at the pic.
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I have attached a picture to make sure we are talking about the same sensor. If we are, it was plugged in correctly. Still no good.
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Nothing was done inside the car. It did not do this before pulling the motor to change the head gaskets.
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Sorry, forgot to add that point that the defroster is off. I think I was on the right sensor earlier today. It is plugged in. I unplugged and re-connected to make it it was making a good connection. There was two wires going to it and I think one was white with blue trace and the other was a yellowish color. Does that sound right? That was one thing I checked over because it made sense that something was left unplugged but I can't find it!
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I just got the engine back in my 04 Legacy and the cooling fans run as soon as I turn the key on. I ran it for about 20-30 mins and the heat gauge did not move. Are these both related to the temp sensor?
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I am looking for the torque specs and the procedure for torquing the heads and intake. Tried searching but did not find anything for my specific engine. Thanks!
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I don't have the car. I have a chance to buy it, wanted to check out what I was getting in to before I bought it. From what you guys are saying it is very common, and not that difficult to repair. I just might have to go for it!
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what are the symptoms of a blown turbo, and what does it take to replace? Will there be motor damage too?
thanks
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I'm looking at a 2007 outback wagon, what are some watch-outs for this model year? This is a private original owner with ~ 60,000 miles. Appreciate any comments.
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OK, that doesn't sound to difficult. Now does anybody have suggestions for finding a replacement transmission? Local pull-a-part lists for ~ $100. Local junkyard ~ $800.
Thanks for your input, I'm almost ready to get it started.
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If Markus was on this coast that would be a deal! All joking aside, is that the best method (pull motor)?
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OK, anybody have any advice for when this doesn't work? I have a 99 obw that is slipping very bad. How difficult is it to replace a tranny? I have done head gaskets on another car so I know my way around a bit. Any advice will be appreciated.
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Does anyone have a good procedure for checking valve clearance and adjusting it if needed? I understand they take shims, is there a good place on-line that I can purchase a shim pack?
Thanks
Scott
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I was testing it with it plugged in. No matter what I did I always had 5 volts. I did get the codes read and it said "TPS low input". So does that mean the throttle position sensor is bad?
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I checked the tooth count on the belt before using the marks, also did a count after pulling the pin on the tensioner. Car was running ~90%, seemed like it had a slight miss.
I still can't figure out why I always have 5 volts on the tps. I really don't think it is a timing issue at this point.
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Reinstalled timing belt, this time used the marks on the belts, not really sure why I did not the first time.
Anyway, running "so-so", thought it was good, but ended up getting a CEL. Have not had a chance to pull the codes. Adjusted TPS about the same. Checked tps voltage, get 5 volts all the time. Checked resistance of TPS and it changes with the movement of the throttle. At this point it will not idle, just stumbles and stalls.
Any suggestions?
Should have codes Sunday afternoon.
Thanks!
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well the good news is it is up and running. Took it for a test drive today for ~15 miles. Heat gauge never went above 1/2. The bad news, I think it is a "little" bit out of time. Going to pull the front cover off tomorrow night.
I want to thank everyone for all of their help!
Thanks
Scott
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Just thought I would post a quick update. I got the heads back tonight, the shop said one of them was warped (.006), from what I heard the acceptable limit is .002. So this could explain why the hg's did not look bad but it was overheating. Now I wonder what caused the head to warp, heat no doubt, but what caused it to oveheat to start? My plan is to spend Saturday trying to get it back together, will update this when I get done.
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OK....heads are at the shop, they con provide "Felpro" gaskets there, are they ok or should I go straight to Subaru? The shop is also doing a "valve job" so they need the valve seals in order to complete.
Car did not overheat much went water pump went. Yes it did get hot, but it was hotter last week than when pump failed.
Is there a way to identify the original factory gaskets?
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I bought the car in the end of March, it had ~ 124,000 miles on it at that point, now I am up to ~ 133,000. The water pump went aroud the end of May, replaced that and the timing belt at that point. Sending the heads out today to be pressure tested and resurfaced. I guess then put it all back together and see what happens. Unless they find something when they are testing the heads I'm gonna be a little nervous until I run it down the road.
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ok, now I am worried. Got the motor out yesterday, wasn't to bad, pretty much as explained on here. Pulled heads off today and I CANNOT find any sign of a BLOWN HG! Gaskets appear to be 3 layers, thin metal on each side over some other material. One thing I did find was one spark plug on the passenger side was loose! The cavity that the plug sits down in was black compared to the other 3 being clean. Plugs are champions, which I have heard good and bad about that, and appear to be ~ 42 - 44 on the gap. Obviously I have to push on (heads rebuilt/tested) does anyone have any ideas?
other suggestions I have heard:
replace plastic seperator plate with metal
retighten oil pump backing bolts
seal in the front of the transmission
front & rear main seal
new oem thermostat
new NGK spark plugs
oil/filter
comments?
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that is my intention (replace hg), I just think it will be easier to pull the engine to replace them. looks like front crank seal might be starting to leak a little too. I would rather just pull the engine so I can get at it to work on it. Got a "estimate" today of $200 - $250 to have the heads resurfaced, pressure tested, and valves done. Have not checked on gaskets yet. I just figured I might as well do everything while I am at it. Any watch-outs or "now is a good time to do that" that anyone knows about let me now. Hopefully it will be good for another 100,000.
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changed radiator cap, drove about 5 miles and heat gaugetook off like a rocket. Looks like I have to face the fact the hg is blown. On my way to retrieve a lift to pull the motor.
I want to thank everyone for there help and suggestions. I'm sure I will be back for more!
Fans run all the time and temp gauge does not move
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Thank you! I knew it was something simple. I could not even see that one underneath everything. Plugged it in and it works like a charm! Thanks to everyone for there help!!!!!