88whitecat

Hey on my 96obw I am currently running a Kumho Solus KR21 tire in a slightly larger 215/75/r15 size.(new last month) I have no clearance issues and the rear spring perch is the tightest spot but I can fit my fingertips between(3/8 to 1/2 inch). I had a pair of the 215/75's on the rear only before I put the new tires on all the way around and there was no abnormal wear on the tread or any wear/rubmarks on the sidewall to idicate interference when they were removed. They do certainly fill the wheel wells a little more and I could no longer fit my foot in to use the tire as a step when loading and unloading the roof racks. Long story short: Run them without worries.

How long have you owned the car? When was the motor swapped? What year is the motor? Do you know who did the work and when it was done? The reason I ask is in a 96 OBW only the 5-speed had the 2.2 The autos came through with the 2.5. Double check and report back. IF you do indeed have a 2.2 the 95-96 were non-interference, the 97-up are interference but people have gotten lucky with them. Sorry but MY first thoughts were of an unknown mileage motor bieng dropped in without doing any of the maintanance (like a timing belt and idlers) by the previous owner then unloading it in a hurry.

If you don't want to spend any $$ and already have one of each then you can take both of them apart and reassemble to get a good one in the configuration you need. Did that to one of mine about 3 months ago, took like 10 minutes.

@98 Now see I'm in west springfield, a stones throw from you (though I gotta say the only time I go into pittsfield is to grab lunch at Teo's) and I can think of at least 6 other active members in the general are of western mass/northern CT. @dave To be fair, in the user cp there is a drop down menu for state that you have to select when you sign up. Before the board got hacked and went down causing the change in theme, the state was displayed for everyone. Now it dispays only if you add it with the city on that type in field.

I highly doubt they will be the same however it will work out fine. IIRC You will just wind up ignoring the pipe under the manifold on the 96 engine that goes from the tank line (near fuel filter) to the canister in the front. Instead you hook the tank line right to the purge solenoid using some new hose. Schematically and functionally it will be the the same as the under hood label. Thats the important part. If done right no cel.

I think I would start by looking at the connection points, both at the battery terminals and the grounds. Look for loose or dirty. I have the same issue but it only started after I repaced a worn out battery clamp (wouldn't hold tight anymore) and I couldn't get the crimp tight enough on the new one. It wiggles just a little and would separate if I yanked on it so I just dont do that. BUt, like yours, first thing in the morning if you try to crank it doesn't do much. I put my hi beams,seat heater, rear defroster and blower fan on for about a minute or two then try. It might chug a little but always starts.

+1 when my lower TB idler went a couple months ago it made the same kind of noises. In the course of a 45 minute trip I went from a quiet engine, to a faint noise when accerating, to a faint constant noise, then finally to a clear loud noise My noise was definitely from the front of the motor when I pulled over to check so i figured bearings in one of the accessories. Took both belts off (on the side of the highway, I ALWAYS carry tools w/ me!) and the noise was still there. Drove very gently home and when I got the TB cover of the idler just fell out in pieces. The ball bearings had been flung everywhere inside the cover and there where metal shards all over. There was almost no tension on the belt and a lot of cuts in the belt too. It's a 98 so I got really lucky it didn't jump time.

Either here on the USMB or over on the outback board someone used a generic step bumper receiver mounted to the front of his OB for a winch attachment. Found a link go here I think he is around and hopefully he chimes in.

On the 97 the tank pipe goes straight to the purge solenoid through the pipe that is underneath the manifold. The 96 goes from the tank pipe to the canister then to the purge solenoid. What you have to do is disconnect the pipe under the manifold from the solenoid and ignore it from then on. Using some vaccuum tubing and a butt type connector go straight from the tank pipe the canister (tank port) Then with a shorter piece of tubing go from the canister (purge port) to the purge solenoid. There is a one way valve inline on oneside or the other I dont remember which. You may also need a couple of tees so that the map and pressure exchange solenoid are tied in right. It depend how much of the 96 vac hoses were pulled out. Ultimately it should be schematically identical to the under hood label. Can maybe post pix after work. P.S. Dont use cheap connectors! I used some advanced auto universal ones where you cut off the smaller sizes you dont need, but they were a muti-piece modular component type of constuction that fell apart and caused vaccuum leaks PPS use 96 ECM

importing would be cost prohibitive I think. Manual adjustment is fine. Heat doesn't matter really but I would expect it in a seat with the other options. Lumbar is a must. lumbar with height like my outback would be ok. A power height/forward/back with manual lumbar would be better. Best would be a powered lumbar/height/forward&back but I doubt thats out there for these cars. Im trying to slog through the specs pages on cars101 but its taking forever!

My wifes grandparents are looking to replace one of their cars in the next year or so and are leaning toward a subaru. One of their requirements is it have an adjustable passengers seat. adjustable lumbar at the minimum but fully adjustable would be preferable. Did any legacy or impreza models/trims after ~04 come like this? ( I wouldnt know I stay within 95-99 ) If not are there seats from other years/models/trims that would swap in with ease that have these features? Thanks much!

There is a good pdf on this site here. I hope it helps.

Based on my experience yesterday and what dash found I think that we are saying they are different. When I reattempt the job probably wednesday or thursday I will compare them side by side. Count the splines on each and measure the overall diameter to conclude the matter.

The stubs did not fit into the diff. The stubs do not remove from the rear axle.

Thanks Dash for the confirmation. It wasn't too bad. Despite alot of new england rust it came apart pretty easy. When I go to do this again at least everything is already broken free and and will go quickly. Its also nice that we have a heated, drive-in warehouse where I work so I'm not freezing my balls off outside.