88whitecat
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Posts posted by 88whitecat
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How long have you owned the car? When was the motor swapped? What year is the motor? Do you know who did the work and when it was done?
The reason I ask is in a 96 OBW only the 5-speed had the 2.2 The autos came through with the 2.5. Double check and report back.
IF you do indeed have a 2.2 the 95-96 were non-interference, the 97-up are interference but people have gotten lucky with them.
Sorry but MY first thoughts were of an unknown mileage motor bieng dropped in without doing any of the maintanance (like a timing belt and idlers) by the previous owner then unloading it in a hurry.
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If you don't want to spend any $$ and already have one of each then you can take both of them apart and reassemble to get a good one in the configuration you need. Did that to one of mine about 3 months ago, took like 10 minutes.
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@98 Now see I'm in west springfield, a stones throw from you (though I gotta say the only time I go into pittsfield is to grab lunch at Teo's) and I can think of at least 6 other active members in the general are of western mass/northern CT.
@dave To be fair, in the user cp there is a drop down menu for state that you have to select when you sign up. Before the board got hacked and went down causing the change in theme, the state was displayed for everyone. Now it dispays only if you add it with the city on that type in field.
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I highly doubt they will be the same however it will work out fine.
IIRC You will just wind up ignoring the pipe under the manifold on the 96 engine that goes from the tank line (near fuel filter) to the canister in the front. Instead you hook the tank line right to the purge solenoid using some new hose.
Schematically and functionally it will be the the same as the under hood label. Thats the important part. If done right no cel.
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I think I would start by looking at the connection points, both at the battery terminals and the grounds. Look for loose or dirty. I have the same issue but it only started after I repaced a worn out battery clamp (wouldn't hold tight anymore) and I couldn't get the crimp tight enough on the new one. It wiggles just a little and would separate if I yanked on it so I just dont do that.
BUt, like yours, first thing in the morning if you try to crank it doesn't do much. I put my hi beams,seat heater, rear defroster and blower fan on for about a minute or two then try. It might chug a little but always starts.
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Moszt common source of mystery grinding I have run into is timing belt pulleys. they often start making noise before failing.
+1
when my lower TB idler went a couple months ago it made the same kind of noises.
In the course of a 45 minute trip I went from a quiet engine, to a faint noise when accerating, to a faint constant noise, then finally to a clear loud noise
My noise was definitely from the front of the motor when I pulled over to check so i figured bearings in one of the accessories. Took both belts off (on the side of the highway, I ALWAYS carry tools w/ me!) and the noise was still there. Drove very gently home and when I got the TB cover of the idler just fell out in pieces. The ball bearings had been flung everywhere inside the cover and there where metal shards all over. There was almost no tension on the belt and a lot of cuts in the belt too. It's a 98 so I got really lucky it didn't jump time.
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Either here on the USMB or over on the outback board someone used a generic step bumper receiver mounted to the front of his OB for a winch attachment.
Found a link go here
I think he is around and hopefully he chimes in.
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On the 97 the tank pipe goes straight to the purge solenoid through the pipe that is underneath the manifold. The 96 goes from the tank pipe to the canister then to the purge solenoid.
What you have to do is disconnect the pipe under the manifold from the solenoid and ignore it from then on. Using some vaccuum tubing and a butt type connector go straight from the tank pipe the canister (tank port) Then with a shorter piece of tubing go from the canister (purge port) to the purge solenoid. There is a one way valve inline on oneside or the other I dont remember which. You may also need a couple of tees so that the map and pressure exchange solenoid are tied in right. It depend how much of the 96 vac hoses were pulled out. Ultimately it should be schematically identical to the under hood label.
Can maybe post pix after work.
P.S. Dont use cheap connectors! I used some advanced auto universal ones where you cut off the smaller sizes you dont need, but they were a muti-piece modular component type of constuction that fell apart and caused vaccuum leaks
PPS use 96 ECM
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importing would be cost prohibitive I think.
Manual adjustment is fine. Heat doesn't matter really but I would expect it in a seat with the other options.
Lumbar is a must. lumbar with height like my outback would be ok.
A power height/forward/back with manual lumbar would be better.
Best would be a powered lumbar/height/forward&back but I doubt thats out there for these cars.
Im trying to slog through the specs pages on cars101 but its taking forever!
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My wifes grandparents are looking to replace one of their cars in the next year or so and are leaning toward a subaru.
One of their requirements is it have an adjustable passengers seat. adjustable lumbar at the minimum but fully adjustable would be preferable.
Did any legacy or impreza models/trims after ~04 come like this? ( I wouldnt know I stay within 95-99 )
If not are there seats from other years/models/trims that would swap in with ease that have these features?
Thanks much!
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There is a good pdf on this site here. I hope it helps.
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Based on my experience yesterday and what dash found I think that we are saying they are different. When I reattempt the job probably wednesday or thursday I will compare them side by side. Count the splines on each and measure the overall diameter to conclude the matter.
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The stubs did not fit into the diff. The stubs do not remove from the rear axle.
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Thanks Dash for the confirmation. It wasn't too bad. Despite alot of new england rust it came apart pretty easy. When I go to do this again at least everything is already broken free and and will go quickly.
Its also nice that we have a heated, drive-in warehouse where I work so I'm not freezing my balls off outside.
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It is in fact different. It had a 4.44 and I am putiing in a 4.11 to match the tranny that now resides in her. The trouble is that after dropping the old diff, the axle stubs are just stopping with 1" left to go sliding into the (98)diff. According to Opposed Forces the axles are the same from 94 thru 98 for nearly all legacys and nothing was damaged in removal.
I should mention that when I gave up I reinstalled the old diff and it went like butter!
Had I known there was a difference ahead of time I would have grabbed the axles I have in the garage that are known to fit and brought them with me to where I was working on the car.
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From the searcing I've done, rear axles are the same for both Legacys and outbacks 95-99. I am swapping the rear diff in my 96 outback with one from a 98 legacy L yet the axle stubs are not sliding into the new diff? Was there a spline count change or something else that would cause this? Or do I just need to give it a harder push?
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looking for some help with my engine swap .I have a 96 out back that had a 2.5 l I put a 98 2.2 l in the 96 and i keep on tripping the check engine light . its keep on spitting out evap silenoid and the knock sensor i notice that my problem might be that i dont have a egr valve on the 98 2.2 but do on the 96 2.5 is there any way that keep this motor in this car and stop tripping out check engines code I change the brain out of the 98 and put in the 96 and got a whole new set of codes mainly fuel realated codes thanks jack
Did you retain the evap canister in the front passengers side? IF so did you run a piece of hose from the pipe the comes up from the firewall next to the fuel filter over to the Canister?
The 96 2.5 should have had a pipe under the manifold with hose on either end that connected the pipe by the filter to the canister, which the 98 2.2 does not due to having the enhanced evap system tucked up behind the rear pass qtr panel.
Just make sure the way it is, is how it is described on the underhood label.
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I bought the 97 legacy in September of 08.The car had 300k on it. The clutch was worn nearly beyond use (but it was also original) and it was coming up on needing a timing belt within 10k. It also needed tires and brakes. I bought the car fom the original owner and he provided all service history from the time it was new. dealer serviced the first couple of years then the receipts tend towards independant repair shops in the Sturbridge area. Hadn't managed to do anything to it before some slick roads in November did the car in. I stripped the engine trans and rear diff and sent it the boneyard.
With your timing kit and a couple of new oil seals I think you would be good to go.
I'll try to get at it tonight to to give it a once over and make sure I haven't left anything important out.
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Would but would be more work due to switching over the sensors and manifold. (90-94 being obd1 and 96 onward obd2. Any non egr 2.2 except the 95 unless you get the y-pipe with it.
Where in Mass is the car? Im in springfield and have a 97 2.2 out of a MT legacy in my garage.
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The clusters are completely interchangable, the light socket is there, you just need to put a bulb in before you put the cluster in. IIRC there is a light on the mt cluster that is un-needed for AT so just grab that one. The speedo might need to be swapped. The 96 goes to 140 and the 97 only goes to 120. I dont remember if the speed sensors were different or if the difference is in the speedo head alone.
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it does roll. it was parked on a slight grade and it rolled a little when I took the P-brake off.
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I went to look at a 97 Legacy brighton today. It was a 5mt. Hes letting it go for scrap value which around here isnt much right now. He said he drove down from VT to MA for thanksgiving and the trans wasnt engaging properly said he thought the clutch was gone.
I started it up and aside from a minor exhaust leak it started and ran ok. I tried putting it in gear and found the shifter would move freely left to right (neutral) but would not move into ANY gear. (i didn't try to strong-arm it in)
Is this an indication of shifter bushings being bad and his engagement issue was actually the trans not being fully in gear? The car is a rust bucket and I pose the question mostly to satisfy my cuiosity and improve my diagnostic skills not so much because I want to buy the car.
UNLESS someone here is looking for a cheap 2.2. I could buy and palletize for shipment. We have a loading dock where I work. Then I could scrap whats left of the car.
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I'm sorry Tcspeer, but in my experience on a 5MT the stubs cannot fall or even pull out. Having tried using every mechanical advantage to do so when I buggered a spring pin changing an axle, I asked on either this or another forum whether it was even possible to do and I was told no.
It is possible, easy even, to pull stubs out of the 4EAT, which I'm assuming you're more familliar with.
Simpreza, if you compress the boot alot trying to fit the axle in, some air will be forced out. When its all together the boot will look caved in on itself at the proper length.
215/70 r 15 studded tires for my OBW?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Hey on my 96obw I am currently running a Kumho Solus KR21 tire in a slightly larger 215/75/r15 size.(new last month) I have no clearance issues and the rear spring perch is the tightest spot but I can fit my fingertips between(3/8 to 1/2 inch). I had a pair of the 215/75's on the rear only before I put the new tires on all the way around and there was no abnormal wear on the tread or any wear/rubmarks on the sidewall to idicate interference when they were removed. They do certainly fill the wheel wells a little more and I could no longer fit my foot in to use the tire as a step when loading and unloading the roof racks.
Long story short: Run them without worries.